New Guy handle/pins Help

J

Jsmalley9

Joined
Jun 14, 2016
Messages
77
Hey BF,

First I just want to start by saying that I am incredibly thankful for this community. I haven't posted much but I have read through tons and tons of posts in order to learn how to get my start making my very own knives. This community is so amazing! In my limited personal experience and reading through the experiences of others, I have witnessed an unbelievable amount of support from everyone - so I just wanted to be sure to express my gratitude. Hopefully in the future (at the rate I'm going it will be very distant) I'll be able to pass along some of the knowledge I've picked up a long the way.

I do have to say though that as I am about to embark on creating my very first blade - and purchasing the necessary supplies - I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed and confused. For a little background on what I plan to make: I'm looking to create a roughly 9 inch fixed blade with a black canvas micarta handle. I've sketched out my basic design already, but where I am struggling is with attaching the handle. More specifically on what my best option for attaching the micarta, whether that be with corby rivets, handle pins, or some other method. Ideally I would like to do it cheap as possible, without purchasing rivet drills or what have you. This is my first knife so I have never used corby rivets, loveless bolts, or any of the other options. Honestly, I'm not entirely familiar with the way that attaching scales using corby rivets works, but that seems to be a very important skill that I am going to have to learn. I very much like the looks of large plain handle pins (similar to Bark River micarta handles) and I can't seem to find pins that are as large as the heads on corby rivets. I also am struggling with how large I should drill my tang holes, because obviously that will depend on what I end up using. If someone could steer me in the right direction I would very very much appreciate it.

Thanks,
Josh
 
I've never used corby bolts. I have always just used 24 hour epoxy, I use G-Flex, and pins, but I sand the tang with an 80 grit paper and use a dremel to make some grooves in the scale that touches the tang. Usually brass and they aren't to expensive. I use 1/8" but it sounds like that's smaller diameter than you want. Jantz Knife Supply has 1/4" brass pins 12" long for $2. Although Home Depot or Lowes may have some cheaper, but you'll probably have to buy 3 feet of it. But it'll probably only be like $5-6. I drill the tang holes a standard size bigger (so from 1/4", I'd go up to 5/16") than the pin stock and the scales are the smallest size that the pin will fit into. Depends on the actual pin stock you have as they usually aren't held to very tight tolerances.
 
Welding shops have brass and stainless steel rods in several different sizes. If you use 1/8" use a #30 drill. If you use 1/4" use a F drill. The pins should be lightly sanded to get the surface rough so the epoxy will have something to stick to.
 
You don't need special drills for Corby rivets. Regular bits will work just fine.
You DO want a good mechanical bond with your pins/rivets. Gluing them in with epoxy is the amateur's way. Peen your pin heads or use screw-down fasteners.
 
If you order corby bolts from pops knife supply he sells the counterbore for $10 or so. It is well worth it. I use the 3/16" headed ones with an 1/8" shaft. Use those and epoxy and you'll be set.
 
Welcome to the club. New to knife building myself and I have made 5 blades with no handles because of the same thing you ran into. I bought some zebra wood scales, G-flex epoxy and have pins on order. I think this is going to be a process of trial and error until you figure out your niche.
 
I made my first 10 or so knives with just brass or copper rods and epoxy. You can get them cheap from amazon, or in the specialty hardware drawers at Lowe's. None of those knives have had an issue yet. Now I mainly use corby bolts and counterbores from pops. If you plan on making more knives good bores and mechanical fasteners are worth the small investment. Plus you don't need to clamp the scales after glue up. Added bonus.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 
If you are going to use Corby bolts, Loveless bolts, Acorn nuts or the variants that require two different size holes and you want to use a special step drill to simplify the process here is something you may want to do: I have 1/4 and 5/16 Corbys and 5/16s Loveless bolts and a couple other similar fasteners and I forget the step drill sizes after a while so I now put the fasteners in a small plastic bag with a label and I also put the step drill for that fastener in the same bag and keep them all in a plastic box. Now when want to use certain fastener I have the proper drill with it and I don't make stupid mistakes with expensive wood. Seems obvious to do but I have already made the mistake and ruined a lovely pair of scales. Never again. Larry
 
Awesome advice everyone, I really appreciate it. The only bits I had ran across were from Jantz for around $20 and I really preferred to avoid purchasing that considering it was more expensive than anything else that I had purchased thus far to build the knife. I figured I would learn to do it by hand with files and paper and the grinder that I have before I go out and purchase a bunch of equipment before I know it I'm even capable of making a good knife :)

I hadn't ran across Pop's knife supply in my searches and so I'm really glad that I've been given this tip from a few of you. I'm going to try and buy as much as I can from that site so that I can get everything at once.

Another question if I may - I'm going to be using 1/8 stock 1095 (sending out for heat treat). I don't have a good reason for choosing this steel, just kind of what I came up with. I am planning on buying the 1/4 inch thick micarta - is that probably the right thickness for a regular old handle? I'm going to shape it up a bit of course but I don't have a simple way to thin it out that I am aware of if it is too thick. I'm planning on making a roughly 9 inch drop point, kind of a cross between a Bravo 1 LT, ESEE 5, and Mora Companion (I'll post a pic when I can). I'm going to attempt to expose some of the tang and also have a lanyard tube in the scales. Would I be better off going with a thinner profile on the handle or is 1/4 inch what I'm looking for?
 
1/4" Micarta on a 1/8" tang will give you a 5/8" thick handle. That is not particularly thick, but works OK.

A good way to "test" a knife shape and handle is to cut it out in cardboard and do a mock-up. Glue on a couple layers of corrugated cardboard for the handle. Even better is a few bucks worth of balsa wood from the hobby shop. Buy a 1/8" sheet for your blade steel and a 1/4" sheet for handle stock. That way you can file/sand the complete knife for getting the idea of how it will look and feel. They will make a bunch of prototypes. Use the finished prototype for marking the steel and comparison when making the knife
 
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When I first started knifemaking all I would use to attach scales to a full tang were corby bolts or loveless bolts. Then at a knife show I spoke with several successful knifemakers and they said pins would hold the handle on just fine. Since that time I have used pins either 1/8" or 1/4" on over 1000 knives. There has been absolutely no problem with the handles coming off.
I sand the pins to give the epoxy something to hold on to. There have been a few times I have needed to replace a handle and it was very difficult with the pins holding it on.
If you look at the 37th editin of KNIVES which is advertised as "The worlds greatest knife book" you will find some handles with corby or loveless bolts, but there will be plenty with pins. Including two of my own knives on pg. 106 and 153.
Lots of knifemakers including myself like to use mosaic pins and they hold just fine.
 
Jsmalley9 said:
Awesome advice everyone, I really appreciate it. The only bits I had ran across were from Jantz for around $20 and I really preferred to avoid purchasing that considering it was more expensive than anything else that I had purchased thus far to build the knife. I figured I would learn to do it by hand with files and paper and the grinder that I have before I go out and purchase a bunch of equipment before I know it I'm even capable of making a good knife :)

I hadn't ran across Pop's knife supply in my searches and so I'm really glad that I've been given this tip from a few of you. I'm going to try and buy as much as I can from that site so that I can get everything at once.

Another question if I may - I'm going to be using 1/8 stock 1095 (sending out for heat treat). I don't have a good reason for choosing this steel, just kind of what I came up with. I am planning on buying the 1/4 inch thick micarta - is that probably the right thickness for a regular old handle? I'm going to shape it up a bit of course but I don't have a simple way to thin it out that I am aware of if it is too thick. I'm planning on making a roughly 9 inch drop point, kind of a cross between a Bravo 1 LT, ESEE 5, and Mora Companion (I'll post a pic when I can). I'm going to attempt to expose some of the tang and also have a lanyard tube in the scales. Would I be better off going with a thinner profile on the handle or is 1/4 inch what I'm looking for?
Click to expand...

see if this helps

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1362256-To-Peen-Or-Not-To-Peen-That-s-The-Question?p=15684009#post15684009

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1387731-pin-placement-technique-mini-tutorial

you can see in post #12 how the mechanical bond is created with the head of the pin

FWIW, I'm moving away from 2 part epoxy to a silicone glue and relying on a mechanical bond of the pins. Still testing the silicone glue
 
Last edited:
It really puzzles me that people can't comprehend peening a pin head.
It's very easy, and your handle will be secure.
Epoxy MIGHT hold it for a long time. Might not.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
It really puzzles me that people can't comprehend peening a pin head.
It's very easy, and your handle will be secure.
Epoxy MIGHT hold it for a long time. Might not.
Click to expand...

I'm with you Bill, I'm doing it! :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bill DeShivs said:
It really puzzles me that people can't comprehend peening a pin head.
It's very easy, and your handle will be secure.
Epoxy MIGHT hold it for a long time. Might not.
Click to expand...

My biggest fear is splitting the scale. I split an antler scale once and have been gun-shy on doing it since.
 
kuraki said:
My biggest fear is splitting the scale. I split an antler scale once and have been gun-shy on doing it since.
Click to expand...

U have to use a tapered reamer to give the pin room to expand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
There is no need to use tapered reamers. Just a slight chamfer of the hole is all that's needed.
You never try to swell the pin- just form a head.
 
Thanks so much everyone! You all have given me quite a bit to consider and much more to read and consider, which seems to be the case with every question I have. So alas, it is further down the rabbit hole I go! Atleast for my skill level (non-existent) I think pins will be my best bet. Couple more questions if I may:

Is it possible to use copper pins? Or is copper much too soft to peen? If yes, where would I purchase such a thing that would work for use as a knife pin? I really love the look of copper.

And as far as the thong tubing is concerned, am I just going to be sanding it and glueing it in or should I gently peen the ends as well?
 
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