Need some advice on taps

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May 23, 2007
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I am planning on doing a linerlock and picked up a Procunier 1E tapping head. Now I need to get some taps for it. I know the most common sizes for linerlocks are 0-80, 1-72 and 2-56 but there are so many different variations -cutting, roll, gun, coated, uncoated, HSS, cobalt, carbide? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Lon
 
Personally I like gun taps (spiral point) they are designed for use in production setups and have a leading cut that pushes chips out in front of the tap so you do not have to back up a quarter turn every three quarter turns to clear chips. The bad thing about them is they are a little less forgiving of out of alignment starts than your basic home shop tap. I usually use a tap wrench with a center divot on the back and tap between centers (I do most of my tapping by hand on my metal lathe so the holes are drilled on center already) I am going to be making a guided hand tapping bracket at some point soon when I have to tap on a flat again,

-Page
 
Betcha you read Bob Terzuola’s book?

Now I’m sure some of the real machinists around here will have much more to say than I can but…

Compared to hand tapping, using a tapping head is such fun!
I have a different style-similar to a Tapmatic, but I may have tapped about a hundred holes in scrap as soon as I got it-just for fun because it was such a joy to do compared to hand tapping. I tried and tried to break a tap on purpose, but the clutch always let go before that happened. Good thing, as the 0-80 tap that I was using was a special order made in USA item and ran me 25$ each – I had visions of an expensive “ping” that never materialized.

In the sizes you mentioned, don’t discount a 4-40 thread if your design allows.
Especially on a pocket clip which can take a lot of abuse.

As Sun shadow mentioned, the spiral point taps are made for production and are really suited for your tapping head.
Although they might work, 4 flute hand taps are just that, made for hand tapping.

In your post you plan on doing “a” linerlock?
Well when choosing the tap, you don’t need super high priced tooling.
In business the most expensive part of the machining operation is time.
The high cost of the best cutting tools is justified by faster machining time and lower down time in tool change.
This is likely not a concern for you.
Even with using titanium, it is so thin, wear is not too bad. When using in composites such as g10 and carbon fiber, it is very abrasive on cutting tools. I can’t sharpen taps, so I consider them to be throwaway.

I recommend the most inexpensive Spiral point, machine taps (not hand taps), cutting (not roll), HSS, uncoated (unless coated is more common & therefore cheaper).

I also recommend buying from a machine tooling supplier rather than a hardware store. They will have a larger selection, a higher quality and sell in bulk rather than prepackaged items.

The money you save can be spent on having more than one.
If I can bet on anything, it’s that if I buy just one, I break or lose it.

Same can be said for drills.
Use a chart to pick the “correct” drill size and get a few of each.
They are so darn small; I toss those too instead of sharpening.

A word on drill size, most charts are calculated on 70% threads. You may also lookup or calculate a 50%, or 80% thread play with sizes, a looser or tighter hole may suit your needs.
(No jokes)

Steve
 
Get 2 flute spiral point H2 TIN coated taps. The Titanium Nitride helps lube the material and makes the tap last 2-3 times longer, just so long as you don't break it. @ flute rather than 4 is much stronger. As far as size is concerned, most liner locks are thin enough material that it is really easy to tap. So it is up to you, but if you keep with a Blacksmith mentality bigger is better....Machinist mentality as small as will fit.
 
Thanks for all the feedback! I would probably still be scratching my head trying to figure out what to get. Going to place my order today.
 
Little drills break oftenand usually at 11 PM when you can't get more. anything 1/8 inch or smaller buy 6 at a time, anything over 1/8 inch I sharpen. I got a drill doctor brand drill sharpener, cost 120.00 at sears, it gets the bits sharper and truer than they come from the factory in about 2 minutes. It has saved me esaily what it cost as well as the time I would have wasted vainly hunting for that 13/64th drill bit at the local hardware store had they been open at 11 pm (which they are not)

-Page
 
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