Hi everyone.
As I browse around this forum I see that it is a great place. I'm not exactly a new blade smith but my skills are lacking. My friend and I decided to make a forge for our senior project in order to graduate high school. It started as a hole in the ground with an ancient mentality, now it is a car hood with a brake caliper as a fire pot. Up to this point, we have figured everything out with trial and error and I have forged maybe 7 or 8 blades. I have fully finished 2 of them to my liking- one is from an old file (W2?) and the other is from a 5/8" SS rod which was scrap from work. Since our anvil has a terrible surface and our forging methods are awful, (e.g. not burning coke) I have decided I will try stock removal. I am sure too many impurities enter the steel while forging and all forging does is hurt the steel.
I have a couple of questions I was hoping someone could answer:
How do I achieve a satin finish?
Also, how can I achieve a mirror finish? The closest I have come to a mirror was with 1500 grit wet/dry paper that I used with water. I am assuming I would use a buffer but with what wheel/compound/methods?
Can someone please explain "red hard"?
Although my work is not great, the earthy and appreciative mother of one of my friends requested an entire set of kitchen knives. I was wondering what steel would be the best for such an application. Can I get away with using high carbon steel as opposed to stainless? Is 1/8" a good thickness? I was planning to just do stock removal for this set because it takes so long for me to get all the pits out of one of my unskilled forgings. I was also wondering if anyone sends blades out to be heat treated and if this is lacking anything. I am assuming it saves a lot of time but I'm not sure if the quality of the heat treat is the same. I have trouble telling if my heat treating does anything and I would really like to improve upon it.
I would really like to put guards on these kitchen knives. I have never done a guard before and have heard of brazing them on. I don't have access to an acetylene outfit or any means of silver soldering, welding, or brazing. Is there any way around this? How do you guys do it?
Hopefully I have made sense. Sorry for the long post. Please ask questions regarding clarity.
I really, really appreciate all replies.
Thanks again,
Alex
As I browse around this forum I see that it is a great place. I'm not exactly a new blade smith but my skills are lacking. My friend and I decided to make a forge for our senior project in order to graduate high school. It started as a hole in the ground with an ancient mentality, now it is a car hood with a brake caliper as a fire pot. Up to this point, we have figured everything out with trial and error and I have forged maybe 7 or 8 blades. I have fully finished 2 of them to my liking- one is from an old file (W2?) and the other is from a 5/8" SS rod which was scrap from work. Since our anvil has a terrible surface and our forging methods are awful, (e.g. not burning coke) I have decided I will try stock removal. I am sure too many impurities enter the steel while forging and all forging does is hurt the steel.
I have a couple of questions I was hoping someone could answer:
How do I achieve a satin finish?
Also, how can I achieve a mirror finish? The closest I have come to a mirror was with 1500 grit wet/dry paper that I used with water. I am assuming I would use a buffer but with what wheel/compound/methods?
Can someone please explain "red hard"?
Although my work is not great, the earthy and appreciative mother of one of my friends requested an entire set of kitchen knives. I was wondering what steel would be the best for such an application. Can I get away with using high carbon steel as opposed to stainless? Is 1/8" a good thickness? I was planning to just do stock removal for this set because it takes so long for me to get all the pits out of one of my unskilled forgings. I was also wondering if anyone sends blades out to be heat treated and if this is lacking anything. I am assuming it saves a lot of time but I'm not sure if the quality of the heat treat is the same. I have trouble telling if my heat treating does anything and I would really like to improve upon it.
I would really like to put guards on these kitchen knives. I have never done a guard before and have heard of brazing them on. I don't have access to an acetylene outfit or any means of silver soldering, welding, or brazing. Is there any way around this? How do you guys do it?
Hopefully I have made sense. Sorry for the long post. Please ask questions regarding clarity.
I really, really appreciate all replies.
Thanks again,
Alex