Well the 550 (I have the 1st gen. 551) is titanium on the lockbar side and G-10 on the other. The titanium is slick but that's more or less irrelevant since your fingers grip the G-10 side, which is sufficiently textured to ensure that the knife isn't going anywhere with 4 or 5 fingers on it. ZT's are very strong and solid. The only disconcerting thing to me about my 551 is how thin the lockbar cutout is (which is probably psychological..)
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Need some input on picking next knife!!
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Snowsurfer935
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That's good to know about the handles. You think the lock bar could be snapped or disengaged under extreme torsion and twisting?
As long as you have a solid grip on it (particularly with your index finger) and the lock-up was good to begin with, it's hard for me to imagine how it could become disengaged. It also has the Hinderer stabilizer which prevents over-extension of the lock bar.
>(However, I haven't used this knife very hard and don't want to be the guy who recommended a knife that ended up cutting another guy's finger off--so a second or third opinion could be helpful.)
Snowsurfer935
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As long as you have a solid grip on it (particularly with your index finger) and the lock-up was good to begin with, it's hard for me to imagine how it could become disengaged. It also has the Hinderer stabilizer which prevents over-extension of the lock bar.
>(However, I haven't used this knife very hard and don't want to be the guy who recommended a knife that ended up cutting another guy's finger off--so a second or third opinion could be helpful.)
Haha I don't think anyone would want that! But why have a stabilizer if its not a flimsy knife to begin with?
Snowsurfer935
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As long as you have a solid grip on it (particularly with your index finger) and the lock-up was good to begin with, it's hard for me to imagine how it could become disengaged. It also has the Hinderer stabilizer which prevents over-extension of the lock bar.
>(However, I haven't used this knife very hard and don't want to be the guy who recommended a knife that ended up cutting another guy's finger off--so a second or third opinion could be helpful.)
Haha I don't think anyone would want that! But why have a stabilizer if its not a flimsy knife to begin with?
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ZT 0200. It begs you to beat the sh*t out of it. Definitely "overbuilt".
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It's my understanding that the stabilizer is designed to keep the user from over extending the lock in the opening direction... which would help to keep from placing unneeded stress on the lock. As someone mentioned, they are on the Hinderers... and I don't think anyone thinks of the Hinderers as flimsy.
The blade on the Manix 2 will break before the FRN handles do. The FRN is very solid indeed. It's an excellent knife so long as you don'y use it as a pry bar.
There are so many options it is hard to choose!
If you asked me to pick the first knife that comes to mind, it would be the ZT0560 or 0561, and IMO it should be checked out before buying.
The highlights of this knife is both oversized thumb studs and flipper, the use of titanium alloy for the handle structure, G10 scale for grip as ti-only can be slippery, an overbuilt pivot and advanced bearing/detent system, a thicker locking bar, an unusually thick blade, and a blade steel of ELMAX in which a lot of independent testing speaks to this steel. Build purpose is really for heavier usage more so than fine cutting, although the knife is capable of both.
The materials used on it are notable for their toughness and longevity, and the lock used is designed for usage that many other knives would either not hold up to or not hold up to without developing something such as blade play. ELMAX steel is known for being tougher than most stainless steels and it gives excellent edge retention and corrosion resistance.
You will probably also want a knife in a brushed, stonewashed, or tumbled finish over polished or coated blade because the latter two tend to get marked up easily and are difficult-to-impossible to fix, where as brushed, SW, or tumbled can be refinished in a 20 second DIY job with a scratch pen or SC block. Also, it sounds like you may want to look for a steel that favors toughness over edge retention which is why I think that ELMAX is an excellent choice given the abuse it can take.
If you asked me to pick the first knife that comes to mind, it would be the ZT0560 or 0561, and IMO it should be checked out before buying.
The highlights of this knife is both oversized thumb studs and flipper, the use of titanium alloy for the handle structure, G10 scale for grip as ti-only can be slippery, an overbuilt pivot and advanced bearing/detent system, a thicker locking bar, an unusually thick blade, and a blade steel of ELMAX in which a lot of independent testing speaks to this steel. Build purpose is really for heavier usage more so than fine cutting, although the knife is capable of both.
The materials used on it are notable for their toughness and longevity, and the lock used is designed for usage that many other knives would either not hold up to or not hold up to without developing something such as blade play. ELMAX steel is known for being tougher than most stainless steels and it gives excellent edge retention and corrosion resistance.
You will probably also want a knife in a brushed, stonewashed, or tumbled finish over polished or coated blade because the latter two tend to get marked up easily and are difficult-to-impossible to fix, where as brushed, SW, or tumbled can be refinished in a 20 second DIY job with a scratch pen or SC block. Also, it sounds like you may want to look for a steel that favors toughness over edge retention which is why I think that ELMAX is an excellent choice given the abuse it can take.
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Hinderers and Striders have stabilizers!
That doesn't surprise me honestly. I think S110V and S90V are pretty poor candidates for a folding knife when toughness is desired, and IMHO most folding knives will at some point see usage in which toughness is important. When Spyderco did a PM2 with a CPM-154 core and S90V laminated edge, I think that was a much better idea than the solid PM2 in S90V as the knife had bough extreme toughness and extreme wear resistance. To me, extreme edge retention with lesser toughness is great for a kitchen knife, but not for most EDC folders that see general (and sometimes heavier) usage.
For the OP, based on his usage I do not think a S110V Manix is a good knife at all for their application, which needs toughness and impact resistance beyond what CPM-S110V gives. For that matter, I don't think any of the exotic steels with crazy edge retention/wear resistance but with low toughness are good choices in this case. Also, with their stated usage, I think a steel that is easier to field-sharpen has some advantages.
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I second the Manix 2 (not the Lightweight) and offer the BM 710 (M390, if you can find one). I have a regular saber ground Manix 2 in S30V and a FFG sprint in CTS BD30P ( gave the Lightweight in CTS BD1 away, but have one in S110V on order), and the BM 710 in both D2 and M390. Solid and trustworthy knives, all. I wouldn't be afraid to use any of them in a role normally delegated to a fixed blade, if it became necessary.
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i recommend the manix 2, one of the best knives for the price, you can find it for a lower price than a paramilitary and i like the lock on it better. the manix 2 is also much cheaper than the bm stryker and has a similar locking mechanism. i personally like the all black manix 2. the manix xl is larger, and is also an amazing knife, but the handle shape is different than the manix 2.
+1.
Sounds to me the Gayle Bradley is the one you're looking for, but you'll be stretching your budget right out at $200.
Snowsurfer935
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That's good to know, but I will definitely be using it very hard. Some decent prying and similar abuse is going to be certain, so I'm looking for overbuilt fixed-blade toughness and reliability in a folder configuration. I think the manix 2 is probably out of the picture, and possibly the military/PM2 as well due to having such a delicate tip that is probably snap the first day. The Spyderco Gayle Bradley didn't look like too terrible of an option but its quite a bit more than I can spend, I think I saw it on blade HQ for around $270. Looking to spend at least $100 less than that.
Snowsurfer935
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I have looked into both of those and would sure like to get my hand on one, but again they are far past my price point right now.