new fixed blade

RescueRiley

RescueRiley

Joined
Mar 22, 2006
Messages
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Just got back from m survival course with survival resources..it was awesome I primarily used a fallkniven f1 as my primary fixed blade and it workesdperfectly.....I can't seem to get quite as precise an edge on it as I can get with my carbon blades (such as my mini canadian) it also has slightly too much belly for my needs.which got me thinking about possibly looking in to something new I'm in no way dissapponted wth the performance of the f1 it took a beating and still has a thousand dollar smile. I was looking at the brkt fox river, or northstar on the larger end, or the little creek, or omf knife on the smaller end. or possibly going into an ntirely different direction and getting a pukko leuke combo... or I might just keep using the f1, and save up for 1 with custom handles down the road.. Just wanted to collect some thoughts, Thanks
 
Sounds like you may need to get a custom. There's nothing like putting your design down on paper and having it made to your specs. There are so many great makers on here that do excellent work and don't charge an arm and a leg.
If you don't want to go custom, companies like BRK&T have tons of models to choose from, it's like being in a candy store :)
 
RescueRiley said:
Just got back from m survival course with survival resources..it was awesome I primarily used a fallkniven f1 as my primary fixed blade and it workesdperfectly.....I can't seem to get quite as precise an edge on it as I can get with my carbon blades (such as my mini canadian) it also has slightly too much belly for my needs.which got me thinking about possibly looking in to something new I'm in no way dissapponted wth the performance of the f1 it took a beating and still has a thousand dollar smile. I was looking at the brkt fox river, or northstar on the larger end, or the little creek, or omf knife on the smaller end. or possibly going into an ntirely different direction and getting a pukko leuke combo... or I might just keep using the f1, and save up for 1 with custom handles down the road.. Just wanted to collect some thoughts, Thanks
Click to expand...

Did ya see the custom that someone had Justin at Ranger knives make him with the Scandi grind ?
I'm bettin the price was real good as well !!!
 
riley--- i think that the barkie northstar would fit the bill... it's an awesome all around knife... i have one in osage...:D
 
The OMF is a great Barkie, but there haven\'t been any made in quite a while. They are very hard to find right now.

You might look at the Bark River TUSK if you want a knife with zero belly. The Northstar and Aurora/Nebula have nice long straight edges too.
 
TL I found tha the area from the boint to the apex pf the belly is rounded so accutely and so close to the point of the knife that I had a hard time utilizing the point for certain tasks...Did I phrase that in a way that makes sense it seems a litle confusing....don't get me wrong..... I would without a doubt trust my a@$ to an f1 it is a heck of a blade. I like the easier sharpenability of carbon, and might be startig to lean towards something with a more classic look... I don't know maybe I'm just being picky.
 
How about one of these.

r100.jpg


Carbon steel. 59-51 RC. Rossili (Finnland)
 
pitdog said:
Did ya see the custom that someone had Justin at Ranger knives make him with the Scandi grind ?
I'm bettin the price was real good as well !!!
Click to expand...

What is the appeal to a Scandi grind. Not trying to start a fight, trying to find out from someone who obviously thinks highly of it and can tell me the advantages.

I also don't mean to hijack the thread. If someone wants to start a seperate thread on this then by all means.

Regards,
KR
 
RescueRiley said:
TL I found tha the area from the boint to the apex pf the belly is rounded so accutely and so close to the point of the knife that I had a hard time utilizing the point for certain tasks...Did I phrase that in a way that makes sense it seems a litle confusing.....
Click to expand...

...........ummmmm...............WHAT ?!?!?

What tasks, specifically, did you find the belly to pose a problem and how?

thanks. I'm just trying to understand what you're trying to say.

.
 
You may want to look at my post in fixed blade knives for sale, I have two Mountain Man knives, mostly refering to the sheath design. But one has two knives in one sheath to give you more versitility in slection of a knife for the task when in the field.
pic below

Full1.jpg


Fullw-sheath.jpg
 
I favor the Bark River Aurora myself. Partly because it's a spearpoint, the belly is not that acute. It's made of carbon steel. The handle is ergonomically contoured for a secure grip.

I especially like that it has just a tiny choil. The cutting edge comes almost all the way to the handle, providing favorable leverage and fine control.
 
kr1 said:
What is the appeal to a Scandi grind. Not trying to start a fight, trying to find out from someone who obviously thinks highly of it and can tell me the advantages.

I also don't mean to hijack the thread. If someone wants to start a seperate thread on this then by all means.

Regards,
KR
Click to expand...

A Scandi grind just seems to bite in better when cutting wood and when it's time to re-sharpen them you will find you can do it with your eyes closed as you just lay the single bevel on the stone and away you go, no guess work !!!
 
pitdog said:
A Scandi grind just seems to bite in better when cutting wood and when it's time to re-sharpen them you will find you can do it with your eyes closed as you just lay the single bevel on the stone and away you go, no guess work !!!
Click to expand...

are bark river knives scandi grinds usually?
 
k-spar said:
are bark river knives scandi grinds usually?
Click to expand...

No bro they are Convex which is also a great grind for cutting most mediums.
The slight disadvantage (IMO) of a Convex is when it comes to re-sharpening as they are a little harder to do, however this is not a problem until they get really bad as a Convex is easy to touch up on a strop etc !!!
 
pitdog said:
No bro they are Convex which is also a great grind for cutting most mediums.
The slight disadvantage ( IMO ) of a Convex is when it comes to re-sharpening as they are a little harder to do.
Click to expand...

doh i thought convex and scandi were the same thing. I'm still getting used to this
 
k-spar said:
doh i thought convex and scandi were the same thing. I'm still getting used to this
Click to expand...

No worries bro, we are all learning stuff all the time on these forums,that's what makes them interesting !!!:D:thumbup:
 
pitdog said:
No bro they are Convex which is also a great grind for cutting most mediums.
The slight disadvantage (IMO) of a Convex is when it comes to re-sharpening as they are a little harder to do, however this is not a problem until they get really bad as a Convex is easy to touch up on a strop etc !!!
Click to expand...

Actually, I find the convex easier to sharpen - just use a stropping motion on a piece of 1500 or 2000 grit wet/dry on top of a mouse pad.

I got a Northstar recently, and it is pretty awesome.:thumbup:
 
The so-called "Scandi grind" is a saber primary grind with no secondary bevel. So you have some of the blade with parallel sides and a single "V" ground out right down to the edge. As stated, you can lay that final bevel flat on a stone and grind away to restore the edge.

Because this final bevel often begins halfway up the height of the blade, it is not especially acute in many such knives as compared to a full-flat or full convex grind on the same thickness of stock. Just geometry. In very thin stock, like a MORA would use, it can be like a razor - in several respects. (But the majority of MORA's I have bought have a secondary bevel. Ditto for Helle, Iisakki, EKA, Roselli, Pontus, Trond, Brusletto )

Relatively few knives are made in Scandinavia with a "Scandi grind." The vast majority have a small secondary bevel (Sometimes called a "micro bevel" when you trying to minimize it's presence.) to make the edge stronger in actual use. Several Scandinavian makers have posted at the "home" of Scandi, BritishBlades, explaining why this is so, but they seem to be largely disregarded as a matter of belief.

A true "Scandi griand" should make a good wood-carving tool. After all, chisels are sharpened this way. However, it is worth noting that, after examining, by now, several dozen knives used by professional wood-workers, very few (2) had a Scandi grind. That is because free-hand sharpening tends, over time, to convex the edge -- the sum of many "errors" in angle. They don't have time for jigs.
 
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