New Guy

J. Hoffman

J. Hoffman

Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
1,798
I've been lurking for awhile and have recently started posting here. I'm really impressed with this forum and all the great info and helpful members. I live in Northeast Wisconsin, just about 30 minutes west of Green Bay (how about them Packers?). I'm looking at building my first knife and I want to do it all by hand. I've been a gun collector for many years. I bought my first custom knife from Ron Hembrook 4 or 5 years ago. For the last few years I've been buying more knives and have really come to appreciate the amount of work that goes into a knife. I've read most of the stickies in the Shop Talk forum and I'm amazed at how much I don't know and how helpful everyone seems to be. I really like knives with simple,basic lines. I'm not much for fancy, shiny knives. I prefer wood for handle material. I love simple Damascus steels also.
If anyone has any suggestions or words of encouragement, I'll be more than happy to listen.
Thanks
Jess
 
Welcome to blade forums! Read the stickies and buy some files or belts and some steel!
 
Hey, and welcome! I am new here too and the folks here are a great source of encouragement.
 
Welcome to it.

Let's see your drawings and your questions.

Have you seen this ?

The Standard Reply to New Knifemakers v12

The answer to a 13 year old student is different than to a 40 year old engineer.
We may recommend a local supplier, or you may have a helpful neighbour; but that depends on where you are. We have members worldwide.
Fill out your profile with your location (Country and State at least), age, education, employment.

Look at the threads stickied at the top; many are expired, but not all.

The basic process in the simplest terms

Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Printable PDF
Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Website


Web Tutorials
Detailed instructions by Stacy E.Apelt

The Things I Advise New Knife Makers Against-Printable PDF

Handle Tutorial - Nick Wheeler-Website

http://www.engnath.com/manframe.htm

Books

A list of books and videos on the KnifeDogs Forum
http://www.knifedogs.com/showthread.php?t=5285

BladeForums - E-books or Google books
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603203

I like:
David Boye-Step by Step Knifemaking
Tim McCreight-Custom Knifemaking: 10 Projects from a Master Craftsman
These are clear, well organized, widely available and inexpensive too.

Knife Design:
On the Google books thread, you can find
Lloyd Harding drawings
and
the Loveless book with large variety of proven classic styles.
Google books thread


Forging Books:
Lorelei Sims-The Backyard Blacksmith
An excellent modern book with colour photos for forging in general - no knifemaking.

Jim Hrisoulas- has 3 books on forging knives. Check for the cheaper paperback editions.
The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way to Perfection
The Pattern-Welded Blade: Artistry in Iron
The Master Bladesmith: Advanced Studies in Steel

Machine Shop Basics -Books:
Elementary Machine Shop Practice-Printable PDF

The Complete Practical Machinist-Printable -1885-PDF
It’s being reprinted now, you can get it for $20 ish


The $50 knife Shop
It confused me for a long time.
Forging is NOT necessary; you can just file and grind to create a knife (stock removal)

The goop quench is total Bull, commercial quench oils are available, even grocery store canola oil works much better.

Junkyard steels require skill and experience to identify the steel and heat treat it properly.
You can buy proper steel like 1084FG from Aldo very cheaply.

I like cable damascus, but that advanced project has no place in a beginner’s book.

The home built grinders are the best thing about this book, but there is now a huge amount of info for 2x72” belt grinders on the web, including free plans.


Videos

Heat Treating Basics Video-downloadable
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days and you will understand it much better.
http://www.archive.org/download/gov.ntis.ava08799vnb1/ava08799vnb1_512kb.mp4

Many specific how to knifemaking videos are available, some are better than others.

The best overall Knifemaking video I have seen is
“Steve Johnson-Making a Sub-Hilt Fighter”

The best video on leather sheath making I have seen is
“Custom Knife Sheaths -Chuck Burrows - Wild Rose”
-(Paul Long has 2 new videos, his sheath work is fantastic. I hope the videos are too)

You can see a list of videos and reviews at this rental company; some are worth buying, some renting…
They are slow to get new titles and wait times are measured in months,
http://smartflix.com/store/category/9/Knifemaking

Green Pete's Free Video
Making a Mora bushcraft knife, stock removal, hand tools, neo tribal / unplugged heat treat.
"Green Pete" posted it free using torrent files.
Be sure to look at the other titles too.

Greenpete Knifemaking Basics-on TPB

Draw Filing Demonstration
YouTube video -Draw Filing-for a flat finish

Steel
The “welding steel” at Home Depot / Lowes… is useless for knives.
If you send out for heat treating, you can use O1, A2, D2, CM154, ATS34, s30v, 440C, plus many others.

If you heat treat yourself, find some 1070, 1080, 1084,
1084 FG sold by Aldo Bruno is formulated just for knifemaking.

You can find a list of suppliers here
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=699736

Aldo is highly rated.
http://njsteelbaron.com/
Ph# 862-203-8160

Heat Treating
You can send blades out for heat treating at $10 or $15 per blade for perfect results, and avoid buying the equipment.

This PDF brochure gives a good overview
http://www.buckknives.com/resources/pdf/Paul_Bos_Brochure.pdf

http://www.petersheattreat.com/
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/privacy.php#services
http://www.knifemaker.ca/ (Canadian)

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9143684&postcount=7

Grinder / Tools

Hand Tools
You can do it all by hand with files and abrasive cloth like the Green Pete video.

Photo of a nice bevel filing jig .
http://www.flemingknives.com/imagesPrime/FileStation/KPicB007.jpg

Entry Level Grinders
Many makers start with the Sears Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921513000P?prdNo=3

Commercial Production 2 x 72” Belt Grinders
http://www.prometheanknives.com/shop-techniques-3/grinders

Mapp arm – Grinder Toolrest
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=466024


DIY 2 x 72” Belt Grinders

KMG Clone
Free Plans
http://www.dfoggknives.com/PDF/GrinderPlans.pdf

NWG No Weld Grinder
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/plans-for-the-no-weld-grinder-sander-nearly-50-pages-p-723.html

EERF Grinder (EERF =“Free” backwards)
Free plans
http://wilmontgrinders.com/EERFGrinder.aspx
http://blindhogg.com/blueprints.html
http://www.atlasknife.com


Buy the kit
http://polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit.html


Safety Equipment
I have a sign at my shop door, “Eyes, Ears, Fingers, Lungs” as a reminder to take off jewelry and put on my safety gear.

Respirators

bladsmth said:
Those paper paint masks are about as effective as using a sock for a condom.
Click to expand...

The minimum I would consider are the 3M and North silicone half masks;
even better are the powered positive pressure fresh air systems.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=788837
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726309


V12 Edited dead links
 
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The count is so very organized and is helpful with all sorts of answers that are right on. I would like to mention that the knife making thing can be a very slow thing to learn and for some never does become a very satisfying thing. On the other hand , it can draw you into a world of wonderful satifaction and activity. Frank
 
Welcome ,Jess.
As I said in my email, this is the place to be.
Get a piece of paper and start drawing sketches. Post them and get some input on the designs,and any changes needed. Then transfer the plans to steel. Once cut out, the hard work starts....but it isn't all that hard. Just file away everything that doesn't look like a knife.
 
Ok, I've sketched a knife (actually traced a couple of knives that I wanted features of) and this is what I've come up with. It's a small utility santoku. I really like this design, and I also think it will make a good first design. If anyone sees something in the design that is a problem, or may be difficult for a beginner, please let me know.

I'm still trying to decide which I would prefer for a grind. I guess I don't know the proper terms either. I'm not sure if I want one bevel from the spine all the way down to the edge grind, or if I want to have the top part of the blade be flat and then do a bevel.

Any and all help will be appreciated. I'm looking at doing this with files and sandpaper. Also, what files do I get. What brands are best and which ones from course to fine should I have.
I hope you guys can understand my ramblings.

CCF02132011_00000.jpg
 
Mooseyard said:
Ok, I've sketched a knife (actually traced a couple of knives that I wanted features of) and this is what I've come up with. It's a small utility santoku. I really like this design, and I also think it will make a good first design. If anyone sees something in the design that is a problem, or may be difficult for a beginner, please let me know.

I'm still trying to decide which I would prefer for a grind. I guess I don't know the proper terms either. I'm not sure if I want one bevel from the spine all the way down to the edge grind, or if I want to have the top part of the blade be flat and then do a bevel.

Any and all help will be appreciated. I'm looking at doing this with files and sandpaper. Also, what files do I get. What brands are best and which ones from course to fine should I have.
I hope you guys can understand my ramblings.
Click to expand...

That seems like a nice simple doable design.

Smaller is easier to do, but this handle may even be a bit too small?

Cutout a pattern of this in cardboard, or wood
Something that you can fondle and see if you like it.

RE the bevel
I vote for full bevel edge to spine.
It takes some serious skill to get a bevel line that matches on both sides.
and I think a full thin grind cuts better

Files ?
You're going to get recommendations for USA made, Nicholson and Simonds Black Diamond.
My local hardware stores have damned little, try an industrial machine tool supplier.

Coarseness ? someone else can comment.
 
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Another Wisconsinite! Welcome! How about dem Packers?!?!

Nice design. Now extend the blade another 14 inches, add a couple, three gut hooks, serrations, saw teeth, and filework, put random bumps on the top of the blade, move the handle up or down about 35 degrees, put six finger notches on the handle (if one is good, more must be better, right?), stick a second really curvy blade out the back of the handle and plan to make it out of iridium or any super complicated alloy that can't be worked by any known tool on earth. There. Now you have a typical first time knife design! Let's get with it!

- LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Sun Prairie, Wisconsin
 
lonepine said:
Another Wisconsinite! Welcome! How about dem Packers?!?!

Nice design. Now extend the blade another 14 inches, add a couple, three gut hooks, serrations, saw teeth, and filework, put random bumps on the top of the blade, move the handle up or down about 35 degrees, put six finger notches on the handle (if one is good, more must be better, right?), stick a second really curvy blade out the back of the handle and plan to make it out of iridium or any super complicated alloy that can't be worked by any known tool on earth. There. Now you have a typical first time knife design! Let's get with it!

- LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Sun Prairie, Wisconsin
Click to expand...

I hope you are kidding Paul! I only have four fingers why would I need 6 finger grooves??

The handle size is the same as one of my favorite EDC knives, a Benchmade Outlander I believe is the name. I like the smaller handle because it's a little easier to conceal.
 
As you will soon discover, we are a sick lot with a perverse passion for making unusual suggestions. Joking about things during the winter increases as everyone from Mooseyard, WI...all the way up to Moosejaw, Sask is usually going crazy from cabin fever. Hmmm, maybe it is the Moose thing that causes people to get crazy....Yeah, that would explain Sarah Palin,too.

The design looks good. I would do a full flat grind. The files most recommended are Simmonds and Nicholson. Get a 10" bastard file and a 10" finishing file. A half round file is good to have,too.If you love your hands, get a file handle. A 2X2X6" block of hard wood and a big stack of wet-or-dry sandpaper is all that you need to take the blade to a good finish.

The sticky on making a knife ( at the top of the Shop Talk page) has more info.
 
Mooseyard said:
I hope you are kidding Paul! I only have four fingers why would I need 6 finger grooves??
Click to expand...

Hmmm, they must grow them different over in Moose Lips or maybe4 you had and industrial accident. Myself I have a total of ten fingers, five on each hand.

Why six finger grooves? Well, um,... ah,... how about when you want to UN-choke up on the blade, or if just after you've sharpened the blade so well that it scares you and you don't want to get your fingers too close to it? I would have thought it would be OBVIOUS! ;-)

Brother in frostbite,
Paul Meske

PS I think six finger notches is also some sort of traditional Japanese style called Ginsu, or Popeel, something like that. Maybe it was Mongolian.
 
Seems to be a lot of guys from WI lately, is it something in the water?

All kidding aside, you're off to a very good start with your design and you have a sensible attitude. :)

I responded to your email; I can't do much for you as far as HT goes but if you're in town you could stop by the shop and I'll show you how to get started. You mentioned 1084, that's a great choice for lots of reasons. Start with thin stock like 1/8", it won't take long at all to file the bevels.
 
Based on observations of several first timers over the years, I would suggest a 3/4 height flat grind to start with. You may well end up with a full height bevel anyway, lots of first timers who go for the full height grind over-shoot and end up with the bevels and plunges going too far and cutting into the spine. You can always go higher in small stages once you get them nice and even.
 
Welcome to the site. Nice looking design.

There is such a wealth of info offered here on the site. While doing searches for info I needed, I have found info I didn't even know I wanted to know. Fairly often I'll just pick a page towards the last page and just start reading. Great stuff can be found here.
 
Steel is on it's way from Aldo. I wanted 12" but I guess 48" is the minimum. I got a sweet price, even with shipping. I had planned on making one knife, but I guess with 48" it better be a really big one, or I better start sketching more designs:D
 
Yep, Cheeseheads only! Unless of course you have suggestions on how to make my knife better:o
 
Time and effort, time and effort. Just do it! You will learn lots from it. The next one will be even better.

There are some amazing WIP's on the forum too. Do an advanced search on google for "WIP" . I have learned a lot from going through them, especialy the ones with a lot of pics. I like pics!
 
My piece of 2"x48", 1/8" 1084 Steel came in yesterday from Aldo. Today I cut out my pattern from a piece of foam board. I spent Sunday night making sure that my scales were perfectly flat. I used 100 grit sandpaper on top of a 1/4" thick piece of glass. Both scales are now flat and the same thickness. I took the foam board pattern that I cut out with an X-acto knife (must be something better than that to use for cutting foam board) and used an awl to scribe a trace of the pattern onto the steel. I have the steel blank cut to length, but either I need a new hacksaw blade or a different style. I was using a 24 tooth, is that too course for cutting steel? I'm not sure how I'm going to remove the larger pieces of metal that need to be removed before I can start filing. The hacksaw was a PITA and was not very precise. I tried using my bench grinder to remove excess material, which will work, but do I need to be concerned with over heating the steel while grinding on it? I think I will also need a better vise in my basement work shop. I'll hopefully put some WIP pics up tomorrow when I get home from work. For now I need to go to bed.
Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions!:D
 
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