New Abrasive Belt Design

george tichbourne

george tichbourne

Joined
Apr 19, 1999
Messages
3,560
Over the last four weeks I have had two separate belt manufacturers visit my shop with samples of a new belt configuration.

Both manufacturers were promoting a very stiff backing on their belts, much stiffer than the conventional Y weight belt. These belts do not roll over at the edge of the contact wheels but actually extend beyond the wheel and are stiff enough to grind with in the unsupported mode.

This stiffness allows me to grind the shoulder of the ricasso perfectly square and makes the matching of the shoulders a piece of cake.

Both manufacturers are supplying the belts in grits from 50 to 240 or better. This is a real benefit because most fine grit belts are available in J weight only.

The first manufacturer is VSM and their belt # is KK711Y, the second is Hermes and their # isSB378R.

You should be able to source them from your local distributors.

I get this information from time to time because of the commercial metal polishing shop that I own. I will pass anything new on as it comes my way.


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george
 
george thanks for the info on the belts. I have mostly used the cheeper belts but now I am considering using the better belts that are out there.
Chris, Top of Texas Knives
www.toptexknives.com

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Chris
Don't get too eager to use the more expensive belts. The belts that I described are special items best suited for fine detailing work. For profiling and initial grinding I will still be sticking with Y weight 50 grit Aluminum oxide belts primarily because of cost, brand new ones for bevel grinding and used ones for profiling.

The fancy mineral mixes like ceramic and zirconuim oxide ,usually mixed with aluminum oxide(ALO) work best on heavy pressure machines but for hand grinding we cannot put enough pressure on these exotics to break down the grains. Grain breakdown under pressure (friability to the trade)is a form of self sharpening for an abrasive belt so in my experience the exotics tend not to break down enough to resharpen the bits of grain just enough to round off the corners. Maybe you have seen it on some of your belts that you have been taking it very easy on. The grit is still there but is rounded off like river pebbles and won't cut any more.



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george
 
george I have notice that before, what I did not know was if I did not put enough pressure while grinding it would dul the belt. I use a Burr King with a 1 hp baldor 220 wat motor, what kind of grinder would those belts be good to work with. I grind without gloves on so I don't grind with a great deal of pressure to keep the steel from getting hot and I dip in water often.
thanks for the info george, and what kind of grinder do you use?
Chris www.toptexknives.com

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I am a bad one to ask that sort of question because I don't have a convential grinder and buffer. I use an industrial model buffer and grinder with a 7.5HP set up with a belt on one side and a buffing wheel on the other. My contact wheel is 14" in diameter and I typically buff with buffs in excess of 12" diameter and sometimes up to 18" if they are available.

This setup is not nearly the best for knifemaking because of vibration and wear and tear on the machine caused by the type of work I do on it from day to day. It's because of the shortcomings of my equipment that I am always onthe lookout for materials that will give me a better product.

Someday I will invest in a proper knifemaking machine possibly a Bee Grinder with a variable speed control on it. I was all set to do it last month but decided that the better investment would be a computer to get onto the web with my own site. The site is being set up by someone more familiar with that sort of thing maybe it will be ready in the next month or so.

When grinding and polishing I always wear gloves to reduce the chance of belt burns to my hands if the blade slips. These can be very serious, one fellow in the polishing trade managed to cut a tendon with the edge of the belt while grinding without gloves.


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george
 
Boy howdy that is alot of grinder and buffer. The nice thing about the Burr King is it's smooth and quiet and can be had with a variable speed controler an a bigger motor and I think you can get a 14in. wheel for it also. I am sure glad that you got the computer. And when you get the page up and running let us know. I would be glad to put a link on my page.
Chris,
www.toptexknives.com

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Chris Thank you for the offer I will take you up on it if and when that fellow ever finishes the site



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george
 
On big knives I do mine on my platen on the burr king. I radiused both sides the same first ,... then roll a soft belt around the raduis to get the match up. It works for mee. With a stiff belt I have trouble with it digging in . Just another way of doing the same thing.. For folder blades the disk sander is the best I have found .. It does a great job.

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Take a look!!!




 
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