New hinderer XM-18 3.5", lock is funny?

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Dec 30, 2008
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Hey guys. I just bought a brand new hinderer XM-18 3.5 flipper slicer. It has an S45VN blade. When the blade is deployed the lock is solid, but when i go to grip the knife and squeeze, the lock moves in a bit more. Is this something that a break in period will fix/normal or is something funky? I've only owned one other hinderer and it didn't have this issue.
 
Hey guys. I just bought a brand new hinderer XM-18 3.5 flipper slicer. It has an S45VN blade. When the blade is deployed the lock is solid, but when i go to grip the knife and squeeze, the lock moves in a bit more. Is this something that a break in period will fix/normal or is something funky? I've only owned one other hinderer and it didn't have this issue.
Better to send it back while still newish
For a knife of that price, don't settle
And ask for replacement
 
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Make sure all screws are tightened and there is no side to side blade play when opened. It's a frame lock so if you squeeze hard enough the lockbar might move a little bit. The question here is how "a bit more" of the lockbar movement is yours?
 
Everything is tight. Pivot screw is tight enough to not have any play with lock disengaged but not too tight not to flip easily. I can move all my frame locks but I noticed this one only because when I squeeze I feel the click as the lock bar moved. Everything has been disassembled, cleaned with acetone, light KPL on the pivot washers. I took a little and wiped it on the lock face and then wiped it off just so it wasn’t totally sterile. Seemed to help a little.
 
super hard squeeze maybe, light or normal grip squeeze don't sound right to me......

I'd send in for warranty, if it were mine.....
 
If it indeed isn't normal, then it's unfortunate that something so expensive is being shipped out with what appears to be an agregious QC oversight
 
If it indeed isn't normal, then it's unfortunate that something so expensive is being shipped out with what appears to be an agregious QC oversight
And yet we've somehow allowed you to slip through the cracks...


It happens. We haven't quantified how much force is required, how he's positioning his fingers on the lock bar or anything else. So, it's all speculation at this juncture. Are we really in such a rush to throw RHK under the bus without giving them an opportunity to examine the knife and determine what the fault may (or may not) be?
 
No need to send hinderer through the ringer...
As i open and close the knife it seems to be wearing in. I've owned a lot of frame locks and never experienced this issue. Liner locks are a different story...
It seems my index finger is the one to push the lock bar over. The knife fits the hand perfectly so I assume this is what causes it. On my XM-24 it's a larger knife so I don't notice it. It does have a bit of lock stick if opened vigorously but i know that will go away with time and doesn't bother me. Force is just a normal grip like you'd use to cut cardboard, nothing excessive.
I'm wondering if that's causing it is one scale being more forward than the other (machining wise). I only see wear on the non lock side. Unless this is just how these locks are. I can see the stop pin isn't fully touching the lock side scale, but not by much.
Edit: I would say lockup is 30%
 
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You know what it is...
It's my grip squeezing UP (when holding the blade with the edge facing the ground).
When I squeeze the knife towards the jimping of the frame/scales, it slips a little. I noticed it does it on my other frame locks as well, they just don't pop when doing so.
 
You know what it is...
It's my grip squeezing UP (when holding the blade with the edge facing the ground).
When I squeeze the knife towards the jimping of the frame/scales, it slips a little. I noticed it does it on my other frame locks as well, they just don't pop when doing so.
Is this normal?
 
OP - send it in for a replacement or full refund. RHK produces some of the best sub-$500 frame lock folders currently in the market. I'm sure you'll be taken care of.
 
Lock clicking would bother me personally
Unless I knew what walls causing it wouldn't affect function
I concur, I have owned several Hinderers, none of them clicked. A couple were a smidge sticky, but that went away quickly with use. My LGs have all been flawless though even with no lockbar insert 😄
 
Well, after flipping it most of the day it went away. I swapped on a Monkey Edge Frag Titanium scale and put some skiff washers in it and it's good now. I've noticed that the lock face is finally getting some wear to it, which i'm sure the bedding in or the lock face to the lock bar insert is helping. I wasn't seeing any change for a bit so my assumption was that the S45VN was much tougher than the other steels i have with framelocks.
 
Break in period? Any knife over $100 shouldn’t need a break in period!
Haha, well don’t ever buy a crk!😉
Well, after flipping it most of the day it went away. I swapped on a Monkey Edge Frag Titanium scale and put some skiff washers in it and it's good now. I've noticed that the lock face is finally getting some wear to it, which i'm sure the bedding in or the lock face to the lock bar insert is helping. I wasn't seeing any change for a bit so my assumption was that the S45VN was much tougher than the other steels i have with framelocks.

I’ve noticed this on other knives before, especially after a cleaning and lubing. I suspect it was from getting lube on the lock face. I now clean the lock face and blade tang with alcohol right before reassembly. Seems to have fixed the problem every time. I could be wrong but putting lube on the lock face may have been the cause.
 
Haha, well don’t ever buy a crk!😉


I’ve noticed this on other knives before, especially after a cleaning and lubing. I suspect it was from getting lube on the lock face. I now clean the lock face and blade tang with alcohol right before reassembly. Seems to have fixed the problem every time. I could be wrong but putting lube on the lock face may have been the cause.

^^^ this.
 
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