New Jig for all us Cheater LOL

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May 22, 2008
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I decided to make a jig to hold my knives for flattening them and for tapering them after forging. It is a piece of paper micarta. The handle is just some junk wood. the bottom screws hold the blade from shooting out as it contacts the belt. The second set of screws up from the bottom are for pushing the tang or blade out more to taper it. But I have found that the second set of screws are not need if you taper the blade and tang while forging. This has made it much easier to flatten and taper my knives and really helps with big thick ones.
Let me know what you think

Eric Knight
 

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good idea, ive tried something similar myself, I took a piece of junk stabilized wood, drilled pin whole according to the tang layout, and then held against the disc, worked ok in the sense that i didn't burn the hell out of my finger tips.

but i found i had less control than just holding with my fingers against the disc, meaning i didn't have as much control when applying the pressure in the proper directions.

just my thoughts , nice setup though,

andrew
 
I dont have a disc grinder so I made it to use with my belt grinder which eats my finger for breakfast, lunch, dinner and sometimes a midnight snack when using my fingers.
 
pushstick for me...

I've found that grinding a tapered tang is easier by holding the knife horizontally at first and going carefully with a newer belt....and then turning it vertical with a finer grit belt.

A disc is better to get it perfectly flat...but even then it takes longer at the disc than at the flat platen

0.02

YMMV

Dan

I learned from the best (Tom Krein) and can now go from full thickness tang to perfectly-flat-ready-to-glue-up-tapered-down-to-0.030" in about 15 minutes (on a medium-sized knife...obviously bigger knives take longer).


Somewhere there's a write-up on it...gotta find it.
 
You might want to look in "How to make knives" by Bob Loveless and see how he does it.
 
I learned from the best (Tom Krein) and can now go from full thickness tang to perfectly-flat-ready-to-glue-up-tapered-down-to-0.030" in about 15 minutes (on a medium-sized knife...obviously bigger knives take longer).
Same way I do it ( though mine was verbal from Tom K on the phone ).

If I don't make Blade , I am going to make it to Tom's for as many days as I can , till he kicks me out.

:D
 
well it look like if my jig doesnt work out I will be getting a large magnet from harbor freight. Thanks to all for your input.
Eric
 
Good idea for a fixture... You could have the best of both worlds if you embedded a few rare earth magnets in it!!

Same way I do it ( though mine was verbal from Tom K on the phone ).

If I don't make Blade , I am going to make it to Tom's for as many days as I can , till he kicks me out.

:D

John you are welcome to come for as LONG as you want!!

well it look like if my jig doesnt work out I will be getting a large magnet from harbor freight. Thanks to all for your input.
Eric

I try and avoid Harbor Freight when ever I can. Get good tools and they will last a long time. I decided this after my third heat gun from HF shorted out and almost burned my shop down. I HATE HF!! :mad:

Tom
 
Good idea for a fixture... You could have the best of both worlds if you embedded a few rare earth magnets in it!!
ITom

Drop by a local computer repair shop and see it they will give you a few old Hard Drives. There will be two powerful magnets, rare earth, in each one.
A dozen doughnuts might help :D
 
I have been using a magnet from Harbor Freight on a 4x36 sander.

Daniel if you find that write up I would like a copy of it. I have been thinking of getting a disk grinder.
 
I have several grinding magnets from the knife suppliers. They come in 5" and 9". I have the bench top covered with cheap HF welding magnets to catch all the stray steel dust.
Stacy
 
One thing about using those magnets is they get steel dust all over them and become a mess. To stop this from happening, you can put your magnet in a ziplock baggie. Then put a 1/2" thick piece of flat steel on your covered up magnet. Attach your knife to the 1/2" thick piece of steel and gring your tapered tang. The reason for the 1/2" piece of steel between your blade and your magnet is to act as a heat sink that will keep your ziplock baggie from melting onto your magnet and blade. When you're done grinding, you just take the baggie off and all the steel dust falls to the floor where you can sweep it up, without it mucking up your magnet.
 
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