- Joined
- May 6, 2004
- Messages
- 8,151
bbb4u said:
if BOS has touched it it it is magically the best! nuff said on BOS. he is the Hoit Buck of the present.
On knives, edges and sharpening:
i have been in to that since i was a club scout and learned in the manual to rub in a circle on a stone.
i have see some of the first electron microscope images of sharp edges - both glass and steel back in the 60's
the sharpest thing might still be a finely broken glass as i understand, however i am out of date on ceramics which is a step-up from glass. super cold and titanium coating also came along and each have advantages tell it wares past that.
i know a broke ceramic toilet tank top will cut you to the bone quicker then steel!
Oil keeps a stone from clogging and no rust & water keeps steel cooler though both over lap. Ceramic is great stone and use water or oil.
Angel is the MOST important factor in sharpening,
if you master angle free handed you have it whiped in all fashions!
Most sharpening systems are simply angle control... period!
Some are faster but it is still angle control.
So ease = is a question of faster and better angle control
Under a ‘scope all edges have a striated appearance....
Finer striations and finer/ steeper angel determines perceived sharpness.
Edge holding is relative = breaking of the striations / lessoning of angle = ware = dulling. Hardness <read temper and composition > makes it last longer.
The trade off is speed of restoration of the edge to what you started with. Ease of re-freshening the edge up is speed of returning to what you started with period. Every thing depends on what you want to use the edge for.
And every thing needs a differing edge and that edge had a lot to do with what you want it to do. Every thing in sharping and steel depends on what you want to use the edge for. Meat, bone, wood, cloth, metal bands, plastic, bread dough, vegetables, shaving, penetrating or cutting of your self or others and the environments of use is all relative to how well a knife and its steel performs.
As a electrician I cut steel bands off conduit pipe many times with the old buck 110 of 440c! It would rust if not oiled via an oil stone sharpening once in while.
I took a 124 in 1971 and freehanded sharpened it and shaved my face with it. It dulled fast cutting a branch though.
Due to accident and nerve damage I can no longer feel to free hand as I once did. So I got a Lansky System and it worked great, I recommend it to any one.
I started woodworking and found a lot of controversy on plainer blades. Many differing opinions some very fanatical as to what was the best! As I learned more I found that in testing reports that many skilled “old fashion hand-working” craftsmen were going to a plate glass with wet sand paper to 2000 grit!
I tried the paper glass and I highly recommended it to any very much!!!
I keep a flat glass and auto finish sand paper handy in the shop at all times!!!
Different grits for differing uses and angles ... it is all in what you want , angle of cut was important as to use of the blade... many opinions on that also.
I only have sharpened knife s30v once and it was some one else’s user and it is a bit "harder" then 420hc got it sceary sharpe and cut my self ... and tool steels, I have done none as a knife but as planer/scraper blades yes and it works very well on them also .
The only automatic system I have ever seen that comes close I seen at a show and it had floating on a frame diamond grit rods and I was most impressed as here was a sharpening tool that my one handed brother could use but it was pricy over other systems and I don’t remember the name of it, from the north west some were. I think... and it is the only one I would recommend to any that want quick and easy that have no skill as yet on how to sharpen...
Well I need to end this rant and hope youa’l understand what I was trying to get across. as youcan tell ihave nothing else i can do now but type any way
That’s my onion that I cry baby about….
yours crasy dave
