Need to remove pivot screws on knife. Need help.

O

oliveview

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May 12, 2015
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I've got a new Custom Knife Factory Gratch. I need to remove the pivot screws, but as many know, that's easier said than done, as these ones are clearly thread-locked in with what I fear to be red Loctite.
With that in mind, what can I try to break those bonds? I know that heat ~500-degrees can liquify the red, but I'm concerned that the carbon fiber scales, and the nylon which houses the ceramic bearings will most certainly be damaged by those temps.

Can someone please help?
 
Blues Bender said:
Send a PM/Email to Scrim, he got his out a while ago.
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Yes. Thanks. Already read his revised thread, where he lists the step-by-step which led to his success. However, it sounds like his was likely blue lactate, whereas I have a very bad feeling that mine might be red.
 
I'm wondering whether there might be a chemical solvent which would attack the thread lock, but NOT damage the carbon fiber or nylon bearing washers.
 
oliveview said:
Yes. Thanks. Already read his revised thread, where he lists the step-by-step which led to his success. However, it sounds like his was likely blue lactate, whereas I have a very bad feeling that mine might be red.
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Blue Lactate? Oh my...:D;)

On a serious note, I'm assuming you tried his method to no success?
 
You don't have to "liquify" loctite, you only have to soften it a little.

Red loctite is designed to prevent a bolt/screw from working loose from vibration, even at high temps. But it isn't designed to resist torque at high temps (like the torque applied by a screwdriver).

It doesn't take 500 degrees of heat to weaken red loctite enough to break it loose with a screwdriver.

Red loctite comes in a variety of heat ranges. Some have a maximum heat of 300 degrees, and some 650 degrees.

Of course, if you are reluctant to use heat or perform the task yourself, contact the maker.
 
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Sorry for the typo...

I haven't done specifically what he tried. Yet. Partly, because I think he may have lucked out with the glue not damaging the CF. Before I try that, I'm exploring other options.
But I have tried a method I came up with, where I made my own "tool" with a mold I made of the pivot screw, out of steel bond material. But when I tried to turn the skew on the other side, the resistance was so strong, that I became quite concerned that I might very well shear off the titanium screw (those happen to be very small screws, despite the large visible decorative exteriors...).
 
killgar said:
You don't have to "liquify" loctite, you only have to soften it a little.

Red loctite is designed to prevent a bolt/screw from working loose from vibration, even at high temps. But it isn't designed to resist torque at high temps (like the torque applied by a screwdriver).

It doesn't take 500 degrees of heat to weaken red loctite enough to break it loose with a screwdriver.

Red loctite comes in a variety of heat ranges. Some have a maximum heat of 300 degrees, and some 650 degrees.

Of course, if you are reluctant to use heat or perform the task yourself, contact the maker.
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Thanks. My concern (not knowing specifically what form of loctite is in there) is that if I apply too much heat, I risk destroying the CF and nylon washers. Clearly, it might be an instance where it makes sense to send it back to the retailer. But it sort of kills me to return something which I think I could fix myself, if not for the seemingly fused fasteners. By the way, I haven't even mentioned what my issue is - the blade has an unacceptable amount of play when both open and closed. What should be easily resolved with a slight tightening of the pivot screws, is just not possible at the moment.
 
I used a soldering iron on a Pat Crawford Framelock it worked fine but the handle's all stainless the carbon fiber should take the temp fine as the pivot having no heat sink like the stainless handle the pivot should heat up rather quickly and what killgar said is true.
 
T. Erdelyi said:
I used a soldering iron on a Pat Crawford Framelock it worked fine but the handle's all stainless the carbon fiber should take the temp fine as the pivot having no heat sink like the stainless handle the pivot should heat up rather quickly and what killgar said is true.
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Soldering iron works...
 
Would red loctite hav be used on the pivot? Seems extreme. I would think its just a lot of blue with a good grip. I'm guessing you put the torx driver on and turn hard with a lot of down pressure?
 
115Italian said:
Would red loctite hav be used on the pivot? Seems extreme. I would think its just a lot of blue with a good grip. I'm guessing you put the torx driver on and turn hard with a lot of down pressure?
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You may be correct, but I can't say for sure. Part of why I had the suspicion that it might be red, is that the moment that I took it out of the pouch, there were a few small flecks of what looked like red plastic in various crevices of the knife. Nowhere else, was that the case. I thought nothing of it, until realizing that the blade was loose, and trying to tighten proved impossible. Obviously, I don't want to damage the knife, so I'm not going any further with trying to force the torx to test whether it's just a solid blue loctite. So, it may remain a mystery for now...
 
I would send the knife back since it came with "issues".

That said, it would be highly unlikely to be red LT in a production company knife. BLue is the standard for holding fasteners and is what pre loaded fasters come with.

If you are faced with this in the future a soldering iron held to the head gives the most control and even a relatively small temperature increase will release most loctites. (not black). Even boiling water temperature (100C) should soften the Loctite enough to make it possible to loosen a screw most times. This is well below temperature that will damage a blade. Although nylon will soften (not melt) from a brief exposure to 100C.

Also I have found that the small torx heads will strip or the drivers bend/twist before I have broken a screw.
 
Rapt_up said:
I would send the knife back since it came with "issues".

That said, it would be highly unlikely to be red LT in a production company knife. BLue is the standard for holding fasteners and is what pre loaded fasters come with.

If you are faced with this in the future a soldering iron held to the head gives the most control and even a relatively small temperature increase will release most loctites. (not black). Even boiling water temperature (100C) should soften the Loctite enough to make it possible to loosen a screw most times. This is well below temperature that will damage a blade. Although nylon will soften (not melt) from a brief exposure to 100C.

Also I have found that the small torx heads will strip or the drivers bend/twist before I have broken a screw.
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Thanks! Great advice. I'm going to send the product back, but all good info for the next time when I don't or can't send a different knife back.
 
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