new 112 Pro TRX design question

[Jeff of the North]

ok

I was confused on the model knife you were talking about... those are nice looking.. The orange one is the one im having the issue with... definitley not a pivot point issue or an ignorance to rule #1 knife safety issue... I'm going to send it back to buck shortly after I move and I will get back to everyone with my results then.

I think that is a good plan and I'm willing to bet that you may receive a new knife in return.

 

[jbmonkey]

the early slims had this issue a bit. they moved the thumbstud out further for better leverage. only issue was thumbstud was in the cutting path on later ones.

seems Jeff your talking about this, right..
factory thumbstud placement? op are ya talking about this too or something else?

 

[Jeff of the North]

the early slims had this issue a bit. they moved the thumbstud out further for better leverage. only issue was thumbstud was in the cutting path on later ones.

seems Jeff your talking about this, right..
factory thumbstud placement? op are ya talking about this too or something else?

I believe that the O.P. and I are having a similar issue with opening our 112s, regardless of the model.

They both have a "sticking point" where there is so much resistance while opening that the blade can slip from your fingers and snap shut unexpectedly.

I was able to improve the deployment by installing a Kwik stud as the nail nick alone wasn't offering enough grip.

 

[pjsjr]

I'm going to send it back to buck shortly after I move and I will get back to everyone with my results then.

Have you flushed and oiled the pivot? This can make a difference as well as working it, a lot, with gloved hands. My 112 Slim Pro was difficult and this treatment helped.

 

[MT_Pokt]

It makes much more sense now. Thanks for clearing it up!

If you have the nerve to take the TRX apart, becareful of the tiny pin that the lock bar rides on. I was crawling on all fours looking for mine the first time!

Take one side off and slowly operate the blade. You'll see that with the blade closed, there's a bit of a recess where the lock bar rests, and when open there's a notch in the blade where it locks in. The transition from one to the other puts stress on the lock bar for several intended and consequential reasons.

You may take the blade out and polish the round portion that the lock bar travels on during the blade operation. It may also have some polishing material on it, or even fine tuning marks. Careful to only polish and not remove any material though.

They're screwed together so Buck should expect that sort of tinkering and tuning.

If your effort fails, send it back.

Of the thousands of these knives that are put together, it's pompous to expect 100% of them to be to the liking of 100% of the users.

Simple things like polishing the blade spline as I describe may be a little frustrating, but even without attention should work itself out, right? The blade is harder steel than the lock bar so one will give to the other with use.

Or... I still don't understand what's going on...

 

[MT_Pokt]

 

[AZbuckNM]

I finally realize what you all are talking about...It took some time and yes mine had a slight stick. Im going to pull out my torx and loosen it a smidge. I think that will alleviate the issue. I'll report back later

 

[Jeff of the North]

Your photo is perfect, thank you!

If I could take apart my Pro, I'm certain there would be an issue right in the area of where the yellow line points to on the contact surface.

 

[AZbuckNM]

I finally realize what you all are talking about...It took some time and yes mine had a slight stick. Im going to pull out my torx and loosen it a smidge. I think that will alleviate the issue. I'll report back later

Oiled the pivot points and slightly loosened the torx screw and it opens significantly smoother...BUT, I still feel that resistance that everyone mentioned. I kinda like the resistance that it gives though