New "LHK" Survival Series

L

LHKnives

Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Messages
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I`ve been tossing the idea of a survival knife, and here`s what I`ve come up with, have you guys anything to sugest or would like to see in a knife like this?
I`ll have a drawing for you guys when my picture hosting is back up.

If it was me out in the wilderness and say lost ( god forbid)
These would be the specs I would make the knife to.
5" blade of differentially heat treated O-1.straight back or slight drop point ( because I find 6" on the"edge" of too much blade, and O-1 because I trust it`s edge holding and performance, as I witness it every day)

1 3/4" of seration, (for when you need a little sawing action)

Full integral design (so as not to have problems with guards or butt caps, the integral butt would be very strong if you had to use it for hammering or something to that effect)

A good strong handle material like linen micarta,G-10, or carbon fiber

Hollow pins (in the knife for help tightening knots and stuff, or for pulling on small diameter rope)

Thumb serations (for grip and for use with a flint stone)

Heavy Leather sheath, with sharpening steel or diamond hone and flintstone compartments
 
I guess it all depends on what sort of "survival" situation you find yourself in and what other tools are available.

I find a 5 inch blade a little short in general as you have seriously limited the chopping ability of the knife.

For overall blade shape I want something like Trace Rinaldi uses in his Armegeddon. Not a Khukri or true Recurve but, a compromise like THR uses. You have weight blade forward but, still retain a good cutting edge for normal things but, also have adequate chopping ability.

Serrations? With proper sharpening technique, I see no reason to compromise the utility of all "straight" edge. Coarse sharpen on back and polish up front.

Bead blasted Micarta is preferred over Carbon Fiber due to the enhanced grip in adverse conditions (wet, bloody, oily, etc.). Rag Micarta would be best but, that is a thing of the past apparently.

For steel, CPM 3V is my pick. Just ask Trace Rinaldi or Mike Irie among others ;)

For the sheath, good heavy Kydex will outperform the best leather in any condition I am apt to find myself in.

A full tang/integral for good overall strength and you have a pretty well rounded starting point for what I want in a "survival" knife assuming a rural outdoor environment.
 
Here's my thoughts on your survival knife -

O-1 would be fine because of your experience with that steel.

5" blade sounds adequate but I'd prefer a slight clip point.

forget the 1 3/4" serration on edge - how about 3" or so serration on spine for sawing?

like idea of integral construction; makes good sense & you're good at it!

I'd like a tough handle material like linen micarta possibly with diagonal grooves & bead blasting, as mentioned by Sid Post, for a better grip.

the hollow pins & thumb serrations are a good idea!

prefer leather sheath with compartments for accessories (Kydex or nylon just doesn't do it for me).

Can't wait to see your drawing!
 
If you are going to offer this knife with a five inch blade, you may also want to think about making a seven inch or so version available. I find this length to be better for chopping.

Linen or Canvas Micarta is a great idea. Very durable and naturally grippy and I love the looks of green Canvas Micarta.

I am not a fan of serrated edges, whether on the blade or the spine, but I guess being a survival knife it is expected to have one.

The thumb serrations and hollow pins are a good idea.

I also prefer leather sheaths, but Kydex or Nylon would work as well.
 
Please be advised that web updates are to be incorporated in the thread created by Gus Kalanzis for that purpose at the top of the Custom Forum page. (Your present update has been moved there.)

Also, as a basic member no advertising or commercial posts are permitted. (Such as the previous message which had alluded to "options" etc.)
A Knifemaker subscription would allow advertising your knives in the appropriate commercial forums on the site.

I'm sure Darby and Randy will be able to answer any further questions in that regard.

Thanks for your cooperation.
 
No problem, Ron. I sent an email to hopefully clear up any misunderstanding.
 
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