New Question about Auberins SYL-2352P

Grandpa Jon said:
Hubert- this morning I went out and isolated my thermocouple from the PID to see if that may be the culprit; unfortunately it wasn't even after turning it off/on the PV still read 2393F. I did notice that when I turned the power on (each time) I'd get a quick flash of code, then the PV value would read 32F and the SV read o, then there was a slight pause and I could hear a click almost as if a relay was engaging and the PID read the 2393/orAL. I did cut my teeth in BEE (Basic Electricity/Electronics- Analog & vacuum tubes in the military) and know enough to be a serious threat. Hopefully I get lucky real soon- thnx for the intel!!!
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When you say isolated, do you mean disconnected? I think this will always lead to the orAL error. To test if the thermocouple is bad, you can just short the thermocouple terminals (4&5) on the PID with a piece of regular wire. This should make the PID think that it's reading close to room temperature. Make sure you have the Sn value set to 0 for a K-type couple. Actually, check that first. If it was set to 20 or higher, it would explain the error code. If it was set to zero and you are using a K-type thermocouple, then the thermocouple is bad if shorting the terminals clears the error.
 
Hubert S. said:
When you say isolated, do you mean disconnected? I think this will always lead to the orAL error. To test if the thermocouple is bad, you can just short the thermocouple terminals (4&5) on the PID with a piece of regular wire. This should make the PID think that it's reading close to room temperature. Make sure you have the Sn value set to 0 for a K-type couple. Actually, check that first. If it was set to 20 or higher, it would explain the error code. If it was set to zero and you are using a K-type thermocouple, then the thermocouple is bad if shorting the terminals clears the error.
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To be clear, by "short the terminals" I mean replace the thermocouple with a regular piece of wire.
 
Hubert S. said:
To be clear, by "short the terminals" I mean replace the thermocouple with a regular piece of wire.
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So I jumped the thermocouple as you'd and I'll be hornswoggled if that didn't do the trick. Just fired it up and back to square one for programming. Thanks a lot Hubert
 
Grandpa Jon said:
So I jumped the thermocouple as you'd and I'll be hornswoggled if that didn't do the trick. Just fired it up and back to square one for programming. Thanks a lot Hubert
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Can you post your wiring diagram and some pictures of your oven? I think you have hardware/wiring issues, not PID programming issues.

I know you know this, but my suggestion to short the terminals was just meant as a diagnostic tool and you should not operate your oven with the jumper wire instead of a thermocouple...
 
You're correct- when I used a jumper wire, the PID responded as if the thermocouple was working correct. So I broke my oven down and saw some charring that had occurred: switched out the old thermocouple and replaced it and wiring for that as well as my element coil, buttoned everything up turned it on and problem solved. I'm going to check later on to see if it was the actual thermocouple causing the issue or just the wiring.
 
Just to make sure - did you wire the TC to the PID with type K TC wire? It is color coded and polarize. It has to be connected to the correct leads on the TC as well as the PID.
 
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