new axe handle...

S

siguy

Joined
Aug 26, 2006
Messages
3,799
just thought i would share a couple of quick photos of an axe handle i'm working on, and outline the process i have gone through so far.

i started with about a 7" diameter maple tree, and felled it with my 3.5# Snow and Nealley axe.

i split a good sized chunk off using a beater axe and a couple of iron wedges with a sledge hammer.

i took the chunk downstairs to my shop and began hacking away with my 14" Fiskars.

then i switched over to my trusty Mora #1 with laminated blade and plain birch handle.

here is the result so far, i am pretty happy with it:
IMG_1583.jpg


i am basing the design on this old, wonderful handle that i found in an antique shop.

the handle is going to be for a nice old Norlund that Gene (gunknifenut) gave me. he had hung a new handle on it, but there was a bit of space in the eye that allowed the head to wiggle loose, and i was looking for a new project anyways.
IMG_1584.jpg


here is the handle with the main tools used so far...about 95% of the stock removal and shaping has been done with the Fiskars, and the remainder is with the knife.
IMG_1586.jpg


i have some shaping and plenty of smoothing left before it will be ready to be set aside to dry, and then it can be hung and oiled up!
 
Looks like it's shaping up pretty well :)

I know nothing of making axe handles so please excuse my ingnorance - Does the wood require any aging before you fit it to the axe head?

Looks great - Can't wait to see the finished product.
 
since this was cut green about a week ago, it will need to be dryed out before fitting.

i could fit it green, and just leave extra wedge sticking out the top to pound in as the wood dries and shrinks, to keep the head on tight...

but it will be easier to simply let it dry naturally for a few weeks. i think i might try drying this in the oven on low heat, if i can fit it. otherwise i will have to wait longer..
 
Looks like a fun project. I 've got an couple of old pick axe heads that I've been wanting to make new handles for.

Keep us updated, Simon.
 
I just stopped Siguy's shop and saw some of his axe work up close and personal. I have to say, Simon is a natural when it comes to understanding functionality, style and craftsmanship. Just wait until tomorrow or Tuesday when I show what he helped me with. Lets just say he turned a Busse into a blade I'd be proud of carrying and using hard. Yes, I said Busse.
 
mr. lucius, thanks for those pages, i've seen the second, but never the first. interesting information!

TJ, i like the golden tone of a light colored wood with a heavy linseed oil coating, so this won't be stained. looking at them side by side, they aren't as alike as i originally intended, but the new handle feels good, if a bit beefier, so i am pleased with the changes that happened.
 
Good good, I like to see the grain real well whenever possible. Let us know when you fit it up, id love to see the finished product!
 
Making handles can be tricky, but you sound like you've got it coverd.
Going to do anything fancy to it?:D
 
Simon,

Seems to me like you would want to leave it oversized before it is fully dry and then do final shaping? The wood may shrink right?

TF
 
First of all Simon, you rock!

Second, I think, and I stand to be corrected, that accelerating the drying process might compromise the integrity of the wood and make it more prone to splitting. I would wrap the ends tightly, hang it in your garage and contine in the fall :(.
 
TF, i am going to finish up the handle, but i'm not going to shape the eye until i'm ready to hang it.

Marcelo, thanks!
i'm going to let it dry naturally for a while, and then try to dry it a little bit more. i tested it, and it doesn't fit in the oven anyways...

i'm going to keep it in the basement for a while (damp-ish), then move it into the main house (dry). i will probably let it dry for at least a couple of months...if i can wait that long!
 
Nice job Sig

Maple get pretty tough.

did you worry about the direction the grain is running.

Only a a 7 inch log it may no runn just perfect but out to be plenty sturdy. :thumbup:


Pat
 
One of the rules of thumb when drying wood is to seal the ends with wax, latex paint or even glue. This is so the ends won't dry out faster thant he rest of the wood. Imagine the wood being made of tiny straws running the length of the wood. If you seal the ends, it will dry slower, but you probably won't have checking (cracking) going on. You should also wait a bit, maybe a couple months if you're gonna let it air dry.

To speed it along, some folks put the wood they're drying in a black plastic bag. Set it in the sun and it'll heat up like it would in a kiln. Flip the bag inside out every couple days and you'll have drier wood in a shorter amount of time. You run the risk of some warpage, but since you said that it was on the stout side, you can probably even it out down the line.

Good luck! It looks like a great project.
 
pbwilson, thanks for the tip on the garbage bag in the sun, that's a good idea.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top