Need to sharpen my loppers

[american21]

Got them used blade has some nicks what to use to sharpen? I own the wicked edge and the sharpmaker and a Dremel. What angle?
Hope this is the right section to post

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Follow the factory edge bevel and sharpen back into the edge until the nicks are removed. Depending on the kind of loppers you may be able to remove the blade for better access. Do not, under any circumstances, sharpen the backside. Usually a fine cut file followed by a medium synthetic stone does the trick. Scythe stones like the Lansky "Lawn & Garden" tend to do a good job for the task.

 

[chiral.grolim]

Define "loppers".
Something like this?

If you can take it apart, that would make sharpening easier. I wouldn't use the wicked-edge clamp but you might be able to use the hones free-hand if you have any coarse enough. The sharpmaker hones might also work free-hand if you have a coarse enough hone. In either case, i would work free-hand, holding the blade still and running the hone across the bevel. The key is to be able to remove sufficient material from the bevel to apex the edge, and that will likely require a very coarse hone. These are chisel-ground, so you should only sharpen the beveled side with maybe a single swipe to remove the burr from the flat side. Simply paint the edge-bevel with marker (red Sharpie works very well) and then run the hone along the bevel at the proper angle to remove all of the marker = matched bevel angle. Grind the bevel at that angle until you achieve a clean apex.

The dremel is a crude sharpening instrument, can do a heck of a lot of damage to an edge in a hurry, you are better off using a 1x30 belt-sander or just a $4 hone from the hardware store. That's my $0.02. FWIW I sharpen my outdoor tools (loppers, trimmers, axes/picks, scythes, mower) on a HF 1x30 with good results using 80 & 120 grit belts followed by some finer grits from Lee Valley if I feel the urge.

 

[mycough]

Define "loppers".
Something like this?

If you can take it apart, that would make sharpening easier. I wouldn't use the wicked-edge clamp but you might be able to use the hones free-hand if you have any coarse enough. The sharpmaker hones might also work free-hand if you have a coarse enough hone. In either case, i would work free-hand, holding the blade still and running the hone across the bevel. The key is to be able to remove sufficient material from the bevel to apex the edge, and that will likely require a very coarse hone. These are chisel-ground, so you should only sharpen the beveled side with maybe a single swipe to remove the burr from the flat side. Simply paint the edge-bevel with marker (red Sharpie works very well) and then run the hone along the bevel at the proper angle to remove all of the marker = matched bevel angle. Grind the bevel at that angle until you achieve a clean apex.

The dremel is a crude sharpening instrument, can do a heck of a lot of damage to an edge in a hurry, you are better off using a 1x30 belt-sander or just a $4 hone from the hardware store. That's my $0.02. FWIW I sharpen my outdoor tools (loppers, trimmers, axes/picks, scythes, mower) on a HF 1x30 with good results using 80 & 120 grit belts followed by some finer grits from Lee Valley if I feel the urge.

Well said, that little harbor freight belt sander is handy as all get out in these situations. Just don't over heat the edge. Russ

 

[HeavyHanded]

I use a file on mine. If they come apart all the better, clamp them in a padded vise or otherwise lock them down as best you can. Mark up edge with Sharpie and just file a new cutting edge following the existing angles - can use a leading (be careful) or trailing pass. Remove/reduce burr with a few light passes flat across the backside, leading into the edge - don't go crazy chasing it down.

If really hammered, the opposite side can be ground with a chain saw file on the inside of the radius, just don't touch the side that contacts the opposing blade except for very light passes to remove the burr or just let it be. You only want to create a crisp corner for the blade to shear against and it isn't critical.

The steel on these is not hardened very high, they clean up rapidly so stop often to inspect progress.

 

[american21]

Define "loppers".
Something like this?

If you can take it apart, that would make sharpening easier. I wouldn't use the wicked-edge clamp but you might be able to use the hones free-hand if you have any coarse enough. The sharpmaker hones might also work free-hand if you have a coarse enough hone. In either case, i would work free-hand, holding the blade still and running the hone across the bevel. The key is to be able to remove sufficient material from the bevel to apex the edge, and that will likely require a very coarse hone. These are chisel-ground, so you should only sharpen the beveled side with maybe a single swipe to remove the burr from the flat side. Simply paint the edge-bevel with marker (red Sharpie works very well) and then run the hone along the bevel at the proper angle to remove all of the marker = matched bevel angle. Grind the bevel at that angle until you achieve a clean apex.

The dremel is a crude sharpening instrument, can do a heck of a lot of damage to an edge in a hurry, you are better off using a 1x30 belt-sander or just a $4 hone from the hardware store. That's my $0.02. FWIW I sharpen my outdoor tools (loppers, trimmers, axes/picks, scythes, mower) on a HF 1x30 with good results using 80 & 120 grit belts followed by some finer grits from Lee Valley if I feel the urge.

Yes that type I took off the blade just a little 3 inch peice

 

[bgentry]

You've got good replies from several people already. I'll just add:

A file works well and so does a stone held in hand. I've used a medium Crystolon (Silicon Carbide) and a fine India (Aluminum Oxide) and they seem to work well.

If the nicks and dings are big enough to leave dents on the flat side, you'll want to grind those flat first. It usually doesn't take much effort, but it's a good idea to get that back side nice and flat with no dings. Just make sure to keep the file or stone dead flat against the back side and don't do too much work there.

Once that's done, just like the other guys said, sharpen the factory bevel until you create a burr on the back flat side. Then remove the burr from the back with FLAT strokes. It should only take a handful. They should be nice and sharp when you're done.

Brian.

 

[Kai Winters]

I use a medium diamond hone by Lansky...works great and easy to handle.

 

[chiral.grolim]

...If the nicks and dings are big enough to leave dents on the flat side, you'll want to grind those flat first. It usually doesn't take much effort, but it's a good idea to get that back side nice and flat with no dings. Just make sure to keep the file or stone dead flat against the back side and don't do too much work there...

^This is a really good point, excellent advice. I'll mention that on yard tools with soft steel I've 'peened' steel back into alignment with a hammer and anvil before sharpening.

 

[american21]

My stones go from 100 to 1000 on the wicked. Start at 100 and go to what ? 400?

 

[chiral.grolim]

My stones go from 100 to 1000 on the wicked. Start at 100 and go to what ? 400?

Restore the edge with the 100 first (that may take a while, depending on the damage), then decide if you feel like going to a higher grit. You might consider apexing the blade with the 100 and then simply adding a microbevel at 400 grit and calling it good. If you're OCD, polish it to the absolute best of your abilities! It's your tool - how clean do you need that cut to be, how often do you intend to restore the edge? Same logic to use with any cutting implement. Loppers are often used to cut thick pieces of wood with great force - geometry of the edge is more important than the grit-finish. If you are pruning a very delicate plant, you might require a finer polish for a crisper/cleaner cut. *shrug* It's up to you.