I'm sure you already know this but just in case... they make most (maybe all?) Opinel models in stainless steel as well. I don't have any stainless models so can't comment on how they are, but perhaps you might enjoy one. That can't solve any of the other issues with Opinel that don't work for your daily use so I doubt it will be a game-changer in any way, but you might enjoy.
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New OPINEL model?
- Thread starter Ultraman
- Start date
I'm sure you already know this but just in case... they make most (maybe all?) Opinel models in stainless steel as well. I don't have any stainless models so can't comment on how they are, but perhaps you might enjoy one. That can't solve any of the other issues with Opinel that don't work for your daily use so I doubt it will be a game-changer in any way, but you might enjoy.
How do you do that? I can't. I don't really try, but the blade is pretty recessed in the handle so if it's anything to do with gripping the blade, I might have trouble with it.
Regarding Opinel's Inox... I have a #10 Inox that I've treated quite roughly. The steel, as most folks know, is Sandvik 12C27 hardened to around 58Rc. In contrast, the Carbone is close to 1086 hardened to around 56Rc.
Both take similarly fine edge. On the stone and cutting wood, the edge of the Inox lasts longer and feels more like Schrade USAs old 1095 (which was hardened to around 58Rc too). 12C27 is a fine grained stainless and both it and the Carbone will dent if treated roughly (like cutting cardboard with metal staples, battoning through junk wood, cutting things off of metal pipes). Being harder, the dents in the Inox are deeper and more profound and don't come out with a simple run on a stick. But, I've not gotten it to chip either.
I've used the following stainless steels: Buck's old 440C, Buck's 425Mod, Buck's 420HC, Schrades 440A, Case's 420HC, Victorinox Inox. Opinel's 12C27 feels the most like Buck's old 425Mod. It takes a very, very keen edge. Much easier to sharpen than Bucks 440C. I like it better than Buck's 420HC, and like that steel quite a bit. I wouldn't hesitate to use the Inox for everyday use and would only demand the Carbone for a beat on it knife, but then, I would pick the Carbone above all of the others I've mentioned just because it handles abuse so well.
Regarding one hand open/close, here's how I do it.
1) Unlock the collar.
2) Flip the knife so the collar is facing down.
3) Pinch the spine of the blade with thumb and first finger. This is easier with a N9 or N10. On 8s and smaller, sanding out a bit of an easy-open dent sort of helps. A picture of an e/o N10 is below. It is also easier if you do this while pressing the knife against your thigh. Lastly, you can always resort to the " coup du savoyard" by tapping the heel of the handle hard on a firm surface (like your hip bone, ladder, whatever) to pop the tip up a bit.
4) Press the handle down and away with your second and third finger. At this point, the knife will be about 1/4 of the way open.
5) Holding the spine firmly, hook the butt end of the handle on your thigh and lever the knife to the fully opened position. At this point, you will be holding the blade in a "choked up" position.
6) Place the butt of the handle against your thigh (or whatever) to stabilize the knife and slide your grip down to the handle.
7) Lock the collar.
For closing:
1) Unlock the collar.
2) Close the blade by pressing the spine against your thigh (or whatever)
3) Lock the collar.
This process is slow compared to modern flippers and, unlike modern flippers, it requires practice. It is also safesince there is no spring involved. This particularly true when closing it, but it is also true when opening compared to one hand opening lockbacks using the same technique.
Buck 110 and Opinel #10 by Pinnah, on Flickr
Both take similarly fine edge. On the stone and cutting wood, the edge of the Inox lasts longer and feels more like Schrade USAs old 1095 (which was hardened to around 58Rc too). 12C27 is a fine grained stainless and both it and the Carbone will dent if treated roughly (like cutting cardboard with metal staples, battoning through junk wood, cutting things off of metal pipes). Being harder, the dents in the Inox are deeper and more profound and don't come out with a simple run on a stick. But, I've not gotten it to chip either.
I've used the following stainless steels: Buck's old 440C, Buck's 425Mod, Buck's 420HC, Schrades 440A, Case's 420HC, Victorinox Inox. Opinel's 12C27 feels the most like Buck's old 425Mod. It takes a very, very keen edge. Much easier to sharpen than Bucks 440C. I like it better than Buck's 420HC, and like that steel quite a bit. I wouldn't hesitate to use the Inox for everyday use and would only demand the Carbone for a beat on it knife, but then, I would pick the Carbone above all of the others I've mentioned just because it handles abuse so well.
Regarding one hand open/close, here's how I do it.
1) Unlock the collar.
2) Flip the knife so the collar is facing down.
3) Pinch the spine of the blade with thumb and first finger. This is easier with a N9 or N10. On 8s and smaller, sanding out a bit of an easy-open dent sort of helps. A picture of an e/o N10 is below. It is also easier if you do this while pressing the knife against your thigh. Lastly, you can always resort to the " coup du savoyard" by tapping the heel of the handle hard on a firm surface (like your hip bone, ladder, whatever) to pop the tip up a bit.
4) Press the handle down and away with your second and third finger. At this point, the knife will be about 1/4 of the way open.
5) Holding the spine firmly, hook the butt end of the handle on your thigh and lever the knife to the fully opened position. At this point, you will be holding the blade in a "choked up" position.
6) Place the butt of the handle against your thigh (or whatever) to stabilize the knife and slide your grip down to the handle.
7) Lock the collar.
For closing:
1) Unlock the collar.
2) Close the blade by pressing the spine against your thigh (or whatever)
3) Lock the collar.
This process is slow compared to modern flippers and, unlike modern flippers, it requires practice. It is also safesince there is no spring involved. This particularly true when closing it, but it is also true when opening compared to one hand opening lockbacks using the same technique.
Buck 110 and Opinel #10 by Pinnah, on FlickrAwesome pic! I love the #10, it's my favorite size of Opinel.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2006
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I have an Opinel DIY, a gift from member ScruffUK. I find it a big large for front pocket carry. It is, after all, a number nine. But I mostly wear carpenter jeans and the #9 fits nicely in the leg pocket.
I found that the screwdriver bits work well. You can get pretty good torque on the handle, though you have to avoid tweaking the blade. I found that the position of the bit in the use position at the base of the handle gave good access to screws. It's almost like having a stubby screwdriver, but with a large, hand filling handle. When in use, a magnet holds the bit in position. In the stowed position, the bits are very secure, as they are wedged into position. Loss of the bits seems unlikely to me.
The blade cuts like, well like an Opinel. Takes a very fine edge and slices well. Opinel runs their stainless blades at ~58HRC. So, the steel hardness and composition are a close match to Buck 420HC.
There is a wire stripper notch and a wire cutter notch. The cutting edge starts beyond them. This means that while the blade is ~3 1/4", the cutting edge is ~2 1/4". I have not found this to be a hindrance in daily use around the house and in the back yard. While I have not used the notches on wire, I have found them to be useful for cutting stringy vines, the kind that have tendon-like threads in them. Also good for trimming minor branches in the garden.
I like the blade shape. I suppose I don't really need the wire notches, but I don't really object to them either. They do come in handy for some chores.
All in all, it's a "do-it-yourself" knife. It's designed to be carried and help with chores, as opposed to being an outdoorsman's knife per se. Since helping with household fixits is the major reason I carry a knife, this is a good fit for me.
I like it. YMMV.
Here is a view where you can see the start of the cutting edge...
I found that the screwdriver bits work well. You can get pretty good torque on the handle, though you have to avoid tweaking the blade. I found that the position of the bit in the use position at the base of the handle gave good access to screws. It's almost like having a stubby screwdriver, but with a large, hand filling handle. When in use, a magnet holds the bit in position. In the stowed position, the bits are very secure, as they are wedged into position. Loss of the bits seems unlikely to me.
The blade cuts like, well like an Opinel. Takes a very fine edge and slices well. Opinel runs their stainless blades at ~58HRC. So, the steel hardness and composition are a close match to Buck 420HC.
There is a wire stripper notch and a wire cutter notch. The cutting edge starts beyond them. This means that while the blade is ~3 1/4", the cutting edge is ~2 1/4". I have not found this to be a hindrance in daily use around the house and in the back yard. While I have not used the notches on wire, I have found them to be useful for cutting stringy vines, the kind that have tendon-like threads in them. Also good for trimming minor branches in the garden.
I like the blade shape. I suppose I don't really need the wire notches, but I don't really object to them either. They do come in handy for some chores.
All in all, it's a "do-it-yourself" knife. It's designed to be carried and help with chores, as opposed to being an outdoorsman's knife per se. Since helping with household fixits is the major reason I carry a knife, this is a good fit for me.
I like it. YMMV.
Here is a view where you can see the start of the cutting edge...
I might have to practice it, in theory I feel like even with as light as an Opinel is (or maybe because of that) I wouldn't be able to do it well. Interestingly I can do a one-hand drop of a Buck 110 (no reason to and I rarely do it, but I tried it a few times just to see.)
I read about this on 'British Blades', where opinion was sharply divided: some loved it, some hated it, few were neutral. I think it looks great, especially the grey-handled one, and may be very useful too, though I'd prefer the screwdriver bits to be longer: being so close to the handle might make them awkward in confined spaces.
I'd be happy to see the basic Inox Opinels available with plastic/nylon handles. I still like me my beech, but there are times when dunk it in hot running water and get all the crap out and let it ride along in the bottom of the boat type of treatment is called for.
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2009
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If this winds up being a "handy" knife that rides in the tool box, glove box, or in a camping/bug out bag/utility kit, that might not be a problem. Those look to be standard 1/4" drive bits that are available at any of the big box stores and most hardware stores. If that is the case you could buy a small kit that had hex nut drivers, phillips and flat bits, torx bits, etc., that are available in different lengths in all in one box in small kits.
Keeping that around within easy reach of the knife would increase the utility value of the knife quite a bit.
Robert