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? I don’t even care for spyderco so I have no idea what you’re talking about

There are some folks here who are not fans of the convex bevel. I like convex blades, very much.

Spyderco seems to be the consensus choice when somebody wants "superior" cutting performance. I am very scared by their very thin blades.

I like your knives very much, and I think they'll require relatively more effort to do the same job as some other, thinner blades, but I like knives that can take a little rough treatment.
 
The stock is a little thick for my personal taste but nice nonetheless.

What are specs on the knives? Steel, handle material, blade length, handle length, etc.
 
Perhaps the OP is not aware of the 'Tacticlol Return of Ridiculous" thread. I will post the link below. I am pretty certain that is where all his knives are better displayed in their proper element:

 
C CagedSuperman those knives look nice, I did pretty much the same thing with the first couple knives I made, where I did a ridiculously thick convex grind. But I quickly learned that, that thick of a blade is not good for anything else but a prybar. Most people don’t realize just how thin you can make a knife that will hold up to hard use.
I regularly make knives with a very acute flat or slight hollow grind with a behind the edge thickness between 0.015“ and 0.020” depending on steel and use, if I need to go much over 0.020” with a steel to make it heavy duty enough for the task then I will select a different tougher steel.

One example, awhile ago I made a knife in 80crv2 that I heat treated in a gas forge (I know barf 🤮) stock was 3/16” with a nearly full flat grind, and about 0.018” behind the edge, I did some torture testing with it, including batoning through a brick as well as a cinder block, the damage did not go past the secondary bevel! and it wasn’t even heat treated correctly!! AND let’s be honest when in a real life scenario are you going to need to baton through a cinder block!!

Best regards,
Joseph
 
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