-^-^-^-^-New offering of Washboard kits!-^-^-^-^-

HeavyHanded

HeavyHanded

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-^-^-^-^-New offering of Washboard kits!-^-^-^-^-

IMG_1052_zpsccdafcd8.jpg




Ten Kits for sale, now in matte black! They come with:

One Washboard sharpening plate on wooden base - approx 2"x 8" x 1"

4 color illustrated user's guide - 8 pages

Piece of custom formulated 85% abrasive content honing compound - approx 4k JIS

One sheet of 320 grit wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper

One sheet of 600 grit wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper

Pricing is 42.00 plus $6.00 shipping to the lower 48.

The videos below show how to use it start to finish. Experienced sharpeners might choose to grind their edges some other way, and only use it for a final stropping base. I believe it is still worth every penny even if used only to finish and maintain an edge. Initially that's all I intended to use it for, but realized it didn't just work well with paper, but with all flexible substrates that aren't too thick. I seldom resort to any other method now.

The Washboard is made by hand, there may be small imperfections - will not effect performance.

Send an email through my profile page if interested, first come first serve. I will be making more of these, but as I understand the rules I am only allowed to list for sale what I have on hand? Will update this listing as I go.

Thanks for looking!

CLEAN UP YOUR EDGE WITH THE WASHBOARD SHARPENING SYSTEM!


WHAT IT IS:

The Washboard is a heavily textured 2"x8(6)"x1/4" acrylic plate bonded to a wood base (custom sizes available). It sharpens and polishes using any abrasive that can be applied to a thin substrate.


HOW IT WORKS:

An array of narrow ridges interrupted by thin relief cuts, dramatically increase the abrasive action of grease and wax based compounds to grind and polish. It manages a large improvement in plain paper for finish stropping/cleaning/tarnish removal as well. Spot pressure generated can be high enough that the steel experiences a burnishing effect similar to the use of a smooth steel, but without the need for high levels of precision, or dangers of work-hardening the cutting edge. Used with sandpaper or lapping film, it provides greater tactile feedback than a flat plate.


WHY USE IT:

Its versatile and easy.

The ridges and relief cuts work to increase the pressure exerted by abrasive particles without an increase in overall pressure, they also compress the paper and make it much more dense - the edge doesn't sink in, rounding the cutting edge as it might with a more compliant surface. Even with relatively heavy pressure the surface remains unyielding, yet burr formation is still mild compared to grinding on a fixed abrasive. Edges stay crisp and "catchy", even when stropped many times.

The ridges and relief cuts also provide much greater tactile and auditory feedback - one can tell if they are on the bevel, the shoulder, or if they are just beginning to ride the cutting edge (if one isn't at the proper angle it will feel like they're moving the cutting tool over a washboard. The amount of feedback increases as one gets further from the ideal or target angle.). This makes it a much nicer tool than many other choices when one is trying to quickly touch up an edge, or is doing a moderate amount of work restoring a worn edge. This characteristic is extremely useful for maintaining angle control when working with sandpaper or lapping films. End result is greater consistency for beginners and casual users, and greater versatility for more experienced users.

It can be used to polish larger areas and to maintain overall blade geometry during maintenance sharpening, touch up battered edges, do crisp work on V bevel, convex, Scandi etc, all with a minimum of steel loss, burr formation, and fuss. Best of all perhaps, its characteristics only change when you want them to - it is unaffected by loading, glazing, contamination, nicks in the surface.

Due to its light weight and flexibility, one can carry a complete sharpening setup that weighs only ounces yet has the feel and convenience of an 8 or 6" bench stone.

BEST PRACTICES:

It was designed to work with 20# Bond, 50# text, 75GSM copy paper - these are all different designations of the same basic copy paper. Lined writing paper found in most spiral notebooks is very effective as well. Using it with other papers or materials is possible and can yield good results, but care should be taken.

If the paper is of a lighter weight such as newsprint, the possibility of damage will increase. Either riding the outside corner of the Washboard or the teeth wearing through the paper become more likely to harm the edge or the board itself, so extra attention is important. In the interest of obtaining consistent results, avoid using coated (glossy) papers that have been printed on. While good results can be had, most end-user gloss paper might be treated with a wide variety of varnishes that could adversely effect results with no obvious cause.

If the paper is somewhat thicker than spec'd, it can be pre-compressed by wrapping it around the Washboard, and rubbing it vigorously with a clean dry rag or paper towel using pressure. Additional sheets of paper can be used if an even softer surface is desired, such as for Scandi grinds and full convex edges, or for general polishing.


Do not store or use the board with the working surface in direct contact with a stone or other hard surface - if the teeth become damaged or smoothed out, the Washboard will still work, but not as efficiently, and there is no way to repair it.


The Washboard can be used with a wide variety of abrasive compounds, simply make certain the compound is rated for steel or stainless steel, and understand if it is for heavy cleaning or final polishing. Abrasives intended for polishing plastics or precious metals will not work well if at all. Also, the abrasive must not be water-based or the paper will disintegrate with very little use if not allowed to dry.

The Washboard excels when used with wet/dry sandpaper and lapping films, simply secure around the board the appropriate grit paper and it becomes a full-service sharpening system. Remove debris from the sandpaper with a large eraser or crepe rubber. Water can be used with this sandpaper as well if desired. For maintaining edges, paper with compound is all that should be required.
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[video=youtube;aAL2zpYNhbg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAL2zpYNhbg[/video]

[video=youtube;PaBW1jCDOJY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaBW1jCDOJY[/video]


[video=youtube;UVV5aiv3V3g]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVV5aiv3V3g[/video]
 
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Fourth video in the series:
[video=youtube;fO8LtpSdPYA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO8LtpSdPYA[/video]


The fifth "how to" video, this one showing how pressure relates to use of the Washboard for tailored results. Also a few general tips for convex sharpening on a hard surface.

[video=youtube;SalomUAvMHI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SalomUAvMHI[/video]


And here's the Washboard touching up a 14" Marbles jungle machete:

[video=youtube;Uidso_8KJ38]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uidso_8KJ38[/video]
 
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When I first started to practice freehand sharpening, I started with sandpaper and glass. If these were being sold 8 months ago, I would of grabbed a set.
 
Bladenoobie1 said:
When I first started to practice freehand sharpening, I started with sandpaper and glass. If these were being sold 8 months ago, I would of grabbed a set.
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I used to sharpen with sandpaper a few years back but moved on to other means, especially after learning to do convex edges on a hard stone. I made the Washboard simply as a finishing/maintenance method to amplify and better control the action of different compounds, and that's how I used it for many months - the original prototypes were just the acrylic plate, no base. This worked well enough I knew I was never going back, the only other way to get edges with that character was to backhone on waterstones or jointer stones, neither of which was any where near as convenient or forgiving. Then I was at work and a coworker asked me to sharpen their knife, had only an early prototype kicking around under my bench, no stones. We keep AlumOx lapping film on hand for parts polishing/reconditioning, and have had good luck sharpening with it, though I never liked it nearly as much as a stone. Decided to try it anyway - worked fantastic. Picked up some wet/dry and realized it worked better than using it over glass, leather, or a metal plate (IMHO) and again, extremely convenient. I still keep the jointer stones in my bag, but they seldom see any use.

I've tried and used many methods of maintaining specific edge characteristics, but the WB trumps all of them for versatility, convenience, and consistent results. That's just the edge results, it also reinforces freehand mechanics and can be used to polish the back bevel, full convex, Scandi etc - you can't do that with a Sharpmaker or similar, and most strops cannot refine an edge like the WB can without severe rounding/smoothing of the apex. It takes the place of a finishing hone and a stropping block.

However one prefers to grind, I still believe the Washboard is more than worth it just for the finishing and maintenance aspect. I added the block per suggestions from some of the original trial users, specifically to beef it up for backpacking/outdoors use and make it easier to use with lapping films and sandpaper - means that survive rain and abuse in a pack a bit better. As a "system" its very effective - one set of skills, start to finish. Ultimately what I'm saying is, I have and am pretty good with a wide range of freehand sharpening methods, but I seldom use any of them anymore, and only for practice. Don't rule it out based on the sandpaper aspect, it does more than that.
 
Hey Martin, I have found another great use for the Washboard system,that is sharpening my titanium knives. I had been neglecting them because I did not want to contaminate my stones or strops. With the Washboard system I do not have to worry about that as I can just toss out the piece of abrasive I used on the Ti after I am done.
 
That's a new use I hadn't thought of! I use mine quite a bit on rusty, tarnished, or dirty tools. As you say - it doesn't matter. The sandpaper is easy to clean off, and the compound just gets tossed or recycled.
 
Some of the folks that bought a Washboard have been kind enough to let me quote from correspondence on this thread, along with a few comments copied from other threads that directly apply. You'd have to be pretty daring to just take my word for how well these things work, so am very happy to share some of the feedback I've been getting....

I purchased the washboard system and have been very impressed with it so far. It is a great tool to teach you consistency with your strokes, and I wish I had one for when I was first learning to freehand. The unique feedback really lets you know if you're holding the knife at the right angle. It's kind of like a guided system, but without the super high price

For reference, I have some very expensive Naniwa Chosera waterstones. I use the washboard more frequently than the Choseras.
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I picked one of these up from Martin about a week and a half or two weeks ago. All though I have not had a chance/need to do any re-profiling with the WB,I have stropped a few blades with plain copy paper and a little compound with very good results. Martin does a great job on making these. He also does a fantastic job of assembling the over all package that he sends to his customer. I was very impressed with the instructions that are included,probably the best instructions I have seen ever! You can really tell he developed this product out of the passion he has for making things sharp and he wants his customers to be able to get the most out of it as possible.
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I'm really liking the washboard and the feedback it provides; it's helped me identify certain inconsistency, and to understand better some of my (non)results up to this point.
I've also been meaning to commend you on the included manual. You definitely need to provide illustration and text credits (even just "by Martin Miller" somewhere if they're yours alone, or other attribution if you had assistance).
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I've started signing them as they get boxed up...


I have finished sharpening another scandi knife today, just good old O1 steel and it was quite dull. Anyway, I scrubbed away on 1000 JWS, then 3000, then onto your WB with 2 sheets 24lb/90g/m2 printer paper with white compound. Then plain paper, again 2 sheets. The last two strokes very light with a bit more pressure towards the apex on purpose so I could feel being "off" from the feedback (the rough sound). But the endresult is outstanding. Not sure what the plain paper can do other than burnishing the apex but it sure made a difference (a microbit of a burr that it removed?). Maintenance on white or black compound is a breeze!
Also, I used 2000 grit sandpaper the first time on the WB to remove a burr from a new scandi. I did not want to go on JWS, thought that was too cruel. Worked very well and very good feedback.
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... the more I use the WB, the more I like it and the more I think it's a jackpot for a lot of frustrated stroppers. Like me.
I guess it suits my needs, rather than forcing me to adapt to its peculiarities. I think perhaps that is what I like best about it. Thank you for being thoughtful and persistent enough to develop the idea and bring it to life.
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I still have five of the original ten, and have a few more "waiting for an opening in my production schedule" (translation: collecting sawdust on my workbench):)
 
A few more quotes, and I am now down to 3 kits. I'll have a few more ready by Monday.

After playing with this a little I am now getting it Just been using the copy paper and some compound to strop some blades and really getting some great results. Cuts the burr off after putting a bevel on with an wicked edge, cant wait to use some sand paper. Thanks so much for marketing these, your instruction booklet makes it easy!
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I don't mind you quoting me, you can keep my name in there too, I like supporting a great product like yours. I have been using some compound I had around since yours is in a drawer somewhere. The paper with some compound sure cuts nice and polishes the edge well. My EDC has a 52100 warnie blade that gets used often. I just use a sharpmaker then the block to finish it off. The edge pops hair easily and stays at a working edge after a treatment. Great product and easy to use to maintain my blades. Martin
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Hey, i'll take one. Just hit me with a reply so i know you have one in stock, and i'll paypal after that! Thanks for the vids and your service.
 
SteelStickler said:
Hey, i'll take one. Just hit me with a reply so i know you have one in stock, and i'll paypal after that! Thanks for the vids and your service.
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I sent a mssg to your profile page. Still have two and will have more ready next week. Thanks for the interest!
Martin
 
Have just sold the last of the original 10. Have blanks ready for another 5 and will be completed by this time tomorrow (10/02) or thereabouts.

Many thanks to all who took the plunge (thanks for the feedback) and those who have stopped in for a closer look, especially those that watched the videos!

As always, do not hesitate to contact me for more info/questions/comments/inquiries.

Martin
 
I gotta say that the Washboard is a great tool for sharpening.
It has helped my free hand sharpening a good bit and I have only been using it a little over 2 weeks now.

Using just paper and compound brings my knives to a new level of sharpness.
Thanks for the great system Martin.
 
Here's from a thread re burr formation and removal. Chris A felt it was helpful enough I should paste it over here, and since I respect his opinion...Its not specific to the Washboard, but definitely applicable.

My final thought on burr removal - I tend to think of them as like a door with very stiff hinges, though in fact they might be more like the tip of a Hershey's kiss. In any event, their eventual removal is taken into account as I progress through a given sharpening chore - I know it'll be there and will have to be eliminated with an intentional effort. It is an unavoidable part of the process, might as well plan for it.

As I work I like to raise the burr as even and small as possible - one of the major reasons I work in small stretches and areas of the edge. Then I flip it, once.

Like any piece of folded metal, the more times I flip it the weaker the attachment point will become - that stiff hinge will loosen up. I need a minimum amount of abrasive action to remove it, and that means a minimum amount of pressure. That amount has to be enough that the abrasive can do its job, but not enough that the burr flips on its hinge. I always shoot for a complete removal after one flip so the attachment point will have the most possible strength and I'll have the largest margin of error, relatively speaking (we're talking about a couple ozs of pressure max). Not always possible, but the more times it flips, the tougher its going to be to completely eliminate it.

I also find I have a bit more angle control on one side of the bevel than the other, so that's the side I push the burr to for a final grind-down. Final burr removal is always edge leading on a hard stone. On waterstones, jointer stones, lapping boards, it becomes more possible to remove with a trailing motion. I always finish a sharpening job with some trailing passes on compound or stone debris if possible, or at least some plain paper. The plain paper is merciless for revealing latent burrs and does a great job of stepping up an edge no matter what finish level its been sharpened to (I'm repeating myself again...).


If I'm doing a larger job - lowering the inclusive angle etc, where I can expect a larger or non-uniform burr, I'll work both sides back and forth till I reach the apex at the new angle, and then occasionally I'll raise the spine a few degrees to get a better angle on the burr. Grind it down a touch, then drop back down to the original angle to completely eliminate it with a bit more care - this speeds up the process a bit by allowing a larger margin of error for pressure and fine angle control when the burr is too large to be eliminated quickly.

If its a real coarse edge for tough work that's going to trash it several times over the course of the job, I'll use a microbevel off the rough stone and leave it at that (this is the only time I use a microbevel). I'm not real concerned about a few small burrs in that situation, just want to get a usable edge back in the game as quickly as possible. FWIW, for some "regular" (non-abusive) jobs this is an ideal edge for a tool, and in those cases I'll take a few extra minutes and completely remove the burr the deliberate way. Stropping on a few sheets of paper does a great job of hitting all the irregularities along the cutting line.
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HH, I've learned so very much from you over in the maintenance forum, I'm so happy to see you following your passion, it benefits us all. :)

I use my phone for 100% of my forum usage, if you have a signature I can't see it, (one of the downsides to using Tapatalk), I believe you may have a link to this thread in it, but I just stumbled upon it while surfing.

Without boring you with why, I can't watch videos at this time. Am I right to assume that the stroke is edge trailing exclusively? I imagine given the nature of the substrate that this is the case. I'm a huge strop fan anyway (I realize that the WB is not simply a strop), but I'm curious.
 
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