New Knifemaker Steel Choices

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Jan 10, 2011
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So I'm about to get some knife making tools, and I have been eyeing some steel/Ti, but I was wondering what is the best thickness, and size. I also would like to here what steel you started with, and what your experiences were. I'm also thinking of getting a sheet of Ti, and making some neckers. I want make handles too, any tips for what supplies/tools are handy for making g10/mircata handles ? Below are some steel I have been thinking of trying....

1084,195,cpm154, 440c, and s35vn Ti= 6al-4v
 
I recently started knife making as well. I chose 1095 and 5160 steel to start. I'm sure that's not what people may recommend but I like them both. I like a couple knives I've made out of the 5160 which is 1/4" thick. To sum it up I'd say just try it and see if you like it. It's worked for me.
 
My recommendation is start cheap and easy. Get your grinding down and then your HT. I know I have gone thru alot of steel learning how to do stuff and I am still afraid to touch some nice damascus I have sitting around. 1084 is a good cheap option to easily HT. 1075 also. Ofcourse this all depends if your doing your own HT.

I know it probably sounds like a broken record but I could of saved myself some money to start with. I just started having to much fun chasing hamons around so moved to 1075, 1095 and W2 pretty quickly.
 
Unless you have a ton of money to blow, just stick with 1084 and build/buy a small propane forge to do your own heat treating. For thickness, I'd recommend 1/8", as anything thicker will just cost more and create an unnecessary amount of work for you... so unless you have a specific plan for a beefy knife, start thin. I buy mine from Aldo like many others. It's cheap, easy to work with, and gives great results with a lot of room for my newbiness. Spend your money on tools, not materials, if you're just starting up.

Ambition is good, but you're thinking a bit far ahead of yourself. Slow down, and do a little more research/reading; most questions you have can be found fairly easily with a little bit of searching... and you'll probably find out some other stuff you didn't know.

There's a reason people will recommend you start cheap/simple. You likely won't be too happy with the first few blades you grind out; it's more difficult than you'd think to create exactly what you envision in your head. I had about a 6 blades ground out before I was happy enough with one to take it to a completed knife. Using cheap belts and 1084, the costs were a few bucks each, so I had no qualms about "wasting" material. The practice was worth that easily. If you're learning on S35vn or Titanium, your costs are going to be astronomical (tenfold, if not more). Not to mention, they're completely different animals to use. Also, sending out for heat treat will run you around $20+ per knife, whereas doing your own in a forge will cost you some change... and you won't have to wait very long to get back to working on it. Plus, you don't have to feel bad heat treating a knife you aren't happy enough with to spend money on heat treat. You won't necessarily get the same results doing your own, but you'll get the practice that you need to eventually reach your ambitions... plus it's fun to play with fire :P I've personally found doing my own heat treating to be very satisfying, but I suppose your mileage may vary.

As for other tools, I'd recommend some files, sandpaper, a 1x30 belt sander (buy good belts for it and it'll work pretty darn well), a drill, and safety equipment. If you like it and want to continue the hobby, start upgrading or getting more specialized tools. The only way you'll know what you need is through making. I'll often find myself saying "I wish I had that, it would make this so much easier." If I find myself saying that a few times, I know what my next purchase will be. If you get to the point where you're confident in your skills or want to use fancier materials and want a better heat treat, THEN send stuff out (or buy your own oven). As for shaping G10/Micarta, all you need is some files and sandpaper as well. A belt sander works great for this purpose... I still use my 1x30 for a lot of my shaping, despite having a 2x72.

If you wanted to learn to play the violin, you wouldn't go out and buy a Stradivarius and start playing Beethoven. You'd likely buy a starter instrument, learn the notes, practice your scales, and work your way up from "Mary had a Little Lamb." It's not to say you wouldn't one day play in the CSO or that you won't one day be making awesome knives, but you've gotta start with the basics.
 
I may be wrong, but I don't think Ti will make a useable knife blade unless you carbidize the edge. I thought it could only get to about 46RC.

However using the Tungsten Carbide like George Lambert does will put the perfomance of a Ti blade way up there.
 
So I'm about to get some knife making tools, and I have been eyeing some steel/Ti, but I was wondering what is the best thickness, and size.

I don't recommend any stock thicker than .125" (1/8") for any new stock-removal maker, regardless of the steel type you choose. It is very easy to put an acute bevel on thin stock so that it actually cuts really well, and it saves a lot of work. Too many makers (including myself) jumped in with both feet on 3/16"-1/4" stock, and got frustrated trying to figure out why everything was taking so damn long, and their knives didn't cut very well. A two- or three-foot bar of 1/8" stock 1.25 inches wide is plenty big enough to make several hunters, utility knives, etc. Nice small handy, slim cutters with 3-4" blades are the way to go for your first few projects at least, if not all of them. :thumbup:
I will be sending the blades to a 3rd party heat treat. Anyone know a HT guy ?

I use Peters HT almost exclusively. They can properly HT every steel I know of. Wait until you have a half-dozen or more blades ready before sending them in, to even out the cost/blade.

I started with 1084, and still use it from time-to-time. It's inexpensive, as easy to work with as it gets (even with super basic hand-tools like files and sandpaper) and makes a very good knife. It can take a fine finish, is not at all difficult to get/maintain a really keen edge on and is very tough. It's not very corrosion-resistant. As mentioned, you can get pretty close to its optimum HT with a very simple set-up, if you decide to try it yourself.
 
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As a newer maker myself I would go one step further and reccomend starting with 3/32" steel. It is what I use almost exclusively, and everything from choppers to small neck knives/folders/slipjoints can be effectively made with it. There will be much less waste from grinding in the beginning and will be a more efficient cutter sooner than a thicker steel. This way, instead of worrying about hogging off steel you can worry about grind lines/fit and finish issues sooner in the process, plus it is cleaner come time to get rid of dust. I would avoid the Ti for now, it makes a poor knife and will add to your headache learning the issues with a different metal type (galling/cutting....). I have never had an issue with steel neckers, and have always wondered why Ti was so wanted as a material, so my bias is coming through.

I would also suggest a starter level stainless and high carbon steel together. Something like ATS/440C and 1080/1095, which are plentiful, fairly inexpensive, and make a quality knife. They will also be easier to work with than say CPM S30V/3V, especially with beginner level tooling. I started with O1 and 440C. This will let you see the differences in working two types of steel, you can make identical knives to see how the two steels perform differently, or pick a steel based on projected use type.

Once people know you like to make knives you will be able to choose what steel type will suit your 'new friend' the best, as you will probably find many friends want their dream knife made, for limited funds of course. These 'gifts' are great ways to play around with different designs. While I have sold some of the knives made for friends or friends of friends, I look at them more so as a learning opportunity and a chance to be pushed into trying new things. Having a steel choice seems to be a part of the fun when I am deciding.

Good luck and have fun!!
 
As a newbie myself, I have a selection of scrap steels (got me started) then I bought some O1 locally. It was the only blade suitable steel they had at the metal supply store here but I was able to get brass and stainless for fixtures from them in various sizes from their cutoff bin, as well as steel to make my anvil. I got some 1084, 15n20, and W2 from Canadian Knifemaker Supply. With what I have now, I can make kitchen knives, bowies, hunting and fishing knives, try my hand at damascus, and a hamon. Unless I need stainless for something specific, these choices will far exceed my skills for the next few years. Since I plan to do all of my own heat treating, I have most of the supplies needed for my PID forge, and have most of what I need for an electric heat treat oven. What I don't have is enough time to play with everything I want to do.
 
Anyone know a good spot to get 1084? I'm getting a Craftsman 2x42, and a HF 4x36 for profiling, anyone have recommendation for belts ?
 
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Aldo for 1084, and I use Trugrit for belts. People also use Supergrit, popsknifesupply, and a few others.
 
Some people argue that ceramic belts last long enough that they are more than worth the extra expense. Others argue that cheaper belts last long enough and come out cheaper in the end. I personally like norton ceramics, especially the blaze orange. I haven't had the chance to use a lot of belts yet but sofar the blazes last really well and run smooth.

I assume you mean the craftsman 2x42? in its stock state it won't fit a leather or scotch brite belt so forget those.

I can also attest that aldos 1084 is very forgiving of horrible heat treat practices lol. I've just been using a propane torch and eyeballing the temperature. I haven't been able to screw any up enough to make it chippy even with some occasional over heating at the edge.
 
Defiantly 1084 from Aldo. Very good steel. Very affordable. Easy to heat treat. Makes a great knife.
 
Listen to these guys. 1084 from Aldo is really a great steel for making a blade. I wish I had started using it sooner. A customer just contacted me about a knife I made him that I used the 1084

This is what he said and here is a pict.

"Here are some recent action shots of the blade you made me

End of the season hunt club supper. 30 bear and 40 dear legs. Me and a few guys. Cutting the bones, fat and gristle from the meat for 5 hours straight. Adam your knife. Is a sharp SOB. After 5 hours she was cutting like a champ. I didn't even strop it during the cutting session. And that's all I did besides cleaning it when I got home. On that sweet lil block you made me! "

 
Another money saving question. What size handle material should I buy ? I want to just start out with g-10, and maybe some mircata. I have medium sized hands and I like trim handles, but I know that will vary with the user.
 
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