New Military and Para 3 machined stop pin - NOT riveted!

kniferbro

kniferbro

Joined
Jan 22, 2011
Messages
3,193
I've seen a lot of talk lately about the new CQI Military and Para3 being pinned together because of the new stop pin. Well it's not! It's just domed on the end so it appears that way. Here are some pics to help clear things up:

L7b6AwX.jpg
 
Definitely a good thing, hope the PM2 gets this soon as well. Its like walking a tightrope to get the right balance of pivot screw tension and stop pin tension.
 
42pixels said:
Definitely a good thing, hope the PM2 gets this soon as well. Its like walking a tightrope to get the right balance of pivot screw tension and stop pin tension.
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Yup!! It's like the adjustment on the stop pin is more critical than pivot tension.
Good point brother!
Joe
 
42pixels said:
Definitely a good thing, hope the PM2 gets this soon as well. Its like walking a tightrope to get the right balance of pivot screw tension and stop pin tension.
Click to expand...

I personally have to respectfully disagree. I like the screw down construction on the stop pin as I feel it gives extra support to the pivot in reducing side to side play. In my experience knives that don't have a standoff or stop pin screwed down near the pivot have more issues with the pivot loosening. With the Pm2 a little washer sanding and you can get the exact tension you like. In some you can tighten the stop pin more. In others just sand the washers a little and you can get it exactly where you want.
 
luke86 said:
I personally have to respectfully disagree. I like the screw down construction on the stop pin as I feel it gives extra support to the pivot in reducing side to side play. In my experience knives that don't have a standoff or stop pin screwed down near the pivot have more issues with the pivot loosening. With the Pm2 a little washer sanding and you can get the exact tension you like. In some you can tighten the stop pin more. In others just sand the washers a little and you can get it exactly where you want.
Click to expand...

Interesting, I've not had the same issue. A lot of knives just have a pin that is pressed between liners and they've been fine for me. And I love the stop pin set up in the CRK Inkosi, which seems to be a very similar set up to how the Para 3 and new Millies have, while I have had issues with PM2 screwed in stop pins on my various PM2s. Granted, this is an anecdotal experience on my part.

In reality either is probably fine, and there are probably excellent reasons on both sides for why that configuration is better. Something for everyone I suppose.
 
I for one hope they don't change a thing about the para 2. They got it just right imho. :)
 
A very good upgrade, no stop pin should have to have all the impact of possible openings or chopping/cutting pressure hitting a stop pin held by threaded screws. From an engineering standpoint it makes much more sense in having that impact distributed through a rounded contact surface. Take a look at all Cold Steel knives where the tang has a rounded cut-out that wraps around the stop pin for impact, that's why you never see flat spots or get vertical play in their knives. The only thing i think they should have done to make it 100% perfect is make the liner cutout wrap around the "stepped" part of the new stop pin instead of wrap around the thick part, if it rested on the shoulder of the thinner part of the pin it would give the support sideways for hard squeezing of the handle also. Either way, a great upgrade to a long time classic.
 
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Mick_1KRR said:
A very good upgrade, no stop pin should have to have all the impact of possible openings or chopping/cutting pressure hitting a stop pin held by threaded screws. From an engineering standpoint it makes much more sense in having that impact distributed through a rounded contact surface. Take a look at all Cold Steel knives where the tang has a rounded cut-out that wraps around the stop pin for impact, that's why you never see flat spots or get vertical play in their knives. The only thing i think they should have done to make it 100% perfect is make the liner cutout wrap around the "stepped" part of the new stop pin instead of wrap around the thick part, if it rested on the shoulder of the thinner part of the in it would give the support sideways for hard squeezing of the handle also. Either way, a great upgrade to a long time classic.
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Great explanations! Thanks.
 
I like being able to adjust the stop pin tension with a screw as well as the pivot tension.
 
Glenn056, weird for ease of cleaning as spyderco doesn't allow for user disassembly without a loss of lifetime warranty.

Kniferbro, interesting change though in general and great job Sir on educating us, thank you much.
 
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jbmonkey said:
Glenn056, weird for ease of cleaning as spyderco doesn't allow for user disassembly without a loss of lifetime warranty.
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Never understood this interpretation. Can you quote the exact text in their warranty statement that implies this?
 
whp said:
I like being able to adjust the stop pin tension with a screw as well as the pivot tension.
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That just makes you then. That's 2 more torx screws that has to be potentially adjusted for perfect action. I've had knives where if all 4 screws were tight, it would be way off-center. Loosen the pivot on both sides, still off center. Tighten those, and loosen both sides of the stop pin, still off center, and so on and so forth. I'm not going to name names, but I have 1 knife that likes to have both pivot screws tight, the left stop pin screw tight as can be, and the right stop pin screw somewhat loose and lock tighted, the only possible way to get correct action, no blade play, and centered. That potential hell makes me praise stepped stop pins like the Para 3, cold steel knives, and CRK Inkosi.
 
luke86 said:
I personally have to respectfully disagree. I like the screw down construction on the stop pin as I feel it gives extra support to the pivot in reducing side to side play. In my experience knives that don't have a standoff or stop pin screwed down near the pivot have more issues with the pivot loosening. With the Pm2 a little washer sanding and you can get the exact tension you like. In some you can tighten the stop pin more. In others just sand the washers a little and you can get it exactly where you want.
Click to expand...

I have a PM2 and Yojimbo 2 that need stop pin and pivot fine tuning. To prevent side to side blade play. Is it just coincidence that they're both compression locks?!
 
jpm2 said:
Never understood this interpretation. Can you quote the exact text in their warranty statement that implies this?
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right from their website.. cut and pasted...

Repairs to your knife performed by any source other than Spyderco Inc. unconditionally voids the knife’s warranty.
Spyderco’s warranty does not cover damage caused by abuse, misuse, loss, improper handling, alterations, accident, neglect, disassembly, or improper sharpening.

so disassemble the knife and warranty is potentially void. course spyderco makes that call, but its well known they frown on disassembly.
 
jbmonkey said:
right from their website.. cut and pasted...

Repairs to your knife performed by any source other than Spyderco Inc. unconditionally voids the knife’s warranty.
Spyderco’s warranty does not cover damage caused by abuse, misuse, loss, improper handling, alterations, accident, neglect, disassembly, or improper sharpening.

so disassemble the knife and warranty is potentially void. course spyderco makes that call, but its well known they frown on disassembly.
Click to expand...

Are you saying my warranty will be voided if I disassemble without causing damage?
That's not what the warranty says.
 
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^ This thread is about clarification of what a stepped Stop-pin is, and related CQI, and how it differs from a rivet or press fit pin... not about reading into warranty interpretations.
 
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