new at sharpening please help

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Aug 4, 2011
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hey i just turned fifteen and got a good beginner knife its a kershaw blur s30v. I was wondering could anyone recommend a good sharpening system for this knife please? in the book i got with my knife it says to sharpen my particular knife between 18 and 22 degrees. so if you know a knife sharpener that is easy to use but can get a blade shaving sharp again please let me know. like is something like dmt stones good, or the spyderco sharpmaker good? could someone also give there opinion on this ? http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WS...f=sr_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1312490725&sr=1-17
 
Welcome to Bladeforums!

The DMT stones are good, do you know how to freehand sharpen?
The Sharpmaker is a pretty good system, but it can't restore really dull edges very quickly.
The Work Sharp has a very long thread on here, I'll give you a link:http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/765050-Work-Sharp-Knife-Sharpener

One other thing you can consider is the paper wheels, they have a very good reputation one here. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/578787-paper-sharpening-wheels-when-your-time-is-important-to-you

I'm sure other people will give you more detailed answers, but I hope this helped.

Erdbeereis
 
erdbeereis thanks for the help. i do not have any experience in freehand sharpenning but i do want to learn how to because i think it would be a very useful skill to have but i have no real experience when it vomes to sharpening :(
 
Cobra Pilot, Freehand sharpening is more about feeling and listening to the blade on the stone. Your Kershaw already has the propper angle to its edge so let your blade be the guide. DMT is a well respected company, but that being said, any quality stone will work for your Kershaw. I would recomend that you get a cheap blade and work it across a stone untill you recognize the feel when you are following that factory edge.

By the way- are you looking at flying Army choppers one day? If so more power to you!
 
Oh, one more thing, I'm always a bit leery of powered sharpeners. They can give you great results very quickly, but they can also give you disasterous results very quickly. I would get some experience sharpening before going the "more power" rout. That being said, there are guys on this forum that can put a razor edge on a dozen knives using paper wheels before I've finished with one.
 
thanks for the advice. and no i dont plan to fly chopers. cobra pilot is my nick name at military camp. i plan on join the marines when im 17. and would you suggest something like the DMT DMG Diafold Magna-Guide Sharpening Accessory Kit if i buy dmt stones? here is a link to it if you dont know what it is. and if anyone else has suggestions please post them, especially if you have any techniques for free hand because i have never sharpened a knife before and want to know how to do it with out the help of machines or guides if that is possible for me.
 
Cobra Pilot, personally I think that freehand sharpening is easier than most people make it out to be, in fact, I think it is easier than using guides. I firmly believe that anyone is capable of learning how to freehand and edge on their knives, but that being said, there is no single-right way to sharpen. I'll tell you what I use and how I sharpen. It works for me, but ask someone else and they will give you a completely different answer.

First off, I use a Lansky set, but the guide stays in the case. I tried it, looked at the design, and decided that I could keep a more consistent angle freehand.

If the knife is new and has a good edge on it chances are that within a few minutes you can restore the edge with a fine stone or two, If the edge is dull, but still cuts I might move to a medium stone to start. You can always start with a corse stone if you want to, it just isn't required. (more to come)
 
I agree! Freehand sharpening is a great way to start out, or possibly a simple guided system like the DMT Magna-Guide. The benefit of that particular DMT set is that it uses the folding "DiaSharp" hones that you can use freehand as well as guided, should you want to. S30V is a moderately difficult steel to sharpen as they go, it is extremely tough stuff. It can be brought to a razor's edge, but takes time and patience to get there. Personally, I would suggest starting with a cheap, small kitchen knife to get the feel for what you are doing. They can be had very easily at Good Will, or places like that, usually for just a buck or so. That way you don't grind a bunch of usable life off of your nice Kershaw in learning.

I personally use a number of systems, including both guided stones and an unguided belt grinder. Once you get the feel for how the edge angle should be, then you can move on to almost any method you choose and it will give you good results. My first sharpening was done on an old oil stone belonging to my grandfather. If you happen to be somewhere around central Washington state, you're more than welcome to come crash my shop and try out some of the toys I've got, or stop down at the local place I sharpen on weekends, and I'll show you how to sharpen on the belt! :)
 
Now, I like to "get familiar" with a blade before I start sharpening in earnest. How I do this is I rest the blade on the stone and look at the point of contact. I roll the blade up and down a little so I can see the angle that places the edge in dirrect contact with the stone. This is the angle I like to hold when I sharpen my folders. If you roll the edge back, you will see a tiny gap open between the edge and the stone while the blade is still in conctact. If you sharpen at this angle you are going to begin to thin your edge. Some people like to use a coarse stone with the edge rolled back to give their blade more bite. I do this with some of my blades that I want to be able to rip into things. If you roll the knife the other way you will begin to create a micro-bevel. Micro-bevels can be usefull on knives with very thin edges to keep them from being damaged or dulling quickly. Also, If you are in a survival situation and you need a sharp edge now! You can use this technique to sharpen a dull knife quickly, but if you do this too often you will have to grind the shoulder down again one day. Some people like to sharpen this way and then have a pro put a good edge back on every year or two, others sharpen this way by hand and use powered tools to grind the shoulder down on occasion. (part 3 to come)
 
A very servicable strop can be made out of scrap leather (check your local shoe-repair place) or even the cardboard off the back of a notebook. Just rub it lightly with some buffing compound like you'd use for a grinder's buffing wheel (green works well) and use very light pressure. When you are stropping, generally the lighter a pressure you use, the better your results will turn out.

As to practice, again I'd highly suggest that you just pick up a couple of cheap knives. I've found kitchen knives to be the most commonly available ones, and use those are your guinea pigs. They also tend to be made of fairly soft steel, unlike your Kershaw's S30V blade, and come to an edge more quickly.
 
cobra pilot. if you want to get into hand sharpening you can do it cheaply with a piece of glass with some 3m wetordry sandpaper laid on top.

as a beginner i would stay away from diamond stones or any expensive abrasives until you learn how to hand sharpen.

i have a method for hand sharpening that is easy to do but it is too hard to explain in type. i can send some pictures that will help explain the method a little too. rje196021@gmail.com

i'm the paper wheel guru around here and if you do want to get into a powered system they work great. some guys pick up on it right off the bat but i suggest for anyone to practice on some cheap knives first. here is a link to a post made that you might find interesting. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9207988&postcount=710

a little note about guided systems like a lansky. if your knife is a full flat grind wihtout a flat spot to fasten the clamp, you might not get the clamp attached the same from one sharpening to the other. i found this out when i had a guided system. i was glad to finally get rid of it.
 
There are a couple of other tools that I find usefull, one is a bucher's steel. What it does is to straighten the edge. Often, when a knife isn't cutting well the edge has gotten wavy, but does not need to be sharpened yet. A few swipes on a steel (with the edge laying along the steel) will true the edge up again. You can only use a steel so many times between sharpenings though, and with a steel less is usually more. Use one too much and you will end up dulling your blade. I also like to keep a block of wood handy whenever I'm sharpening. If you slice along a corner of wood it can help strip off grains of steel that are mostly loose, but still stuck to the edge of the blade.

Besides angle you need to think about pressure. People have a tendency to press their blades too hard into a stone. What can happen when you do this is forming a burr, a very thin strip of steel right on the edge that has no integrity and will fold over the first time you use your knife. This is the frustrating thing about learning how to sharpen because people say things like use "just enough" pressure for your stones to work. Well, how much pressure is that, well... you can feel the stones working, but you only know what that feels like if you use the right pressure... This is what experience is for. As a rought example, (that I just thought of sitting here, maybe someone else can do better!) Imagine trapping a mosquito under your finger. The force required to crush it is more than the pressure required to get a coarse stone to work. Fine stones require even less pressure.

Good luck, and keep asking questions! Also, have some other guys tell you what they do. They'll probably say that I'm nuts, but thats ok. I get my blades sharp and they do to!
 
a little note about guided systems like a lansky. if your knife is a full flat grind wihtout a flat spot to fasten the clamp, you might not get the clamp attached the same from one sharpening to the other. i found this out when i had a guided system. i was glad to finally get rid of it.

This was my experience as well, I still use the stones, but the clamp just isn't worth it.
 
thanks guys. i dont think i have an shoe repair places near me so what would you suggest as a good starter strop? and than richard j thanks you but i would like to learn with stones before i use power sharpeners. but if you could send me some pics of your teechnique and anyone else who could help someone sharpen a knife that has never done it ever before please post :) thanks everyone so far
 
Cobra Pilot, have one of your parents send me an email with your shipping address I'll send you a 2"x9" piece of veg-tanned leather you can glue to a block if they are OK with it.

Oh, I should add my address CoyotePhyiscs@yahoo.com
 
Oh, one more thing, I'm always a bit leery of powered sharpeners. They can give you great results very quickly, but they can also give you disasterous results very quickly. I would get some experience sharpening before going the "more power" rout. That being said, there are guys on this forum that can put a razor edge on a dozen knives using paper wheels before I've finished with one.

if your afriad of the power sharpeners, why not play with a few cheaper kitchen knifes? You can buy them for super cheap anywhere like walmart and grind away at your hearts content.

Btw: power systems like the paper wheels do not really eat a knife that quickly, espeically if your using the wax correctly. seriously, your not gonna be missing a chunk of blade even if you really lean down on it unless your determined to break both the blade and your grinder/system. what your gonna need for that is the course stone on the grinder and even then it takes longer then you might think.
 
cobra pilot. if you want to get into hand sharpening you can do it cheaply with a piece of glass with some 3m wetordry sandpaper laid on top.

.

or you could use a mouse pad to get a more convex blade.

to be honest, i personnaly never really did get very good results by using sandpaper by hand.
 
ok ill ask them tomorrow if thats ok. thanks coyotephysics :). so i think im going to buy dmt double sided diafold sharpeners. and practice with old knives. any more suggestions on techniques like when i should move from coarse to fine to extra fine etc? and how and when to use a strop?
 
or you could use a mouse pad to get a more convex blade.

to be honest, i personnaly never really did get very good results by using sandpaper by hand.
To me it feels the same as with a stone except less maintenance (no need to lap it as you just replace the paper once it wears too much). As for convex blades, I never did try that mousepad/soft back technique. I would always just put 2-3 bevels on the blade and the result would be similar to a true convex.

@thread: To start, I'd say to use a softer steel. S30V is a pretty solid steel because of the vanadium carbides it has. This means it will eat at whatever you're sharpening the knife on pretty quick before you get any decent results. As someone already mentioned, you can probably find some cheapo farberware knives at walmart. I'd practice on those first. As per the actual sharpening, the sharpie trick works well to train yourself to keep angle consistency (you should be able to find a thread about it here somewhere). IMO you should try to stay away from sharpening systems. I never believed in them myself. As far as I can see, if you can freehand, you can use a system. You should be able to pick yourself up a double sided stone at your hardware store for about $8-10. Just make sure those corners are rounded when you start.
 
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