New guy intro.

Joined
Nov 7, 2012
Messages
29
Hi all, I hope this is in the right place.

I've been lurking for quite a while but recently had shoulder surgery so the knife making has halted and the reading/research has increased significantly. I figured it was a good time to say hi. I'm based in Canberra, Australia.

I decided in 2012 to make some knives and spent the next year getting some equipment. I got a 75kg cast steel anvil that came with an enormous 250mm 63kg bench vice! It also came with some hammers. I then went to a hammer in and built a gas forge. The forge is a 9kg gas bottle and was just the rough forge after the hammer in. Once home I cleaned it up, painted it and built a frame for it. It gets a lot hotter than pictured.

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I've since made a few more forges for other Bladesmiths in Aus. Here is a bench-top model with an improved front door. The door insulation is not in place but would be there for use. The burner is also not in place at the moment.

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A very generous member of an Aussie knife forum donated his old home built 2 x 80 inch belt grinder to me. I have since modified it for 2 x 72 belts, an adjustable tool rest and added a ceramic platen. Sadly I can't find any pics and I gifted it to another newbie just last week.

In Jan 2013 I did a knife making course at Tharwa Valley Forge and made two reasonable knives.

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There is a whole bunch that needed to be touched up on these but I chose to leave them as they are, so I can see where I started. Both 1075 steel and forged to shape.

I've since made a stock removal knife. This is 5.5mm thick at the spine with a distal taper and swedge and a slightly tapered tang, carbon fibre scales and vulcanised fibre spacers with ss corbies. A friend did the Cerakote.

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I then spent some more time out at Tharwa Valley forge and made my first damascus billet. 130 or so random pattern 1075/15n20.

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I also learnt to make mokume out there on another day. I made a nickel silver and brass piece and a nickel silver, copper and brass piece. Both 20 layers.

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This is another of two blocks I made later of the three metals. Yet to be patterned. 30 layers and about 2 x 2 inches.

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While doing this I got into stabilizing with Cactus Juice and got that set up too. I've since built a second chamber so I can run the two in a series. Works nicely and can do about 20-30 knife handle blocks at a time.

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Once I'd finished with that I made my first kitchen knife and fourth knife ever.

I used the damascus I'd made, along with some of my mokume and stabilized figured tassie oak.

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I'm a big fan of kitchen knives, having spent 10 years in the trade and made a stock removal 154CM chef knife, with a ringed gidgee handle.

I submitted these three knives to the Australian Knife guild and was pleased to be accepted as a probationary member.

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I then got to spend some time with Keith Fludder, who some of you may know, making Damascus. I've been to Keith's shed and he is a great guy and very knowledgable. We made a billet of triple stacked twisted W's and forged out a 270mm chef knife. I've since forged out another 160mm chef knife. This is the billet and larger blade.

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When I'm repaired I plan to finish these off with nickel silver fittings, mammoth ivory and ancient red-gum.

My latest knife is a forged hunter for a beginner KITH on the Aussie knife forum I'm on. It's still in need of some tidying up, but is currently off being sharpened as that is not something I can do one handed.

It's 1075 steel, brass and nickel silver mokume gane guard I made, fibre spacers, giraffe bone spacer and jarrah burl I stabilized. It's about a 5 in blade, 3.5mm wide at the Ricardo with a distal taper.

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Three days after my shoulder surgery my Wilmont little buddy 2 x 72 in grinder arrived. I am also currently having a house built and the slab has been laid for my 3 x 6 m workshop. I'm currently using the garage, so it will be awesome to have my own space that I can customise.

Some other tools I have in the shed are a 4-5 tonne fly press, pedestal drill, 220amp mig welder and assorted power and hand tools. I have also made a knife vice and eventually I will make tool rests for the grinder, a disc sander I've ordered to hook up to a VFD (along with the little buddy) and a surface grinder attachment for the little buddy too.

His is my home made knife vice. It's a handy thing!

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I'm not someone with big dreams to do this full time, I just like making knives and other useful stuff, and I'm lucky enough to have a missus who supports a rather expensive hobby and an income that doesn't allow me to splurge but does let me slowly gather things together.

Hopefully I'll be able to contribute a bit to this awesome forum and that this is of interest to some people.

Regards,

Matt
 
Wow you have got a whole lot of nice pieces there. I especially like the the last one that is pictured. Like you said this is an expensive hobby, but in time you will have all the necessary equipment and then realize you need something else. How is that cactus juice for stabilizing? I've been wanting to try it out. Your knives are looking pretty good for just starting off. I've been making knives for roughly a year now. I've been going back and forth from forging to stock removal both methods take many years to master. I always learn something new when working on a new piece.
 
Wow you have got a whole lot of nice pieces there. I especially like the the last one that is pictured. Like you said this is an expensive hobby, but in time you will have all the necessary equipment and then realize you need something else. How is that cactus juice for stabilizing? I've been wanting to try it out. Your knives are looking pretty good for just starting off. I've been making knives for roughly a year now. I've been going back and forth from forging to stock removal both methods take many years to master. I always learn something new when working on a new piece.

Thanks for the kind words. Cactus Juice is interesting stuff. If you have very dry porous timbers it works brilliantly. The jarrah burl I used on the last knife had lots of large voids and it filled some and not others without rhyme or reason. I plan to build a pressure chamber to force casting resin into larger gaps... But that's another down the road project. At the moment I just use CA glue, which works fine.

CJ certainly makes timbers much denser, easier to work and is a rewarding exercise. If you don't have a vacuum pump I'd recommend getting one of those hand pumps, a small chamber and a little bottle of juice and just try it. I had to ship the juice over so went all out with vacuum pump, chamber and 4 gallons of juice.

Bear in mind it doesn't work as well on oily or sappy timbers though.

Cheers

Matt
 
You are off to an auspicious start! Good on ya!

I like how you're exploring all the facets of the hobby before getting too deeply enmeshed in a singular way of doing things. Add to that your ability to make nice knives AND tools, and you're fast becoming the well rounded renaissance man.

Welcome to the forum.
 
You are off to an auspicious start! Good on ya!

I like how you're exploring all the facets of the hobby before getting too deeply enmeshed in a singular way of doing things. Add to that your ability to make nice knives AND tools, and you're fast becoming the well rounded renaissance man.

Welcome to the forum.

Thanks to all for a warm welcome. Trppyr I've thoroughly enjoyed your first kitchen order thread. I am on the same page as you with crafting knives, slow and steady! Less major mistakes that way.
 
Welcome! I just started using cactus juice this week and it works well on dry, soft woods. I found leaving the blocks in the juice overnight before curing helps with the voids.
 
Welcome! I just started using cactus juice this week and it works well on dry, soft woods. I found leaving the blocks in the juice overnight before curing helps with the voids.

Thanks Willie71, I'll try that. I have also found completely drying the timber in an oven or microwave prior yields better results but increases the risk of cracking/splitting. I've probably done 200+ blocks now and still learning lots!
 
The idea is that the vacuum pulls the air out, but the resin is thicker than air so it takes longer to penetrate the wood than it took to get the air out. One batch took 6 hours to get the chamber to maximum vacuum. Releasing the vacuum allows atmospheric pressure to work to your advantage. I have thought about using pressure too, but 175psi is a far cry from the 4000psi that I read the professional stabilizers use. Still 175psi is better than atmospheric pressure alone.
 
I've got some casting resin that is pretty good without any pressure at all. It's very runny so few bubbles and gets into voids nicely. I think that once stabilized even lower psi pressure should do a good job on any remaining voids. I'll be building a pressure chamber once my arm is working again. It is almost as addictive as knife making... And I do like making tools and miscellaneous 'things'!
 
Welcome to the forums, nice to have another Aussie aboard! Looks like you are getting into it wholeheartedly, I couldn't applaud that more. Keep it up!
Nice multibar twisted w's, by the way.
 
Thanks for the Welcome Salem Straub, I had a lot of assistance from Keith Fludder with that and took 4 days. It was a very steep learning curve but the man knows what he's doing! If I had all the tools I'm confident I could repeat it successfully... Sadly I don't have all the tools but I have some generous mentors and fairly regular hammer-ins so some other billets will eventuate I'm sure.
 
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