New Model: Mora Companion Heavy Duty

The Robust certainly doesn't have a more robust tang. It is the same width (from top to bottom) as the regular companion. What I notice on mine just like shown in the OP pictures, is the separation between the handle and the blade. I'm not sure how this space in materials factors into performance and durability. But, this is something I don't notice on many pictures of many Moras I've looked at. At the very least, the fit and finish of this Robust version is off.
 
The tang of the Robust IS more Robust by virtue of being thicker. ;) And the tang on the regular Companions is already strong enough that you'd snap the blade or bust the handle before the tang itself broke.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
The tang of the Robust IS more Robust by virtue of being thicker. ;) And the tang on the regular Companions is already strong enough that you'd snap the blade or bust the handle before the tang itself broke.
Click to expand...

In other words, it doesn't make one darn difference whether you go with the HD or regular Companion. ;) Whichever ergos fit you better.
 
The blades on the High Q and Mora #1 seem to be exactly the same

The handle on the High Q is the second most comfortable handle I have held, and the handle material is great
The Helle Harmoni is most comfortable and for 7x the price so it should be....
 
The Robust blade is more robust yes, but what about the tang?? Perhaps the tang is the same as the regular Companion. In other words, the extra thickness is only at the blade while retaining the same tang dimensions as other Moras. Looking at those X-rays from Virtuovoice, it seems mora uses the same tang for many knives.
 
So, if I just ordered a HD carbon Companion, should I also get a regular Companion to round it all out for a new bushcraft student like me? What would you guys suggest to compliment the HD model prior to taking a BC training course. Thanks.
 
Machete Gringo said:
The Robust blade is more robust yes, but what about the tang?? Perhaps the tang is the same as the regular Companion. In other words, the extra thickness is only at the blade while retaining the same tang dimensions as other Moras. Looking at those X-rays from Virtuovoice, it seems mora uses the same tang for many knives.
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The tang is the same thickness as the blade. :)
 
Sorry about the tangent guys, but.................. Is anyone here steadily using a wooden gripped #1 ? Do you trust it for rugged use excluding batoning ? Trying to fight my knife lust but I am intrigued by the original design.
 
Hey bud, Ive had a few mora classics over the years and they are a great knife. I have used mine for some very rough tasks in the garden without any issues. I think putting a slight convex micro bevel is the trick.

The reason I like Moras is that I can use them in the yard and use them hard inplace of more expensive custom knives, for some tasks Ive expected them to fail like hacking through heavey vines but no they do the job every time.
 
stewey1 said:
Hey bud, Ive had a few mora classics over the years and they are a great knife. I have used mine for some very rough tasks in the garden without any issues. I think putting a slight convex micro bevel is the trick.

The reason I like Moras is that I can use them in the yard and use them hard inplace of more expensive custom knives, for some tasks Ive expected them to fail like hacking through heavey vines but no they do the job every time.
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Cool thanks. There is a chain store here called something like ree malley :D that has them in wood with laminated steel.
 
upnorth said:
Sorry about the tangent guys, but.................. Is anyone here steadily using a wooden gripped #1 ? Do you trust it for rugged use excluding batoning ? Trying to fight my knife lust but I am intrigued by the original design.
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This is a wonderfully inexpensive way to fullfill your knife lust
The plain #1 are $10 for the simple ones, and $25 for the laminated ones with a leather sheath
The laminated #1 with the leather sheath is well worth the extra, but the handle is significantly smaller
And the plain #2 has a significantly larger handle, which will give you considerabley more power in the cut

So the question is 'how strong is a rat tail knife'
For those of us that predate "full tang knives as the must have current only way to go, and if your knife is not full tang then it is worthless" .....
I use all my knives for 'rugged' use, which was using a knife correctly and cutting what ever needed cutting

So yes, excluding battoning, the #1 in wood will last for years if not abused
 
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neeman said:
This is a wonderfully inexpensive way to fullfill your knife lust
The plain #1 are $10 for the simple ones, and $25 for the laminated ones with a leather sheath
The laminated #1 with the leather sheath is well worth the extra, but the handle is significantly smaller
And the plain #2 has a significantly larger handle, which will give you considerabley more power in the cut

So the question is 'how strong is a rat tail knife'
For those of us that predate "full tang knives as the must have current only way to go, and if your knife is not full tang then it is worthless" .....
I use all my knives for 'rugged' use, which was using a knife correctly and cutting what ever needed cutting

So yes, excluding battoning, the #1 in wood will last for years if not abused
Click to expand...

Thank you for your comments. I more or less figured that any knife that has been around for as long as this one has, must be functional. But without one in hand, it sure is nice to get information from owners. This was more curiosity than anything else.
:thumbup:
 
neeman said:
This is a wonderfully inexpensive way to fullfill your knife lust
The plain #1 are $10 for the simple ones, and $25 for the laminated ones with a leather sheath
The laminated #1 with the leather sheath is well worth the extra, but the handle is significantly smaller
And the plain #2 has a significantly larger handle, which will give you considerabley more power in the cut

So the question is 'how strong is a rat tail knife'
For those of us that predate "full tang knives as the must have current only way to go, and if your knife is not full tang then it is worthless" .....
I use all my knives for 'rugged' use, which was using a knife correctly and cutting what ever needed cutting

So yes, excluding battoning, the #1 in wood will last for years if not abused
Click to expand...

couldnt agree mora:D
 
Found this:

762406816057e036c65bc.jpg
 
I have a couple of #1s that have withstood literally a decade of batonning. One of these got dropped in the ash bucket and spent 2 years outside in the ash pile, through snow and rain etc. 5 years later, it is still being batonned daily when I prepare kindling for the woodstove.

The only application that these can be easily damaged at is hard twisting. I twisted the handle right off a #2-0.
 
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