new grinder(had the shakes)

balibalistic

balibalistic

Joined
Jul 14, 2004
Messages
2,623
Well,i recieved my grinder a couple of week's ago.from the second i fired it up it had a wobble to it..,after squaring up the drive wheel's the shaking was minimal,i figured it would be fine after bolting it down.i bolt it down today,fire it up and quickly realized my shaking was a bigger problem.

my drive wheel on grinder is completely cracked!! could i have caused this?im thinking it had to be like this from the get go,that would explain the wobble??

P1060342_edited.jpg
 
Look closely at it and look for marks from a punch or hammer. I think I see some nicks on the lower right of both the inside flande and the outside flange. It may have been a fairly tight fit and was driven on improperly.

Did you install it on the shaft, or was it installed when you got it?

Ickie
 
Could be anything, flawed, shipping damage? who knows. $5.00 for a new one at a hardware store. Lets see if thats all it is. :)
 
MSC has a nice assortment of pulleys. Also called sheaves. ~$10
 
Thank's guy's!

Scott, this pulley was in place when i recieved it,i just checked it over to make sure it was tightened down.The scratches you see where caused after it gave out,from me trying to get it off! the key moves fine,pulley wont budge!!

Kelly,i'm going in a couple hours to see if i can find a new one locally,but i'd like to order a good set of step pulley's.
 
These die cast pulleys are very inexpensive, and readily available. Sometimes they run true and sometimes they wobble like crazy. You just never know what you going to get with them. I think it is possible that this one could have just simply broke...but more than likely it was damaged before it was run. You can try a new one for $5 at your local home hardware store....and keep you fingers crossed, hoping that it will run smooth....or bite the bullet and opt for a premium, cast iron, machined and balanced pulley from an industrial supplier at a cost of $10-20.
 
If you can't budge it I would bet someone drove it on and cracked it in the process. An easy way to get it off would be to use a grinder to cut a slit running with the shaft. over the key way slot and once you are close it should split on its own or you could tap in a wedge and split it. A puller might get it or just break up the rim some more.
 
Thank's for the tip ib2!

Knut Lie,the fellow who built my machine is sending me cast iron pulley's :thumbup:
 
Go to Harbor Freight or a similar discount tool store and get a small bearing puller. They're inexpensive (maybe $5 to $10). You'll be able to grip onto the sheave and use the shaft to pull against. Much better than trying to hammer it off or cut it off.

Ickie
 
Keith_H said:
Over all do you recommend the grinder? thanks.
Click to expand...

To be honest,im not quite sure yet!i'd like to actually use it before i give an opinion on that.

i've had it two week's and had to wait a week for belt's.as soon as i had time to do some grinding this happened.
 
When I ordered my Coote, I had a horrible time finding step pulleys. I went through about 4 sets of those cast alumunim POS things (no name and Browning - none were balanced or true). I don't know where you're living, but I eventually gave up and went to Kinecor here in Calgary (www.kinecor.com) and bought a set of Maska 3 step pulleys (machined cast steel, balanced and true). Trust me, I spent more on those cast aluminum things than it would have cost to just get a decent set in the first place.

I also had vibration issues with my Coote, which seems to be a fairly common issue with the 2-wheel type grinders. I think this is largely due to the small footprint of the machine - about a 4x5" "foot" which bolts the machine down. To get rid of this vibration, I mounted the grinder to a 1x6x6" steel block that was drilled and tapped to fit the mounting foot on the grinder. This block also raises the machine to give clearance for the contact wheel. The mounting block is then welded to a piece of 1/4" steel plate (approx. 24x32") which has holes drilled every 6-8 inches around the perimeter to screw it down to the work bench. The motor mount consists of a piece of 1" cold-rolled square stock welded to the base plate, 2 3" weld-on hinges (from acklands-grainger) and a piece of 3/8" plate drilled to fit the baseplate of the motor. I'm using a Coote 10x72, and a 1.5hp leeson farm-duty motor. With this setup, I get no vibration at all. Sorry about all the dust and dirt in the pics, I've been busy.

Nathan
 
You can heat an aluminum pulley to get it off a shaft. About 400 deg on the pulley may alloy you to simply pull it off with a gloved hand. There is less heat transfer to the shaft than you might expect.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
You can heat an aluminum pulley to get it off a shaft. About 400 deg on the pulley may alloy you to simply pull it off with a gloved hand. There is less heat transfer to the shaft than you might expect.
Click to expand...

Thank's for the tip! i will give it a try,cause she aint budging.

Ndallyn: how slow can you run your grinder with the step pulley set up?
 
You might want to give Norm Coote a call. He can tell you EXACLTY what the speeds of for instance the step pullies he carries with a speed of motor will yield surface feet/minute.
www.cootebeltgrinder.com

Phone/Fax 360-437-0366
coote@cablespeed.com

His pullies work well IMO and aren't very expensive at all. I've been using my setup for almost 2 years now and have never had vibration issues with the 8inch wheel.
 
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