need tough abuse-folder, at reasonable price

I have a cold steel voyager tanto that I've beat, pried, batoned with a brick, etc. and it still works great. Cold steel has a little more thickness to the zytell around the pivot, which I think helps it compared to spyderco. The edge is robust and sharpens well.
 
What do you mean with cheap?

If by that you mean $50.00 or less, I would second the medium Tanto Voyager by Cold Steel. The blade is AUS 8A, but according to the Steel FAQ:

"Cold Steel's use of AUS-8 has made it pretty popular, as heat treated by CS it won't hold an edge like ATS-34, but is a bit softer and may be a bit tougher."
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That is something to consider.
 
Definitely take a look at an Emerson CQC-7...definitely under $150 and a hard use knife. It is worth a glance.
 
All great knives mentioned above.

I am at Buck, so my recommendation for price would be our Strider Buck 887. The drop point tip keeps alot of steel through to the point, if you have to pry. The first forefinger radius is on the blade and allows you to hold over the pivot. If you have to twist make sure you use a clockwise motion so your fingers don't grab the lock and unlock it.


The 420HC blade provides good ductility as well.

As far as your previous Buck Striders, contact me and we'll see what we can do to help you out.

Horizontal play is normally due to a loose pivot, usually loosend by the customer to make the action smoother instead of breaking it in.

Vertical play leans more towards damage or an incorrect OD grind on the lock surface of the blade.

Get in touch with me and we will square you away.

Hope that helps

Josh

P.S. CRKT's M-16 is a great knife. Kit Carson is a superb designer.
 
CRKT M1

Benchmade Griptilian

For really cheap, the Byrds have metal handles.

Dodo for $69 at Selfdefenseforums.com not a bad price.
 
Have you considered an Opinel?
Cheap, replaceable,
and pretty strong locks.
Even a Cold Steel would do a pretty good job.
 
J Rummerfield said:
As far as your previous Buck Striders, contact me and we'll see what we can do to help you out.
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Talk about excellent customer service. If they can work something out I would go for the Buck Strider.
 
as far as the buck-striders are concerned, i've sold 2 of them to other knifenuts and kept one which i 'converted' into a semi-stout fixedblade. i call it my "POS prybar prison shank" :D , i carry it in my toolbox, but i'm still being drawn to it often because it's 'my kind of knife'. i can pry with it, stab it into metal, throw it around, and it doesn't care. now, THAT i like.

i'm currently pondering about the following options, alot of them also mentioned by you guys previously: use the pliers of multi's to pry (done it before, works great indeed, very strong), carry a spyderco police and simply use its steel handle in the closed position to pry, because of its slim profile it should work. will also try out a CRKT m16 and m1 once, to see what it can do.

perhaps i will also buy a Strider EB-T, it comes very close to what is ideal to me. it's a fixed, so i'd have to carry it sheathed, well, ok, can live with that, it's not that big. trouble is, these are expensive, and hard to find. just did a search on ebay and no eb-t's around there.

a buck-strider solution 4" fixed might work well too, although it;s spearpoint.

thanks for all help and suggestions you guys, appreciated much.

dennis
 
brownshoe said:
Cold steel has a little more thickness to the zytell around the pivot
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Spyderco tends to use small pins which are easier to shear through the plastic.

-Cliff
 
I do not doubt your analysis on the CS product Cliff but then again that was the clip point model which has an inherently weaker tip than the tanto. Still, do you think it was the design or the heat treat that caused it to fail?

I'm not sure what type of point the CRK M16 has - is it tanto or spearpoint? I decided against getting one of their (CRK) folders recently due to concerns about what appears to be a flimsy liner lock. Any thoughts on that? I kind of like one of their designs (not the M16) - its got sort of a tanto / drop point. Anyway, any input would be appreciated...

For now I'll stick with my Chinook II and leave the prying jobs for my Swamp Rat ;)
 
James Green Dragon said:
I do not doubt your analysis on the CS product Cliff but then again that was the clip point model which has an inherently weaker tip than the tanto. Still, do you think it was the design or the heat treat that caused it to fail?
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It bent due to the both. The steel is rather soft and the tip very pointed. If the steel wasn't ductile though it would have just cracked off, you need more mass in the tip to do that digging without damage, so get the Tanto if it is thicker.

I'm not sure what type of point the CRK M16
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A number of versions are available.

... concerns about what appears to be a flimsy liner lock.
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Seems solid to me, the LAWKS system prevents torque failures and white knuckle releases and based on the above it steels likely to me that the blade will fail on the Point Guard before the lock will go.

-Cliff
 
allenC said:
The first knife that comes to mind that meets your needs (an inexpensive folder that you can pry with) is the Schrade LB7 or Buck 110.

The tip is'nt a tanto but you could always snap the tip and reprofile to suit your needs.
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I think that the tip of the 110 blade is way too thin and way too pointy for prying. If it's something you can get the whole blade into or under, then maybe. I like the 110, but I think that tanto is clearly the way to go for prying.

Gordon
 
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