Need some advice on handle material

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Burl Source

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Dec 7, 2008
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I just had a wood stabilizing system built so I can start producing stabilized blocks and scales. Right now I am cutting up a bunch of burl for my first batch tomorrow. My question to the knife makers; Should I cut all the blocks to the standard size of 5"x1.5"x1" and scales 3/8" thick? Or are there other dimensions you look for but have a hard time finding. I am starting with full burls so I can cut any size I want. Your opinions are appreciated. I will be going to the Blade show in Portland this September and want to make sure I have the right stuff. Thanks!
 
XL sized bowie-blocks can be really hard to find. My handles tend to have a fair bit of drop and a flared butt - standard size bowie blocks simply aren't big enough. I have found a few in the 6" x 3" x 2" range, but wish I could find more. The again, I haven't exactly made a ton of knives, so my preferences should not be taken as indicative of any kind of market trend.

You might also want to try posting in the knifemakers forum to get more responses from that particular crowd.

Roger
 
Thanks for the advice. I will make sure to cut some big for people who make the bigger bowie knives.
 
Hi,
First, good luck with the stabilization.
Been there, done that. Lots of work.

I was in the handle material business for 13 years.
Here are my suggestions:
  • Divide your potential customers into several groups according to the type of knife they make
  • Fixed blade guys will use the blocks for big bowie's and smaller carry knives. Your big bowie size will be a smaller group. The smaller fixed blades, like small drop points, etc., will take a smaller block like 3-1/2" x 1" x 1-1/2" and they will be like the bowie guys, not so many. But you can cut some large and some small and have them on hand to see what sells.
  • Then there are the fixed blade guys who use the slabs. 5" x 2" x 3/8" and 4-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 3/8"
  • You will have some guys who use 3-1/2" x 1-1/4" x 1/4" for smaller fixed blades or those with two bolsters.
  • Then don't forget your folder guys. Have small amounts of things like 3" x 1" x 1/4" and 3-1/2" x 1" x 1/4" but only small amounts and make sure this is THE BEST material with no flaws because there's no room for a flaw on a folder.
  • If you want to be comprehensive, try to have small quantities of scales in the 'tween sizes and thin sizes for your slip joint guys. But you only need small amounts, not bins and bins full of scales.
  • For any of your potential customers, sand and polish only ONE side of the scales and you may want to sand and polish the blocks so they can see what they are getting. Don't spare the extra little bit of time to prepare it so they can see what it really is. The time spent is worth it.
  • Remember that your bigger blocks don't get the penetration that the smaller stuff gets.
  • Check the other wood suppliers to see what sizes they are offering too. That can be a big help as the market changes alot.
  • Use every scrap. Make scales, blocks of every size. Remember that you can always try to sell some wood to Queen or Great Eastern if you accumulate alot of small stuff. Don't throw anything away. Scales for pocket knives and production companies don't need to be polished.
  • Make sure your measurements are consistent and your thicknesses are accurate.
  • Match your scales carefully. Don't make your customers do it.
  • Don't put anything out on your table that isn't OMG wonderful. You can put the plain stuff on sale or give it away to newbies. Get a reputation for only having the best stuff right away.

I hope this helps. If you think of any other questions, feel free to contact me. I'll help if I can.

Best of luck!!

Tim
 
1 1/4 X 2 X 5 1/2...or larger.....I buy blocks only...as large as I can get...

Also sometimes process wood myself as it's sometimes seems to

be the only way to get it cut at the angles I want.....Example:

Black Walnut crotch wood.....most will cut it to yeild the greatest number of

blocks.....I'll cut so that the grain/feather is the same on both sides....fewer

pieces/higher quality (IMO)....
 
I'm with Russ all the way.
I haven't bought a 1 X 1 1/2 X 5 block in more than a few years.
When I send off wood to be stabilized I send 1 1/8 X 2 X 6.
I can always make something small out of something large. Not the reverse.
Never did understand cutting up a perfectly good block of wood into scales. Seems counter-productive to me. As soon as you do that you immediately lose the hidden tang guy as a customer.
If a maker can't cut up a block of wood into scales he needs to find a new line of work.
By simply adding a 1/4 inch in all directions you can gain customers you would not have otherwise.
Tim had some great advice as well from another perspective.
You've got a lot of bases to cover, and his would be some decent footsteps to follow.
 
Karl,
Thanks for the good advice. I lean toward keeping things oversized myself. I think I will be cutting a mix of sizes but will keep most blocks closer to your dimensions.
 
In answer to the question from Russ about what species.
I will be starting with buckeye burl, a variety of redwood (lace burl, root burl & curly) maple burl, figured claro walnut and some spalted stuff. All the wood we have comes from Oregon and California. As time allows I will be adding other northwest woods.
 
for me i like the blocks over sized as said you can always cut down but not add to

would be great to see some nice blocks in the1.75x1.25x 6
with a thickness of 1.25 i can skim off a 1/5 for on a folder later or for one of my neckers
i would still have a thickness good for both hidden tang and to cut once more for full tang
the 6 inch part is cause i make razors and 5 inch just does not cut it for a full sized razor
 
If you can cut a nice piece of Buckeye burl to 1-3/8" x 1-5/8" x 5", I'll buy one from you. PM or e-mail me if you're interested.
 
I have several buckeye blocks already cut that I will be stabilizing. Do you like a lot of blue or more contrasting blue and gold?
 
I'll let you decide - whatever looks sharpest. This is going to end up on a $600 Randall knife, so pick something good.
 
It will be using a dry vacuum pressure impregnation system with resinol 90c as the stabilizing agent. It is a custom built system arriving tomorrow. I will be doing some test batches first then providing stabilized blocks and scales for sale. It is supposed to give complete penetration of the stabilizing agent which is then heat cured with a hardness rating of 76 on the shore d hardness scale.
 
Thank You to everyone who gave advice on the handle material. I was amazed at how many people were willing to help and how friendly everyone was. I'll be starting the stabilizing on Monday. Once in a while when I do a really bizarre piece I will make it available in the for sale section. I will probably focus on the big fighter and bowie handles. If anyone ever needs something special for an important project, let me know and I will find a piece that will do your knife proud.
Thanks again. Mark
 
I think you will really like the buckeye I am sending. I picked out a good one that will do your knife proud. Thanks for everything.
 
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