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Anything I post is either a product of my opinion, my logic, or my experience, and is never to be taken as fact unless I cite a reputable source. I assume the same of any post by any author that I've seen on this site.
Perhaps my logic is flawed - this would explain my unpopular opinions - but my experience, for what it's worth, is this:
Between work and hobbies, I have high demands set upon my knives. I've put a number of them through a reasonable amount of hard use and abuse, sometimes to the point (and I'm not proud to say this, since it usually is my fault) that they break. The thing is, the knives that break are quite consistently the flashy sort of knife in which you frequently see AO mechanisms. I wasn't trying to make an indictment of the mechanical integrity of an AO device; though in hindsight I realize I may have come off this way.
So alright, fine. No, there is nothing wrong with AO as a means of getting your knife open, and surely there are qualitative, well-built AOs out there, like Microtechs and Benchmades. Offsetlover, I've handled those same autos myself, and I agree they're intoxicating. I'm not frightened by extra moving parts, I just opt against them when I think they're unnecessary. Which is often.
Personally, I don't see AO as being necessary to the design of a folding knife, insofar as the knife is a piece of machinery. In my experience, the knives that survive abuse are the mechanically simple ones; the Sebenza was an instant hit, when I got to it, and I'm reluctantly growing more and more fond of the Strider folders as well - these would be my current workhorse and bush folders. Even before my knives got so expensive, the philosophy was the same. Spyderco and Cold Steel folders were my most successful working knives, even if they weren't my favorite knives; they're made mostly out of a few bars of metal and plastic, and a handful of rivets. Nothing fancy, but they work. Say what you will about my opinion, but those knives ought to speak for themselves.
When I say all this, I don't mean to say 'don't buy an AO knife,' because actually AOs are sporty and they do in fact make the blade open faster. (I stand by my previous remark - with practice, one tactical folder is as fast as any other worth its stripes - but that's not to say AO wouldn't help if you wanted to bypass all that extra work.) The bulk of what I said was meant to suggest that if you want your knife to really perform hard as a knife, AO is perhaps a lesser concern. The Leek and similarly sized knives will likely never be called upon to perform a task that puts their structural strength to the test, so AO, if you want it, is a perfectly good idea.
Lastly, with regard to my remark about the Emerson Wave being invariably faster than a conventional AO, I concede that this is of course not a scientifically verifiable fact. My logic was that in circumstances where speed was prioritative, fewer actions need be performed to bring a waved knife to bear, as opposed to an AO knife. An AO, like most tactical folders, still needs to be drawn and opened, while a waved knife need only be drawn - since in the course of this action, the knife is designed to open itself. I'm sorry for not having explained that statement more thoroughly.
Agreed...cruise around in the Kershaw sub-forum a while, then ask there. You'll get a lot of good advice.
If you have never had an AO before, an option might be to get one that is switchable. My Kershaw mini-cyclone has a tiny switch on the back of the handle to disable the AO, turning it into a manual opener. I always carry it with AO disabled, because I don't want the blade to accidentally open in my pocket.
If you buy the AO and later decide you don't like it, you have the option of flipping that switch.