New rehardened and regrinds blades

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Apr 10, 2000
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Hi All,

Received total of 5 blades. All extreme cutters. Haven't even sharpened all of them yet. But whatever I have tested, it's just spectacular.

Of those 5, 4 were rehardened by Phil Wilson. 2 Benchmade Nimravi, 154CM and M2, 710 M2 and Kershaw Shallot 110V. Phil also rehardened another 710 M2 blade for me, which I have been using since 04/09.
The last one, wasn't a regrind, it is a custom blade, rather an experiment, very thin and hard(62HRC) CPM 3V blade form Phil.

Both folder blades were reground by Tom Krein.
Mimravus 154CM was reground by Phil Wilson, yes he does it!
Nimravus M2 was not altered except for the HT, which I now regret, and I'll be sending it back to Phil Wilson for the regrind. Seeing what a reground 154CM blade can do, I want M2 Nimravus with the same blade geometry.

Nimravus:

154CMblade, which I recoated with boron carbide back then, when bodycote was still accepting custom orders. I thought it was M2, but turned out to be 154CM, Phil found that out and spent quite some time tinkering with HT. Came out 62HRC. That actually is probably overhardened for 154CM, but I still wanted it at that level. No plans for chopping or prying with it. Phil asked if I wanted regrind, since we were trying to optimize the blade for pure cutting performance. I agreed.
I was cautious initially, since I didn't know how would it behave. So, the edge I ground was 15 per side. High polish, 100K edge. Went through several whetstones(500, 500, 1200, 3000, 5000, 10000) and microabrasive charged strops. I've had around 350" cardboard left after testing 3V blade. Compared to original Nimravus which is pretty good cutter by itself, reground Nimravus is more like a laser. If I was to guess, since I don't know how to measure force when cutting cardboard, it's at least 2 times less effort physically.
There were no chips from cardboard cutting, so I picked up some dried wood and whittled for about 5 mins. No chipping again. Then I did what Phil used to do for testing his blades, stick the blade into the wood and pry pieces out. Approx 5-7mm deep incisions, prying, no chipping again. I did few shallow cuts for prying again, to test may be if it was just the very edge embedded in the wood it'd chip, nothing. As Norwegian knifemaker F. Haakonsen said, if it doesn't chip on wood whittling then it's good ;)
Finally I cut the RG6 coaxial cable (the newer, thicker type they use for cable tv). and that did chip the blade in one place, around 1mm long.
I made a loop and pulled knife and cable in opposite directions. Took quite some effort to get through the cable, several layers of copper, aluminum and whatever else shielding. I'm pretty sure if I cut the same cable on the hard surface, just by pushing down on it, the blade wouldn't chip. I'll test that next weekend I guess.
All in all, I think that is exceptionally good result, for 154CM at 62HRC it's really, really good - for light cutting ;)

Folders:

Top one was my EDC, 64.5HRC, original blade geometry, ~20 deg. total edge. Bottom, M2 steel, 64HRC, Tom Krein regrind. I've cept the serrations, but the blade has been thinned down considerably. Sharpened it yesterday, all the way to 100K. ~ 24deg total edge. I never had to sharpen EDC M2 since april, once I did touchup on 10K stone and the rest was just stropping on 0.25mic leather strop. I really forgot how much wear resistant M2 is at 64HRC.

Cutting ability or the regrind is significantly better compared to the top blade. I have to test how will it hold up with rough use, but for light stuff improvement is very good. Second photo shows blades from the edge side, top id the original edge, bottom is the regrind. You can see it's considerably thinner, well the spines are the same thickness obviously.

That's the 62 HRC, 1.15mm thick blade I asked Phil to make. Even though he's knives are generally thin, he wasn't very sure about that one, but I really wanted to see how it'd perform. Once I got the blade and checked it out, I wasn't so sure myself if it was a good idea to make it that thin, the blade had a flex, and it came out longer due to my conversion error. Well, after cutting with it I am glad it's 1.15 mm thick. Nothing in my 200+ knife inventory cuts with that efficiency. Phil himself was quite impressed with its cutting ability. I gave it the same sharpening treatment, as 154CM Nimravus, 15 deg per side, 100K polished edge. After ~400" cardboard it lost hair whittling ability, but as far as shaving goes in either direction, it was still effortless. Cutting free hanging newsprint was also not a challenge. I did few minutes of wood whittling/prying, no chipping. In the end, at 62HRC 3V makes very good light cutter. It's relatively finer grained steel and takes very keen edge.

Last one, Kershaw Shallot S110V. Rehardened by Phil Wilson, 64HRC (original 59HRC). Regrind by Tom Krein. Didn't sharpen it yet. It's not gonna be easy, both Richard J and Tom Krein had hard time polishing and regrinding it. It's more wear resistant than M2 and at 64HRC M2 was quite hard...
 
Hey :) Long time no talk. Good to "see" U again.
yeah, you'd definitely appreciate cutting ability of those...
 
Great collection there, I am getting really envious! 1.15mm 62RC 3V is something I would LOVE to cut with. I got lucky with my Benchmade Rift as it is 154CM and Phil Wilson tested it at 61RC, and it really performs. Hect the factory edge is .014" thick so it cuts great with excellent edge retention for a steel that a lot of people don't think is good enough to be considered premium anymore (the Manix 2 backlash is what I base that statement on). I hope to see Phil Wilson in December and may just have to drop off my S90V Manix 2 blade to have him bring it from 58-59 RC to 61+RC. Considering my experience with the factory Spyderco S90V heat treat, which is quite good, I can't imagine how great the slicing edge retention of S110V at 64RC is. You can probable cut cardboard until you get carpal tunnel before needing to resharpen it.

Mike
 
Very cool post :thumbup: but be careful cutting coax it is NOT copper.
 
VERY interesting, a delightful read. Those regrinds look great. Now you have light sabers, especially that 1 mm 3V blade :eek::eek::eek: I've adopted 16 gauge solid copper wire as my standard test for chipiness. I tape the copper onto a block of wood and baton through it. Have you tried something similar?

I added your results to my "Max hardness w/o significant chipping" database. Maybe you can mention some of these kinds of results in your database as well.
 
Yeah looping a cable and slicing it like it is rope is going to be a real edge killer. Those hard thin knives sound great. I'm jealous.
 
Thanks guys.

I was trying to figure out how much I had to abuse the knife to get the chipping.

I decided not to postpone test and I cut the same coax cable with the same 154CM knife, same edge. This time I simply put the cable on the wood base and batoned through. No chipping and no edge rolling that I could see under 5x lupe. :)

So, it may highly depends on HT method and Phil would be the best person to ask about that, but to me as an end user the result is extremely good.
154CM steel which has a reputation for being chippy, and I complained about that in my reviews of BM 154CM blades as well is taken to 62HRC and works just fine.
It is light user, and everything up wood whittling and even smaller copper wires is no danger to the 15deg per side edge...

Cotdt, sure I'll be happy to add any practical, knife related info to the steel charts.

Mike, I'm planning to sharpen 110V blade next weekend. Tom did put initial bevel and the edge, which if I am not mistaken is 220grit or may be 400. So, I'll be finishing that with the usual steps.

I'll post an update how it goes.
 
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Gator, do you feel your taking the time and effort to sharpen it to such a high polish would change the "chippyness" factor compared to the same steel say, at DMT 1200, with a simple diamond ( DMT) type strop?

BTW, thanks for taking the time to test and report your results. Very good stuff!
 
Yeah, I am certain about that. I've observed both, light use in the kitchen and chopping with kukris. In both cases more polished edge was more durable in terms of chipping. I've peered into the microscope long times for that...
 
Why are you keeping your M2 so soft? :D You should be able to get it up to 66 HRC, IIRC.

I've waited a good long time for my elbow to heal (old injury), and it's feeling pretty good. I think I'm going to take my M2 blades at 66 and compare them to 10V at 64.5. I just have to go and buy a couple of hundred feet of rope from Lowes. Ah, let the good times roll!
 
:) Phil said since it was first HT, he'd just follow the "book" and that's how those two came out. Alvin Johnston mentioned before M2 at 66HRC, and once TBrogan mentioned another maker taking M2 there. May be after Phil tinkers with M2 he'll feel comfy doing it at 66HRC too. Of you will ;)
But I think it's time to switch to M4...
 
M4 is some great stuff at 62.5 RC, I'd love to try some at 65 RC+. I must say though at 62.5 RC the edge retention is very good and I was able to chop off four huge piggy legs at the knee joints and the head without taking chips. It is a very well balanced steel in terms of superior edge retention and pretty good toughness. Both my Krein Ultimate Caper (I've had it since 2007) and my M4 Mule are over 62 RC and perform better than I could expect them to. The sharpness you can get with this steel is nothing short of amazing and the corrosion resistance isn't too bad either.

Mike
 
M4 is some great stuff at 62.5 RC, I'd love to try some at 65 RC+.

Mike

Mike, how long does a skinning blade need to be? I was thinking of doing a passaround of "Mini-Mules" with 2.7" inch blades, with the M4 @ 66 rc already grounded. I'm also planning to grind an identical blade using S125V @ 65 rc and have people compare edge retention.

CPM M4 66rc "mini-Mule":

minimule2s.jpg


Sorry to hijack your thread, Gator.
 
Mike, I've heard you're taking your edged to 0.05mic? Those M4 too?

P.S. No problemo Cotdt. It was about high performance cutters, so any new info is good.
 
Mike, how long does a skinning blade need to be? I was thinking of doing a passaround of "Mini-Mules" with 2.7" inch blades, with the M4 @ 66 rc already grounded. I'm also planning to grind an identical blade using S125V @ 65 rc and have people compare edge retention.

CPM M4 66rc "mini-Mule":

minimule2s.jpg


Sorry to hijack your thread, Gator.

As long as an index finger has always been enough for me, though shorter would be okay as well. Just keep it over about 2". ;)
 
:) Phil said since it was first HT, he'd just follow the "book" and that's how those two came out. Alvin Johnston mentioned before M2 at 66HRC, and once TBrogan mentioned another maker taking M2 there. May be after Phil tinkers with M2 he'll feel comfy doing it at 66HRC too. Of you will ;)
But I think it's time to switch to M4...
Don't tempt me. :eek: :D I'm the kind that likes to take it to the edge. Then close my eyes, hold my breath, and take one more step...

I'd love to see a cut off of optimally hardened M2 and M4....
 
As long as an index finger has always been enough for me, though shorter would be okay as well. Just keep it over about 2". ;)

Thanks for the input. I know 66 rc knives should be small, but I don't want them to be so small that they're useless.

I'd love to see a cut off of optimally hardened M2 and M4....

You can use a hard M2/M4 blade to cut the edges off of the softer knives.
 
cotdt, that blade should work just fine as a skinner. The Mule Team is only 3.3" or so, and I really don't think I'd miss the 1/2", especially with that choil on the blade you pictured.

Yes, I take my knives to .05 microns when I want that really polished, show off sharp edge. They excel at whittling (wood and hair) and anything push cutting, but on pure slicing work like skinning and rope a coarser finish is a much better performer than polished to the moon. I've been playing with DMT Coarse finishes with a light stropping on a leather strop loaded with some diamond spray, and for S90V and M4 it works real nice. The M4 whittles hair easily even at that coarse grit after the light stropping to remove any burr left over (I try to make sure there is no burr when I take a knife straight off the stones, but I do the stropping just in case and because Phil Wilson recommends it, and Phil's recommendation is good enough for me) and the S90V pops hair like a champ, and they really slice WAY better than the ultra polished edges can on thick, abrasive stuff like pig skin and thick rope. The .05 micron edges are pretty amazing when whittling, push cutting cardboard, or pretty much push cutting anything else. They also will do an irritation free shave on your face if you wish.

Mike
 
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