Need some help

[okzj]

Hey guys,

I'm a fairly new maker. Up to this point all I've used is O-1. I like it, but I'm getting a little bored with it. All I make are working knives that sometimes look good, but I want something to set them apart. What I think I'm going to start doing is making blades that show a temper line, and I need some advice on steel. I've read all I can here and elsewhere and picked up the basics, but what I haven't found is a comparative qualitative analysis of the steels to use to get a good temper line while maintaining blade performance. For my purposes, I need to limit the choices to 1075, 1080, or 1095. I know W-1 and W-2 will probably outperform them in every category, but I can't find them in flat stock and I can't forge Hanson's 2" rounds (or anything else for that matter... I'm stuck with stock removal for the time being). So, with that said, which of the three will show the best hamon and still give good edge holding? Think of light utility or skinning work as what they will be most used for.

Thanks,
Taylor

 

[A C Richards]

1095 or w-1. W-1 is basically 1095 held to a tighter tolerances.

 

[Patrickknives]

I used 1095 and it works really well. With and edge quench you can get a really good hamon effect and a good cutting blade. It does not require a soak so its pretty easy to HT. The quench is really quick 1 second but I have not had any problems with that.

To get a good hamon effect I put a couple of metal bars in the bottom of my quench pan ( turkey cooking pan about 4" deep. This allowes me to easily control the depth of the edge in the quench.

 

[okzj]

I used 1095 and it works really well. With and edge quench you can get a really good hamon effect and a good cutting blade. It does not require a soak so its pretty easy to HT. The quench is really quick 1 second but I have not had any problems with that.

To get a good hamon effect I put a couple of metal bars in the bottom of my quench pan ( turkey cooking pan about 4" deep. This allowes me to easily control the depth of the edge in the quench.

Do you use oil, water, or dual quench?

 

[Barkes Knife Shop]

Hello Taylor:

If you will purchase some of 1095 or 52100 CRA you can get a outstanding temper line. I have links on my website to Steel suppliers and other links related to knife making. Here is a photograph of one I completed just the other day. As you can see the temper line is superb. Hope this was of help to you. :thumbup:

Terry

 

[Patrickknives]

Sweet Barkes

I use old transmission fluid. Any light oil will due. You need a fast quench. I tried water but had some bad experiences that I really dont want to discuss. Pic worth 1000 words.

 

[okzj]

Just as a proof of concept, I took one of my old, but quality American made (figured it was close to 1095/W1 or W2) files, put my heat treat furnace on "afterburn" and lo and behold I got a good forging heat. The only thing I had to forge on was a piece of I-beam and the concrete floor of my shop and a brand new 4lb huge faced Kobalt hammer. Forged something that looked vaguely like a blade and did a furnace anneal. Next day, finished it up on the grinder. Took some of the tailings from drilling out some firebrick and made a paste. Applied it to blade and straight into the furnace. Cherry red and nonmagnetic in about 30 seconds, then into the water quench. One second in, one out, two in, one out, then left it in. So, at this point I was thinking "If it comes out in one piece I'll be happy, much less if it shows a line". Well wouldn't ya know... after a little cleanup and a hot vinegar/dish soap etch here's what I had:

I didn't even temper it, but I put an edge on it and used it to skin a deer on Wednesday. You can see the chips in the edge. I think I'll temper it, re-etch it, and finish it out. First forged knife, first temper line, and first knife from surplus steel all in one.

She's sharp, too.

Thanks for all your help, guys. I'll get some 1095 and go to work.