We blend the backbone to the rocker in the open position, so It should be flush all the way down when open. When closed there can be some high/low on the rocker due to tolerance stack ups. Give a call into us tomorrow and we will take care of it asap.
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New buck 110 5160 drop point question
- Thread starter MI Yeti
- Start date
We blend the backbone to the rocker in the open position, so It should be flush all the way down when open. When closed there can be some high/low on the rocker due to tolerance stack ups. Give a call into us tomorrow and we will take care of it asap.
- Joined
- Jun 29, 1999
- Messages
- 9,839
Buck's warranty is the best in the business. But I wouldn't worry about that discrepancy myself. Let us know how the 5160 performs. I would buy one in 52100 in a heartbeat, but 5160 also has a solid reputation for toughness.
Got the replacement a couple days ago. The lock bar was about the same, but the edge grind was far more even on the replacement. I figured that since the replacement was hand picked that I was not getting anything better anyhow.
I used the replacement 110 for the past couple days cutting a few apples, making a couple sandwiches, cutting cheese and ham for crackers, cutting tape, just boring day to day stuff trying to start a patina on the 5160 blade. I also worked it open and closed some to start getting it smoothed out. No beating it through a log with a club or any of that kind of nonsense.
After two days the blade rattles around a lot when closed and hits one side. The blade can be pushed into either side without much effort. The spring tension has gotten weak enough that I can open it with one thumb, and seems to be getting weaker. When locked open there is a good bit of side to side play that was not there when I first got it. Enough that it clunks around. Vertical play is minimal but is also increasing quickly like the rest of the blade play. There is a large gap on each side of the lock bar. Wide enough that I can stick printer paper in the gap.
I'm at a loss here, I just don't understand how it is this bad. What is going on at Buck?
video of the closed blade play. I don't have anything to hold my phone to get a video of the blade play when open.
I used the replacement 110 for the past couple days cutting a few apples, making a couple sandwiches, cutting cheese and ham for crackers, cutting tape, just boring day to day stuff trying to start a patina on the 5160 blade. I also worked it open and closed some to start getting it smoothed out. No beating it through a log with a club or any of that kind of nonsense.
After two days the blade rattles around a lot when closed and hits one side. The blade can be pushed into either side without much effort. The spring tension has gotten weak enough that I can open it with one thumb, and seems to be getting weaker. When locked open there is a good bit of side to side play that was not there when I first got it. Enough that it clunks around. Vertical play is minimal but is also increasing quickly like the rest of the blade play. There is a large gap on each side of the lock bar. Wide enough that I can stick printer paper in the gap.
I'm at a loss here, I just don't understand how it is this bad. What is going on at Buck?
pjsjr
Gold Member
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- Jan 2, 2005
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- 7,483
I suggest that you do as Jeff Hubbard suggests. In another case he ask that the knife be sent to his attention. He has taken care of the situation. The folks at Buck do care and will take care of you.
Yeah I will get in contact with buck. I gave the dealer a chance and they did what they could. I did think of returning it and buying somthing else, but I really want a 110 like this.
Edit I took and uploaded a photo showing the gaps.
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Makael
Loving wife, kids and life.
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- Oct 17, 2015
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Deleted. Unfortunately things happen. Now how a person handles it shows alot.
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Yeah I will get in contact with buck. I gave the dealer a chance and they did what they could. I did think of returning it and buying somthing else, but I really want a 110 like this.
Edit I took and uploaded a photo showing the gaps.
I would recommend managing your expectations.
I've owned a lot of lock backs. Mostly from Buck. A good number from Schrade USA. Handful of others.
Most lock backs lock up like bank vault. Some don't. I think this is an issue with the basic design of a lock back. It's bigger than any one manufacturer and just sort of inherent in the design.
In particular, most of my Bucks are rock solid in their lock up. The Copper and Clad Aluminum bolster 110 I've been carrying daily for several years snaps up tighter than can be. But then, I got a Copper and Clad drop point flat ground 110 that had massive lateral play and some vertical play. Sent it back to Buck and it came better... but far from tight. Still has noticeable lateral play when locked up - enough so that I notice it when I use it.
I still recommend you sending it back to Buck, obviously. But I also understand it if you don't. I'm a busy person. My time isn't free and I've got a lot of time commitments I need to meet. Contacting a vendor on a warranty claim and packing something up and getting out on errands to send things in the post... all of that competes with other things in my busy day to day life. Perhaps someday I'll have enough spare time to get around to send that knife back to Buck a second time. Right now, it sits in my knife roll waiting for that day. And in the mean time, I'm carrying my Aluminum 110.
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