Need some advice on handle material

Burl Source

Burl Source

Joined
Dec 7, 2008
Messages
7,187
I just had a wood stabilizing system built so I can start producing stabilized blocks and scales. Right now I am cutting up a bunch of burl for my first batch tomorrow. My question to the knife makers; Should I cut all the blocks to the standard size of 5"x1.5"x1" and scales 3/8" thick? Or are there other dimensions you look for but have a hard time finding. I am starting with whole burls so I can cut any size I want. Your opinions are appreciated. I will be going to the Blade show in Portland this September and want to make sure I have the right stuff. Thanks!
 
For me personally I think those sizes cover most needs. However, cutting some blocks larger, similar to what Alpha Knife Supply is doing with their "bowie blocks", may be a good idea. Good luck with the stabilizing.

-Mike
 
I want to second that. Great looking, slightly oversized blocks for large fighters and bowies are hard to come by. For those who like to sculpt the butt ends with a large flare, the big blocks fill the bill.

Fred
 
I agree with Mike and Fred. Sometimes you need a bit more length, and other times the extra can make for nice spacers. (I like to make "two-tone" handles like walnut with a maple spacer or vice versa.) Generally speaking though, the dimensions you listed are fine.
 
I personally dislike that block size.....too small. The only size I will purchase must be at least 1 3/4" top to bottom, and far prefer the "bowie blocks" that Alpha knife supply sells. For me a 1.5" block simply does not offer the ability to install the kind of "drop" that I want on the rear of my handles.

Because I find the common 1.5" blocks to be too small, I often time will purchase larger chunks of wood and cut them to sizes that best suit my needs. However, it "Bowie Blocks" were offered I would be inclined to purchase those.
 
When I have 6X1.5X2" blocks they sell out like crazy.
I would suggest you cut the scales from blocks after stabilization. It not only cuts warp down a lot, but makes for a good clean surface. I stabilize the blocks for scales ( WSSI) at 5.5X1.25X1.75 usually, and trim the block to 5X1X1.5". Then I slice it down the center, making two bookmatched scales .375+" thick.

I cut most regular blocks about 6X2X2" and trim the sides clean on the table saw. The resulting blocks vary a bit, but average 5.5X1.5X1.75.
Stacy
 
Thanks everybody for the advice. Most of what I will be working with right away is oversized so I will keep it that way instead of trimming it down. A while back I had a customer who got several maple burl blocks with the natural burl pin surface at the butt of the block. Said he was going to leave the end like that on a bowie. Does anyone think it sounds like a good idea to cut some blocks like that? Or do you think his idea was just an oddity?
 
Burl Source said:
A while back I had a customer who got several maple burl blocks with the natural burl pin surface at the butt of the block.
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Please excuse my ignorance, but I don't understand what you mean by "burl pin surface". Does this mean the bark? That would be gorgeous on the butt of a knife if you knew how to finish/stabilize it properly so the bark didn't fall off. (I think I may be way off-base here... but that would look really cool.)

In any case, I've found the end-grain of figured or burl woods often looks just as pretty and interesting as the grain viewed from the side of the block/scale. I generally make my hidden-tang knives with a 3/4 or 7/8 tang, so the steel is hidden and the butt of the handle exhibits that end-grain and showcases the natural "flow" of the wood. Even on plain-figured woods, it appeals to me. The only problem I've found is that of course, end-grain will get a lot darker when stained or oiled; that doesn't seem to be much of an issue with the stabilized wood I've worked with.

Regardless, not many makers are going to complain if the scales or blocks are bit over-sized. As long as you can keep your waste under control, and make a fair profit on the pieces you sell, I say go a bit bigger as the gentlemen above said.
 
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Most people are not familiar with burl because they are pretty rare and there can be a lot of variations. With western big leaf maple burls, the burl forms on the tree usually as a round bulging growth off the trunk. This is a mutation where 100s of dormant shoots are all in a compact area. Under the bark of the burl the outer surface has 100s of little points or pins poking out like on a porcupine fish but really close together. The pins usually stick out about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.

I agree with you about end grain wood. It can form some pretty interesting patterns. I have cut some end grain figured maple and walnut that looked great. End grain spalted woods can look really wild as well.
 
Hey Mark the Burl Man,

If you offer quality stabilized burl at a good price you can't go wrong. There will probably be buyers for any and all standard sizes. Just take a look at the For Sale forum and you'll see pretty much every piece put up for sale gets scooped right up.

(Of course, for this inside tip, you'll be giving me a gratuitous discount, no?) ;)

All the best, Phil
 
Thanks for clarifying that, Burl Source. I've worked with several examples of stabilized burl wood (various species) but haven't seen the pins you describe. It sounds pretty cool; do you have any pics to post?

I'm definitely a huge fan of burled and figured woods and have no problem paying extra for nice, pretty stabilized pieces. It's so dang beautiful... I've literally mesmerized non-knife-knut friends by handing them a chunk of burled or figured wood and just letting them "trip out" on the depth of the figure. As to spalted pieces... to me, the "holy grail" of handle materials is spalted birdseye/curly wood, regardless of species.

Farmer Phil said:
If you offer quality stabilized burl at a good price you can't go wrong. There will probably be buyers for any and all standard sizes. Just take a look at the For Sale forum and you'll see pretty much every piece put up for sale gets scooped right up.
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Yup! By all means, if you have a good source, pony up for a Gold or higher membership here and put your material up for sale. Phil is 100% right; high-quality, highly-figured wood sells QUICK in the materials/tools forum. :)
 
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James_Terrio said:
...I'm definitely a huge fan of burled and figured woods and have no problem paying extra for nice, pretty stabilized pieces...
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Shhhhh! When am I going to get it through to you guys to quit letting the suppliers know stuff like this?! :foot::p
 
James_Terrio said:
Thanks for clarifying that, Burl Source. I've worked with several examples of stabilized burl wood (various species) but haven't seen the pins you describe. It sounds pretty cool; do you have any pics to post?

I'm definitely a huge fan of burled and figured woods and have no problem paying extra for nice, pretty stabilized pieces. It's so dang beautiful... I've literally mesmerized non-knife-knut friends by handing them a chunk of burled or figured wood and just letting them "trip out" on the depth of the figure. As to spalted pieces... to me, the "holy grail" of handle materials is spalted birdseye/curly wood, regardless of species.



Yup! By all means, if you have a good source, pony up for a Gold or higher membership here and put your material up for sale. Phil is 100% right; high-quality, highly-figured wood sells QUICK in the materials/tools forum. :)
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I am trying to sign up for a platinum but the automatic system won't take amex or paypal. Does anyone know if it is possible using one of these two payment sources? That's what I use so I can track my expenses.
 
Burl Source said:
I am trying to sign up for a platinum but the automatic system won't take amex or paypal. Does anyone know if it is possible using one of these two payment sources? That's what I use so I can track my expenses.
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Maybe you could buy a money order with the card and use that?
 
I am trying to sign up for a platinum but the automatic system won't take amex or paypal. Does anyone know if it is possible using one of these two payment sources? That's what I use so I can track my expenses.
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I think the system takes Paypal.
 
The website appears to be using a system with the 3 payment options being Visa, Mastercard and Discover. Oh well. Sent an email and waiting response. I'll get this done one way or another. Thanks to everyone for the great advice.
 
If you wanted, you could send me the money plus fees though paypal, and I could order it for you. And for future reference, I use the paypal debit card, and it works great.

This way wouldn't be automated for you, but Spark would have it done in a day or two.
 
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