Need some advice on how to get this motor running

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Jun 11, 2015
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7
I have been planning on building a grinder and recently picked up this gem at a surplus place for $20.
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It is a 3hp 3450rpm motor 208-230v 3-phase.

Not entirely sure if it even works but I couldn't pass it up for that price.

I understand that because it is a 3-phase, I will need to get a VFD to run it in my garage. What should I be looking for? More importantly, what is a decent option that doesn't break the bank?
 
I can't help much as I have never done it, but I might suggest taking a better image of the tag with model numbers and such. It may be important to the ones that can help. If I were in your shoes, that is the info I would start with for researching the web for details on hooking power to it.
 
I'll have to measure it to be sure, but I believe it is a keyed 5/8 shaft. There is just a gear installed that will be a joy to remove considering that rust.
 
I'll have to measure it to be sure, but I believe it is a keyed 5/8 shaft. There is just a gear installed that will be a joy to remove considering that rust.


My money's also on 7/8"

If you have a bad time removing it and the shaft is badly corroded.

Consider taking the motor apart and having the shaft turned down to 5/8" so the common pulleys fit.

It should be cheap, if you find the right person
 
My mistake, when I searched the m3559t I got directed to baldor's page for the m3559. So it is indeed a 7/8.
 
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I have a baldor 3hp on my grinder. It's a good motor but count is right it's probably 7/8 shaft. Not a big deal if you're using a pulley system like the kmg uses. That's what I have and got a pulley for it at tractor supply for 7$. A drive wheel is a different story.

I might be concerned its TE and not TEFC unless I'm missing something. That means it's not fan cooled. If so overheating it may be a concern. For $25 that may not matter.

-Clint
 
It's fan cooled. That's a fan shroud on the back end of it.
I have that same exact motor in my parts pile.
Inside the connection box will be numbered wires. Follow the motor plate diagram for low voltage, connecting wires 6,5, and 4 together with a wire nut.
Then connect 9, 3, and one of the 3 hot wires coming from your VFD.
Connect 8, 2, and another hot wire from the VFD.
Connect 7, 1, and the third hot sire from the VFD.

Doesn't matter which hot wire from the VFD gets hooked to what pair, but if the motor spins reverse of what you want when you power it up, just switch any of the two hot wires with their pairs of wires from the motor and it will reverse the rotation.

The KBAC-29 VFD would work with it, or the TECO-fm50-203. Either one will take a single phase input. There are plenty of other brands that make similar VFDs.

You should also run a ground wire from the motor frame screw inside the hookup box, to the ground wire terminal on the VFD, which should be hooked to the ground wire of the 1 phase 220V circuit feeding the VFD. That way a fault will have a clear path back to the neutral/ground bar of your breaker box.
 
You can run it as an idler (no load) on single phase just to check it's operation. You will have to spin it up manually.
 
A three horse power, 3 phase grinder . . . for making knives ? ? ?

Killing ants with atom bombs.
 
I use a 3 hp, 3 phase grinder for making knives, too... I manage to stall it once in a while. Bob Engnath had a 5hp Burr King!
 
I'm a hot rod guy, so there's never enough HP!!!
Got that right!

When I started looking into motors for this, I wasn't planning on anything more than 2hp. So I'm definitely not going to complain having more power for a ridiculously lower price.

Now that you mention it, that place did have some 10 and 20hp motors...
 
Oregonblademaker also does a nylon drive wheel with a 7/8 bore (on ebay)
What are the tradeoffs to using those wheels vs aluminum ones?

I did see both the nylon and full aluminum versions are available there in 7/8.
 
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