New method for one of a kind stencils

[Atlas Knife Company]

Everyone wants to know how to make quick, easy stencils for that one knife they want something special on without having to spend $40 on a stencil. The modern solution has been to find a magazine and print your stencil to it, then iron it onto your knife. I couldn't get it to work reliably, so I gave up for several months.

KHall started a thread asking if 3D printers would work. They won't. However, it made me wonder if my Xerox Phaser 8400 solid ink printer might work. It does. I called Patricia at IMG-Electromark, explained my hair-brained idea and convinced her to send me a scrap of silkscreen without emulsion on it. Just to clarify, a solid ink printer essentially uses melted crayons instead of toner or liquid dye. The resulting images are kinda waxy, and thicker than toner although the resolution is still very good.


So, here's what I did. I created the stencil in Microsoft word, putting white text in a black box. I printed it off on the printer. I cut out a piece of silk and taped it to the paper over where it had just printed and ran it through the printer again.
View attachment 425132

Here's how the stencil looked after printing.
View attachment 425134

A minimal amount of surface prep, but it definitely works. This was the limit of the stencil, being the fourth time I tried etching with it and half the wax fell off when I peeled it off the metal. I was having trouble getting it to mark, likely because of the lack of surface prep.
View attachment 425137

OK, let's hear it. Why isn't this a great idea for making one use stencils?

 

[tattooedfreak]

Its easier to use photo paper and a laser printer or xerox machine. Although I assume you didnt have to iron this on, just lay it on like a normal stencil?

 

[Atlas Knife Company]

Yes, I just taped it to the blade like I would a regular stencil. Unlike the iron-on method, this can be used with hollow grinds. I'm thinking this might(50/50) work with a laser printer. Not sure if anyone has actually tried that method, either.

 

[tryppyr]

Wait, am I the appointed naysayer for the week? I am? Oh... okay.

Nah, this will never work! it requires a special solid ink printer and special medium (silkscreen) that most folks don't have.

Find a process that works with inkjet printers and standard papers and we'll bow down to you.

 

[oic0]

I've always wondered about having a rubber stamp made in negative and stamping your image with an insulative paint, but by the time you've done that.... might as well have bought tthe good stuff.

 

[Atlas Knife Company]

Greg, the silkscreen is pretty cheap, about $5 per ft. If this become a mainstream viable method, it will surely be available from retailers. As soon as I find a laser printer, I'll give it a shot.

The point of this proof of concept is that you CAN print a usable stencil of a higher quality and ease than the iron-on method.

 

[Overmountain]

Just an update that in keep meaning to add to my sikscreen thread. To put it plainly, it works... but the limit is the screen. Small stuff doesn't work. I got my etcher back to working, and blew through every fine fabric I could find, like J's chiffon, and even some very light faux silk. Nothing gets small enough to suit my needs. Even the finest mesh (300+) will not get thinner than the resulting threads themselves. For something as small as a logo on a knife, that's just too big IMO.

The short end... I have ended up finding a supplier for true photoresist film on a micronic substrate with developer so cheap it even makes the fingernail polish look expensive. (Downside is it's bulk)... Sometimes the best technology is already out there, it just takes some back engineering to figure out where they are making their profits. Then gut them via the supply chain.

Sorry Stacy, but even with that outcome I do still think this and similar areas are worth as much fiddling as we can reasonably muster... Otherwise nothing changes...

And someone had asked for a pic of my etcher, Strig I think... Nothing fancy... I use a lighted rocker in place of the usual neon bulb, and a 12.6v transformer where some use 24 (too hot IMO) but otherwise just a simple AC/DC unit. Long long leads as I use it as a plating powersource too. (And incidentially you can either use a variac in place of the transformer or a simple dimmer switch for variable voltage...)

-Eric

 

[milesofalaska]

oic0-- I have successfully used the rubber stamp but using acid etch. I asphaltum the blade, heat the resist and put a cold rubber stamp on. the stamp removes the resist. I think not precise enough for lettering as I do it. I etch animal tracks, leaves, etc. It is also possible to put the resist on the stamp and stamp it to the steel , then draw a circle around the design and apply resist around the circle. Just tossing an idea out there - seeing a discussion on innovative ways to custom etch cheaply and uniquely. This method requires no copier, nor even electricity.