New knife I am working on

W

wassomeoneelse

Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
123
Well guys here is a knife that I am working on. It is going to be carried by a soldier in my unit when we deploy in a few months. So far, I am really happy with the progress on it.

Mike Lemante and I came up with the basic overall design one day while trying to cut down on the amount of time it takes to make one. We decided on incorporating the guard into the blade to make putting a handle on the knife as easy as possible and to incorporate a strap into the sheath. At least that was the thinking at the start of this journey.
The knife that we first worked out.

Contacted Dave @ Great Lakes Water Jet and I contracted with him to cut me 21 of these bad boys. As you can see from the pictures, Dave cleaned up the ricasso area in front of the guard, took out some weight from the handle and pre jetted the two pin holes and thong hole. He also put the ridges along the back. Nothing a toothpick and sandpaper wont clean up after heat treat. This is the first one out of the 21 that I am almost finished with. I still need to sharpen it, take the outer layer of super glue off and then go back over it with a scotchbright belt. Great service.

Its a Burl was kind enough to make a great deal on 5 sets of stabalized spalted scales since these knives will be carried by troops. I forgot exactly what type of wood that it is. All I know is that it grinds really nicely and doesnt clog up my belt like straight wood does.
Great service and a pleasure to do business with.
The sheath will be done next week.

Some of the things I will change on the next one is:
1. Start the grind back toward the handle a little bit more.
2. Pull the handles up towards the ricasso a little bit more. Just need to fit them under the thumb grooves.

Question: How can I clean up the thong hole area? Having trouble getting some epoxy out of there.

Any comments and critiques will be most welcome. I would even appreciate you guys using both barrels on me. I want to get better at this and am happy with my progression, but I realize in my mind what I could do different with this knife, but maybe I am missing something. So, please let me have it.
Thanks,
Bryan

Overall length is 9 1/2". Cutting edge is 4 1/2"
The blade is 3/16 thick 1095 and has a 12" hollow grind.
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It looks awsome from here. Question tho are there more than one pin there? you have pin holes but i'm guessing there hidden? overall it looks like a very servicable knife.

Bennie
 
Nice knife, the handle has a good shape.

To get epoxy out of tight gaps I use a little bit of tissuse soaked in nail varnish remover (acetone is better) wrapped around the end of a cocktail stick -or toothpick as I belive they are called in the US- then just rub it off. Dont get it too wet and avoid getting any acetone on the joint between the scales and the steel. Oh and dont do this while smoking unless your mental or fireproof.

Jamie
 
Bennie: There are two pins holding the scales onto the blade. I guess from the angle of the pics, it is hard to see the 2nd one.

Will: The handle material does not look that good before you sand it. I could tell that it had some stuff going on with it. It is good looking scales, but it definately has a "WOW" factor once you buff it up just a little bit. This is my first knife to use "expensive" scales, lol.

Jackie: Just to clarify what you wrote, "to see if I understand correctly" basically use a beverage toothpick and wrap a napkin around it. Soak in acetone or nail polish remover and rub away until the epoxy is gone. Question: does this work well with epoxy that has set and is dry?

Thanks for the kind comments Erik and Lou.
 
Looks good Sgt.Brian Arnold! HUAH! Maybe we can get Will to visit us Sunday, Were gonna work like rabid coons Sunday thru Tuesday, gonna be a blast
 
Charlie,
Come now, that ole Sgt was my first deployment. Now it is SSG Arnold lol. In fact Charlie, it is going to be a bunch of hard work, but well worth it.
Thanks
Bryan
 
Yeah you get a beverage toothpick and wrap and napkin round it then dip that in acetone, this helps you get into the tight corners.

It will remove set epoxy but it yakes a little while and some scrubbing but it will work.

The only other way is with a bit of soft metal like a coin shaped into a craft knife type shape. Hard metal will scratch steel, soft metal like copper wont.

Jamie
 
jackie,
Thanks for that great reminder about soft steel. I have tons of stuff like that laying around. I should hit myself in my head, but I need it.
Thanks Man
 
It took a while but I found you on here.
Came out nice. Better keep this one.
I took pics of my last good ones.
Thought I'd put it on here, but don't know how to post.
Bradley E. Vines
 
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