New Mini-Copperlock dye job

The inconsistency of the dye is one of my peeves with Case. I wish they were a bit more careful with the colors.
 
They can sell that "frosting" any way they want, but to me it is simply a lack of quality control. I went to a gun show a while back, and one of the vendors there had blue scaled CASE stockman patterns out. The variance was incredible. They went from a deep blue, thoroughly dyed, to a "blue berries and cream" which in my eyes was atrocious. He didn't care much, and as those that don't work with their hands as craftsmen often do, passed the inconsistent quality off as the result of being "hand made". Right.

Some of the CASE scale offerings are really pretty these days, but some of them (mostly due to poor materials) are just ugly.

Robert
 
The inconsistency of the dye is one of my peeves with Case. I wish they were a bit more careful with the colors.

Yeah it is pretty annoying. It's just something you wouldn't feel you need to worry about from a company with a reputation such as Case's. I'm hoping the coffee soak will darken it up a bit. It's in a cup on my tool box at work as we speak.
 
I like the dark red color they do on the pocket worn red bone knives, it has a brownish tone to it and I cannot remember seeing any on display with light spots in the bone. Several blotchy knives in the peachseed jigged red and chestbone bone though. The blotchy dye jobs look too pinkish to me.
 
Definitely looks better already. :thumbup: Maybe a little longer and you're good to go.

Thanks cards94. I'm thinking I'll go a couple hours more and it should look pretty decent after that. Imagine what coffee does to our teeth! :rolleyes:
 
I agree, much better already. Even in by the jigging looks a little better to my eye. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
 
Any recommendations on how to clean up the blades on a CV knife after a tea n coffee spa treatment?

I did this with my CV STJ, but was able to keep the blades out of the juice. Want to experiment with my new 6375, but nervous about the blades.

Jim
 
I think there is at least a chance that if we asked Case they would say this particularly series was done this way on purpose. I personally get way more requests for bone that lightens to the edges so you can see contrast than I do for a consistent end-to-end color. They have been around long enough that they are old hands at running the vaccuum and I would suspect can get any color they want. It actually seems to take more skill to time the dye for a transitional depth than just thru and thru. Maybe my fight not to be a pessimist has rendered me too optimistic.....
 
I think there is a lot of truth in what you said Mike. I ordered mine knowing I might not like the dye job, but wanted CV and the pen blade on my medium stockman and that was the only option I had. The thing about this particular color of bone is that threads like this pop up all the time! Which leads me to believe that their core audience is less than stoked on this dye job. I understand having options, of course, and understand that tastes vary!
 
Any recommendations on how to clean up the blades on a CV knife after a tea n coffee spa treatment?

I did this with my CV STJ, but was able to keep the blades out of the juice. Want to experiment with my new 6375, but nervous about the blades.

Jim

The coffee treatment on my copper lock turned the blades like a black chrome kind of finish. Not your usual gray patina. I really don't know of anyway to not have this happen. I buy cv steel because I like the way it ages as you use it, gives it character that Imo stainless doesn't get. I just let cv do what it does and enjoy the signs of time!
 
I think there is at least a chance that if we asked Case they would say this particularly series was done this way on purpose. I personally get way more requests for bone that lightens to the edges so you can see contrast than I do for a consistent end-to-end color. They have been around long enough that they are old hands at running the vaccuum and I would suspect can get any color they want. It actually seems to take more skill to time the dye for a transitional depth than just thru and thru. Maybe my fight not to be a pessimist has rendered me too optimistic.....

I totally agree. That's why I started this thread was to see what you guys thought about if it was supposed to be this way or not. I was leaning towards that's how it's supposed to be. I must say though, if they make it this way on purpose, I'm not a real fan
 
Well here it is after the tea treatment. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, most definitely better than when it arrived! But I did notice that it made the scales swell up about 1/64th of an inch and they are now not flush with any edge. Hopefully they shrink back down without any damage done, I'm crossing my fingers.
 
Any thoughts on the swelling of the bone? I should have known it was gonna happen but dang it I didn't think about it. Will they shrink back at all? And if they do, will they pull away from the handle?
 
It looks much better, the exposed light colored portions looked as if they'd ground into undyed bone in my opinion. What I would do with the now slightly oversized bone, and you might not be able to do so as I have no idea of your personal abilities or what tools you might have, would be to sand it flush with fine grit wet or dry sandpaper. Start with 220 then progress finer, with like 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000,1500 and 2000, then put the finish shine back on the bolsters with a buffing wheel and rouge polishing compound. But I always keep various pieces of sandpaper around for piddling on stuff; a cheap buffing wheel that you can chuck in a drill or cordless drill and a bar of red/rouge compound will easily polish up the bolsters to put that last bit of shine back that even the 2000 grit paper can't. It would be a simple task, wouldn't take over an hour or so if you're used to working on such things.
 
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