New-bie question on sharpening...

Originally posted by Sando

Oh yeah, buy this and use it!

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&product_id=63-1133
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This is sooo true! Just 2 weeks ago I put together a paper wheel system and was trying it out on different blades - from the cheapest supermarket paring knife to a D2 blade at 61 RC. I got out that magnifier and started looking at what I was getting compared to doing it on stones. It's amazing what you can see at 60x mag on what looks like a perfectly polished edge. BTW, this also proved to me how well stropping really works.

But zooming up to 100x and then looking at what you thought was the perfect edge wil make you realize how wrong you were! Especially for us older guys whose eyes aren't too great to start with. I think I'll stay at 60x.

For $10, everyone should have one. Just don't blame me or Steve when it takes you at least twice as long to sharpen something 'cause you can see places where it "just ain't right yet" :)
 
I'm really glad you guys found the microscope useful. I found out about them on the other forum. I've been like kid looking at stuff (looking at thread in fabic is loads of fun.)

I'm still testing a new knife, but so far it's quite amazing. I set the first edge on the belt grinder. Then 1000 grit waterstone. Use the microscope to make sure the edge was perfect. Then the 2000 stone. Edge almost perfect (I got impatient and the last 1/2" from the tip isn't as good as it could be.)

Then a little work with a leather belt charged with green chrome. Under the microscope there is the smallest hint of extra smoothing right at the edge.

I did some free hanging paper cutting, then 25' of cardboard, the free hanging paper. It still pops hairs. I need to do some more cardboard, I think. Point is I am more and more convinced that the last stages of sharpening need to be as gentle as possible, smallest burr, slow process. The steel just lasts longer.

Steve
 
Thanks again guys...I am learning so much stuff.

I don't double bevel. Heck it's hard enough to get one good one! From the sound of your questions I think you think it's necessary. I don't think most makers do that.
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I like the double bevel. It seems to have made the difference with using my crappy sharpening tools. With a double bevel I have been able to shave hair with the use of my crappy tools; I was not able to do this with a single bevel.

I may change my mind. of course, after I get that magnifier from Radioshack and some better tools. I'll try stropping like you (Sando) suggested. Nice explaination and diagrams, btw!


Now I am curious still about stones. The Shapton stones look good. They are Ceramic Wetstones, correct. But...how do those differ from Japanse Waterstones, India stones, or Arkansas stones. I still am not finding an explaination on the difference between those stones.

Question also about leather hones. That was a good link, to, btw. But, what differentiates a leather hone from a regular old strip of leather? What is it they do to the leather hones to make them special?

Sorry for all the questions....I am just learning a lot by asking them!

Thanks again,

PAUL
 
The leather hone that Handamerica sells is the correct size and texture for sharpening and is on a base that is made of an exotic wood, can't remember which wood. Mine has a rough and fine side, never used the rough side.
Almost any smooth leather will work Paul.
There are some excellent responses to sharpening on this thread!
I like using a belt sander if I have lots of knives to sharpen.
 
I too recommend handamerica. I bought their 1x30 leather belts because a friend told me they are superior to anything else. I think that they are way better that the other two I bought plus they have the green cromium oxide with them. I would think that their other stropping products are of the same quality. I really beleive using a strop is important.
 
Originally posted by Paul Janulis
Now I am curious still about stones. The Shapton stones look good. They are Ceramic Wetstones, correct. But...how do those differ from Japanse Waterstones, India stones, or Arkansas stones. I still am not finding an explaination on the difference between those stones.
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Arkansas are natural stones, normally used with oil (though some used them dry, including myself). Waterstones are man made, when wet they form an abrasive paste on the surface, they sharpen nice but wear down and have to be reshaped, some people consider them the best. India is a trade mark from Norton, it is a man made stone of Aluminum Oxide. Ceramic stones are also man made, I really like them since they work well dry, are easy to clean and very durable. Diamond hones are made by somehow covering a sheet of metal with diamond dust, they are very abrasive so they work faster and are good for the new super-steels, they should be used with light pressure, otherwise the diamond dust will fall off.
 
Don's got it nailed.

I'd just like to add that there is a little more variety to waterstones than suggested. There are natural waterstones from Japan. You don't see them because they cost a fortune in the finer grits - they are almost mined out.

The Shapton waterstones are designed to work without a slurry. Just water floating on top. And they don't wear as fast as the old fashioned waterstones.

You'll notice in Don's excellent post that he didn't say what's absolutely better, only preferences. It's a religious discussion, like PC vs. Mac.

BTW I strongly suggest you start with the scary sharp system.
http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/scary.html

There is a minimal outlay of cash. You can practice. Get excellent results. Then you can spend the bucks on an EdgePro or high quality stones or whatever.


Steve

BTW Paul, your byline reads a bit nasty. Do you live in a bad neighborhood?
 
Originally posted by tmickley
The angle will vary with the edge pro also.
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With the greatest respect this statement is incorrect if you use the Edge Pro and follow the maker's instructions.

Sando's great illustrations show the angle changes on a clamp system.
However the design of the edge pro allows the operator to move the blade so that even with a long hunter, the edge angle will stay constant from the tip to the choil.
 
Sando: Thanks for the advise again. I think I am going to use the scary sharp system and have some fun with it for a while!

btw...about my sig; I don't live in bad neighborhoods, just near them (Detroit, Pontiac). I have had some interesting jobs in the city, but I am smart enough not to live there!

As to my signature, I read it somewhere, so it's just my sick sense of humor at work! :p

Don: Thanks for the description!
 
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