New scales for my NOe

Wicked said:
I used No 4 stainless steel tube to make the fasteners.

I flared the tube fastener with the heads of two countersung bolts and a vice.
This was the easiest way I could think off and it workes very well.
Had a real hard time to get it off again.

That is a SWEET idea!! If I may ask, where did you get the stainless tubes? And does it seem to hold up as well as the origionals?? Also what kind of countersunk bolts did you use??
Thanks man! :thumbup:
 
Done for now.
I was not lucky in getting new original scales so I finally decided to give the old scales a new finish. I also used a layer to increase the thickness of the scales. The handle fits now perfect in my hand. Its not quiet what I wanted but it will be my user anyway.
Good to know too that I can re-scale it again if I want to.

Before


After





Re-scaled it again
 
Awesome job! I have been polishing my ST Ripper by hand for days. I'm not removing the slabs, but it is great to see the task done well. Thanks for sharing and congrats on a beautiful knife.:thumbup:
 
Awesome job! I have been polishing my ST Ripper by hand for days. I'm not removing the slabs, but it is great to see the task done well. Thanks for sharing and congrats on a beautiful knife.:thumbup:

Thanks, I did get the NO for a very good price so I had nothing to loose.
But it still took a while until I was ready to remove the scales, even on this used NO.
 
Man,

That looks outstanding!!!


Congrats!


I'm doing the same with an old SJ I got!


Thanks, it's gonna be much more fun using it now that's for sure.

The riveting is very easy, no special tooling required, just a vice.
I can give you details if you decide to remove the scales.

Good luck, it's worth the effort :thumbup:
 
Hi,

what did you use to get that satin finish? It looks awesome! :thumbup:

First I polished the blade with wet sand paper final grid was 1000.
Then i used a scotch bright pad which was big enought to cover the blade.
I glued in on a boad and attached it to the workbench with a clamp.
Now you can pull the blade over the scoth bright pad with a straight stroke until you have a even texture satin finish.
 
What material did you use for the extra handle layer? Do you have any pics of how you pressed the rivets in?

Nice work! :thumbup:
 
What material did you use for the extra handle layer? Do you have any pics of how you pressed the rivets in?

Nice work! :thumbup:


It was just a sheet a 0.078" plastic I had laying around.
I don't know wha type of plastic it is but it is flexible and not very hard so it can absorb shock loads without breaking.

Sorry, I did not take pics of the riveting.
 
Very nice work. You now have a beautiful user. You are braver than I am, drilling the fasteners off would scare me to death.
 
I made a little How To Do since a couple of you HOG's were interested in more details.
Just use a piece of wood instead of a knive to show the riveting process.


Required Tooling:
Vice
File
Metal saw
Drill 6.5 mm (1/4“)
Hammer
Little screwdriver
Hole-punch or steel rod (big nail etc) which fits in a ¼ hole

Required Material:
1/4 “ stainless steel tube 3-4” long
2 screws or bolts with countersunk head and a none threaded section. The one threaded section should fit in ¼” tube
Grease

This is a description how I did it. It is up to you and your responsibility if you decide to do it.

I recommend doing some test rivets to find out if the tube you use can be flared without cracking.



Removing the rivets:
The head of the original rivets can be drilled out with a 1/4” drill.
Be carefull and stop drilling when you notice that you break through the rivet material.
You can now easily remove the head with a little screwdriver etc.
Support the scale and punch the rivet out.
If you choose to use a nail cut of the spike to not expand the rivet and makes it difficult if not impossible to punch the rivet out.
I drilled a ½” hole in a piece of wood and attaché the knife with to little screw to it.
You can now put the wood in the vice and have both hands free for the job.
This way you support the handle well while punching the rivet through the handle in the ½” hole. Also works well when you polish the blade.





Installing the rivets:
Cut the heads of the two countersunk bolts off with little of the none threaded section remaining.
Cut the bolts short enough so they will not touch during riveting!
The bolt head must be big enough to flare the tube and to not touch the scales with the vice during the riveting process.


Cut of three pieces off the tube to be used for riveting
As rule of thumb, the tubes should be 3mm (0.12”) longer as the thickness of the handle of the assembled knife.
This may vary depending on the different scales.
You can also use the original rivet to figure out how long the rivet-tube has to be and if the rule of thumb will work.
Make sure that you clean the tube from burrs etc. otherwise you may get a not so pretty finish.


Grease the heads of the bolts slightly to make flaring easier.


Assemble the scales and stick at least two, better all three tubes fasteners in the handle.
Put the countersunk heads on each side of the tube to be flared and put it in a vice.


Centre the handle on the tube before pressing it together. Hold the knife in that position and start pressing.

Don't press to hard it does not take very much pressure.
Just squeeze it a little further once the rivet is seated.
You can always apply more pressure when you notice it was not enough but you can't fix a broken scale.



The rivets hold very well. I was surprised how well.
They will fill out the holes in the knife during pressing without any clearance left and will attach the handle rock solid to the blade.
No adhesive required.

Good luck if you decide doing it.
Let me know if you have any question.

Wicked
 
This is one of those invaluable threads that we will try to search for eventually. Just like the threads on stripping blades and posting pics. It would be nice to sticky this.

Wicked, Thanks for sharing, Great info.:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
Thanks for the rivet tutorial Wicked! :thumbup:

I've got a user BA3 coming, I plan on removing the scales for bead blasting or polishing. Your info will come in handy!


-Ed
 
Very informative thread.:thumbup:
I am glad that there are people who experiment on Busses.
 
Outstanding! Very cool of you to show and give the details on "how to". This thread is going to be a keeper. As I'm sure that NOe is going to be! You've got a big chunk of yourself in that knife now! Way to go bro. :thumbup:
 
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