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need some advice on fixing a black dye job

On the Charlie Ochs DVD he shows how to get blacker than black. Dye first with navy blue alcohol dye, the black oil dye. It makes the blackest I have seen or done
 
I second Michael's advice. I visited Charlie's work shop and he showed me how he first dyes the leather with a blue dye, they the black, worked very well. John
 
Funky how that works, but it really works! More important than ever as dye's went up again this last month. Its an uphill battle.
 
This is a thorough doc explaining my experience with 'groon.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13506243

I bought my wool from Harbor Freight. The reaction worked perfectly after sitting for a couple of hours. In retrospect I probably should have removed the wool after those first couple of hours as it worked great but didn't yet have the horrible qualities that mostly made me decide against the whole idea. Burning the wool and waiting forever were wholly unnecessary in my experience, although I'm not prepared to dispute anyone else's experience with the stuff.
 
Yes, the pro covers everything. Dye with a dobber fast in circels, one time left, one time right so all of the fiber is soaked and then the last time in long strokes. Let the dye soake in and dry. When dry rub it with a cloth so all of the exess is gone than Canuba cream. You can finish with Fiebings Resoline or beewax, what you like most.
 
The professional oil dye from Fiebings is the only one that does not bleech over time, its colorproof. The normal Fiebings leather dye isn´t, also Eco Flo isn´t colorproof. Pitty is that you have not so many different colors. Fiebings took the color white several years ago out of production so it is realy hard to mix and make light colors.
 
I tried buying navy blue from Tandy and they said they aren't carrying colors anymore, wtf! I called Springfield leather and told them what I wanted to do and they told me to try the USMC again, wipe it off after it dries and then mix some more USMC with neatsfoot oil for the final finish. I'm still going to order the pro oil because it seems like it would just be easier.
 
Tandy carries very little outside of their water based eco-blo.

You're on the right track buying from SLC. I've bought chems from ST Leather and have been pleased. Buying from them is odd since you have to email/fax/phone your order. They also seem to fill generic bottles from larger bottles. They glue a paper label that they scan from the bulk container and affix it to the small bottle. Weird, but they charge very reasonable prices. I've read that some craftsmen do all of their chem shopping from them. I'll likely buy chems from them, but the rest of their stuff is either Tandy or unknown (to me). I can't remember what all I ordered from them but if you just need basic tools they are priced below Tandy.
 
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