New Folder Design

Rick Haney Design

Rick Haney Design

Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Messages
518
Hey Guys,This is a design I've drawn.I have a working template to check fit,This is the first design I plan on making.I've been a modelmaker for 15 years,Now I have the knife bug real bad!I enjoy the designing process,Now it's time to take my ideas,And turn them into reality.The fun begins!






Rick Haney Design
 
folder design.jpg
 
Thanks,Gabe!I plan on S-30V for the blade,Black G-10 for the scale material,Probably .062 6AL Ti liners.Let me know what you think.
 
Pretty cool! I have quite simple tastes, so I would probably try to simplify the design a bit, but I bet a lot of people would love it as is.
 
Nice work :)
Looks pretty neat, and thats a quality drawing.

I think your going to want to move your screw for the scales back so that its centered over the hump between finger grooves. Gives you more room to work with cutting the slot in the liner.
I'd take a divider, or compass or something and check out the corner of the tang that hits the stop pin too. If you put the pin on the pivot point you can trace the arc it makes to see where it will be when the knife is closed. It looks like you have it right on, but there isn't much extra room. Easy way to make sure its not going to be sticking out.
 
Matt,I didn't have much room to play with in placing the screw location for the scales.Would it not crowd them too close together if I moved it back a tad?I worked on the stop pin location on my template,Yes the corner of the tang was sticking out a little when it is closed.That seems to be the most challenging part of designing a folder,But I guess It's better to work out the details with your template.I designed the blade to close just short of the lanyard hole.For the traction grooves,I thought the best way to do that would be to drill the holes in the liner,Then profile it.What do you think?
 
It wouldn't hurt anything to move the scale screw back. You could even move it back and up so that along with the other scale screw and the pivot screw, you divide the handle in even thirds, and have the screws layed out in an arc that matches the back of the handle.

Thumb notches, are going to be the easiest part:) Your idea on drilling holes would probably work fine. You could also just file them in with a chainsaw file or something.

If your using standoffs/spacers rather than a solid spine you could put on near the butt of the handle and tie a lanyard to it if you want one. That takes care of the blade overlapping that hole.

Make sure when you radius the edges of the scales and cut the traction grooves that you take the counterbore for the stop pin into acount. I guess if you use thick enough liners it wouldn't be too difficult to just have it go through them and be flush under the scales. I like to have it go into the scale a little on each side to eliminate any chance of it popping out if the knife is torqued or flexed.
 
How would you guys cut the thumb hole?Drill out,File with a escarpment file or have it laser cut?Is there a source for a knurled thumb stud like I have diagramed?I originally planned on a solid spacer,but a standoff spacer may be the way to go.Thanks.







Rick Haney Design
 
Capy,make the knife exactly how you want to make it!
I found out along time ago that no matter what you come up with some folks will want to change it or won't like it.
Go with what you want to make and see what your customers say.
If they like the design enough to buy it, you did well!

All the knife making suppliers sell knurled thumb bobs.
As far as the thumb hole, if you have access to a milling machine, thats the way I'd do the bulk of it. Then clean the edges up with files.
I've used both stand offs and solid spacers and prefer solid spacers. Plus if you use 1/8" precision ground steel for the blade and use 15 thousandths washers, you can buy 5/32" precision ground 440c and use that for the spacer. Kit Carson taught me that trick, it sure is handy to know!
 
Micheal,I agree with you on doing it in your own style & techniques of construction.Your use of different materials & how you put it all together is the artist's signature,Taking a design and making a piece of art that is functional appeals to me alot!I'm always amazed at the high degree of style & fit & finish many knifemakers can achieve!Coming from a modelmaking background(jewelry)Knifemaking to me,is a logical next step.I'm real excited about making some knives soon!I recently purchased a cheapo drill press& 2x48 grinder,eventually a grinder with the capabilities to hollow grind.More tools!:)



Nathan,I used good ole pencil & grid paper.I've done illustration for years.Recently I've been playing around with some 3d rendering,Even with my experience drawing,There's alot I need to learn!:confused: If you need any designs drawn,Let me know.:D Rick
 
Looks like a great knife. Keep us posted on the progress.
 
Burchtree,Thanks.I hope to get started in a week or so,Need to get a few more tools.BTW,Did you decide which Mini-Mill you're going to go with?Your thread got me looking too!Grizzly looks good.I'm not a machinist,I need to research a little more.Maybe after I get the hang of the Cad/3d designing,It wiil be interesting to see what it will do. I like some of the texturing some knifemakers are getting using a Mill& CNC.It's another tool you can be creative with.I can see the designs in my head,Trying to learn new skills to apply it to.Rick.
 
I probably won't get one for now -- gotta save for new grinder, and the Blade Show. I think I'd probably go with the Grizzly one. I checked it out the other day, and it just seems more robust.
 
Burchtree,I'll be going to Blade.We need to get together & talk knives,Look for me at the Karambit.com booth.I'm hanging out with Randall 16-1,Looking forward to meeting as many knifemakers I can during the weekend.I'll also have a karambit collaboration with Jeff Hall,Check his booth.He's a real nice guy to talk to,And does real nice work too!Rick.
 
Sounds good -- of course, I'm not so much as a knifemaker as a "slap some crap together and call it a knife-maker."
 
Rick
Thanks for the offer,I also draw mine on paper.I use just plan white paper and go to town,I drew 2 prototypes last night It toke me 3 hours to do it,I must have change it 20 times before I got what I
was looking for but it all came out,now it comes the time to take what was on paper and put it on steel.;)
 
Nathan,I find it easier for me to use grid paper.helps me keep a visual guide on proportions,center.I'm anxious to get started on turning my designs into steel also!I will more than likely start on a few fixed blade designs,Making a folder is a little more involved. Rick.
 
Rick
I agree I will start with fixed also,I have designs in my head
for some folders,but first I will pay my dues with fixed blades maybe about 3 years down the road I will spin off into so folders
until then I will learn as much as I can about knife making.
You have some very nice lines in your design,seeing it come to fruit is the best part:)
 
Nathan,Been liking your knife art for as long as I been on this great forum of information!It's been real fun to be around artists with different styles!:D Knifemakers are artists from different backgrounds,You have a real diversatity in creative input.I'm totally hooked! :D :D I'm looking for you guys to help me along!:)Rick.
 
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