Recommendation? New Sharpening System

cbwx34 said:
Haven't used the Go model... it's the same principle though... so the results should be pretty much the same.

Edit: BTW, not trying to sell you on the W.E.... just pointing out the differences with the KME... since it was brought up.



If that's all you noticed... scary. :eek:
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Perhaps it's a difference in perspective?

When you're starting with a chipped, rolled and uneven edge and going all the way up to a sub-micron polish it takes forever. So the difference in what I'll call "handling time" seemed negligible to me. For simply going from dull to sharp the percent change may be more substantial.

I think we can all agree though that they'll both serve the end user very well.

I'm excited to see the W.E. Go. It's another very useful system from an American company with good service and finally at a reasonable price.
 
Jsmalley9 said:
When you say you used it professionally do you mean the KME or the WE GO?
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Well, a Wicked Edge. It wasn't the Go, but the Go is just a pared down version of the system I had. They're the same in most practical aspects.

I was using a Wicked Edge Pro Pack 3 I think when I started my sharpening service, along with some additional stones and strops.

I had a KME before that for personal use which was then gifted away. It's always been what I recommended when someone wanted more than a Sharpmaker.
 
T.L.E. Sharp said:
Perhaps it's a difference in perspective?

When you're starting with a chipped, rolled and uneven edge and going all the way up to a sub-micron polish it takes forever. So the difference in what I'll call "handling time" seemed negligible to me. For simply going from dull to sharp the percent change may be more substantial.

I think we can all agree though that they'll both serve the end user very well.

I'm excited to see the W.E. Go. It's another very useful system from an American company with good service and finally at a reasonable price.
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I'll agree to that. :thumbsup:

T.L.E. Sharp said:
Well, a Wicked Edge. It wasn't the Go, but the Go is just a pared down version of the system I had. They're the same in most practical aspects.

I was using a Wicked Edge Pro Pack 3 I think when I started my sharpening service, along with some additional stones and strops.

I had a KME before that for personal use which was then gifted away. It's always been what I recommended when someone wanted more than a Sharpmaker.
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Just outta curiosity... what are you using now?
 
cbwx34 said:
I'll agree to that. :thumbsup:



Just outta curiosity... what are you using now?
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TSProf K02 with Shapton glass stones. I'm getting great results now, but I can't really recommend the system yet. I had too many problems with mine and my order.

@S.T.A.T.E.S. here on the forum is functioning as a domestic distributor for them now though, so hopefully the issues I had won't persist.
 
I guess this may be a little bit outside of the scope of my original question by a touch, but I have 2 further questions.
1. Goes to you TLE - if money were absolutely no object, which method and accompanying product(s) would you choose to sharpen your personal knives? To clarify a little - try to not consider any advantages that particular style may affect for you professionally.

2. To anyone that may read this - with skill in each being equal, what method would allow someone to get the sharpest edges with a fair amount of practice? And I know that there are a few leaps involved in that question - but I'm asking more generally
 
Jsmalley9 said:
2. To anyone that may read this - with skill in each being equal, what method would allow someone to get the sharpest edges with a fair amount of practice? And I know that there are a few leaps involved in that question - but I'm asking more generally
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When I first got into sharpening... I was more into the various sharpeners (and still am I suppose)... but if I started over, I'd focus on learning to sharpen freehand. (Why I recommended the WSGSS earlier). If I was going to keep one setup... it would either be the WSGSS, or just a decent coarse/fine diamond stone, and Heavyhanded's Washboard for a strop (love that thing). You may not get the "sharpest edges" out of the gate... but the more you practice, the better they'll get. And, it sort of changes the focus from sharpeners to actually sharpening, if that makes sense.

I think the quality guided devices are good... and if you want the absolute sharpest and/or perfect mirror polished edges, etc. then head that route. But freehand changes the focus a bit from sharpeners to sharpening... and has become more enjoyable (and practical) to me anyway. (And if you're going to get into knifemaking... I would think it would help in that area too).

Once you get the basics down, you can expand in whatever direction you desire... for example, waterstones for more polished/mirror bevels, "powered sharpeners" if you want to speed up the process, etc. ... all become easier once you have the basics down.

p.s. If the KME/W.E. was a bit of a distraction... sorry... although I do think it brought out some differences, if that's the route you decide to take.
 
Jsmalley9 said:
1. Goes to you TLE - if money were absolutely no object, which method and accompanying product(s) would you choose to sharpen your personal knives? To clarify a little - try to not consider any advantages that particular style may affect for you professionally.
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Honestly, probably the same TSProf system I have now.

My biggest issue with the Wicked Edge personally, and the reason I wouldn't buy another, is the abrasives. They're fine, don't get me wrong, but the Edge Pro has the full scope of both Chosera and Shapton stones available to it which are much, much nicer to use.

The TSProf system allows you to use Edge Pro style stones in a more versatile clamped jig, like the KME.

Again, I can't recommend it to others really, but for myself I'd probably buy it again.

If money IS an object though, I'd get a sharpmaker and a 1x30 belt grinder.
 
T.L.E. Sharp said:
My biggest issue with the Wicked Edge personally, and the reason I wouldn't buy another, is the abrasives. They're fine, don't get me wrong, but the Edge Pro has the full scope of both Chosera and Shapton stones available to it which are much, much nicer to use.
...
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Ok... don't shoot me... but you can also get the Choseras and Shaptons for the W.E. BUT, I tried Choseras on the W.E., and... yuck. (Let's wet a stone, then stand it up on end and watch what happens). All the water/slurry runs off. (Even "upside down" on the horizontal sharpeners... it works much better). Probably why the trend with the W.E. users is the diamond films and/or strops.

T.L.E. Sharp said:
If money IS an object though, I'd get a sharpmaker and a 1x30 belt grinder.
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I personally would pick the KO WorkSharp with the BGA over this (designed for knife sharpening and variable speed)... and skip the Sharpmaker altogether (a single ceramic rod or the aforementioned Washboard strop instead).
 
I really want to thank the two of you (and everyone else for that matter) for taking the time to answer my questions and explain them so my dumbass actually understands :D. I've gotten some really great info, although I'm still not entirely sure what I should do first. I think what I've learned most from all of this is that I really need to try them all and see where that gets me. I've gotten fully into this hobby at this point so let's just be honest and say that at some point I likely will have freehand, guided free hand, and totally guided systems. Maybe not all at the same time, but if I've learned anything about the knife world it's that we always seem to want more. More knives, more equipment, more toys for the knives etc.
 
I prefer hand sharpening, primarily on diamond 'stones'. I suppose it's considered a skill to develop and you can do it wherever without some huge contraption. It's also good to know what your blade steel feels like against an abrasive, how it sounds, how the edge feels/looks at various stages of sharpening. You also have infinite control of the angle of the blade, angle of approach, exactly where the abrasive is contacting the steel etc. It's a classic 'manual vs automatic' battle that rages on across all different areas of life, from knife sharpening to painting etc. I personally enjoy sharpening and maintaining blades, the process/result is satisfying and it's relaxing/meditative for me.

I use a combination of DMT diasharp plates, some natural & synthetic stones for finishing and strop with/without compounds. I'm not a professional but I can get them stupid sharp and polish em shiny if so desired. The path of learning was littered with miserable failures of course. You said you are getting into making blades? I'll keep it 100% here and say I don't think I fully trust a blade craftsman who doesn't at least know how to somewhat sharpen steel by hand. Hey man, to each their own.
 
Michael - I'll be sure to look into that!

S4mpson - I appreciate your candor. And I do mean that sincerely. I absolutely plan on getting stones and getting much better sharpening by hand. I know how to do it now and can get lucky every once and a while using one of my friends' stones to sharpen a knife passably. This thread has morphed a little bit. Originally I was intending to find out what sharpening system would be best for me NOW, while also taking into consideration the fact that I'm saving money to put together my own shop. I also work in a kitchen for a living and am the only one at my restaurant that has the ability to sharpen knives right now, so that responsibility has fallen on me. So considering all of that I came here to ask advice from those of you more knowledgeable than I on whether stones, paper wheels, or a system of some sort would be my best bet
 
Old Traf said:
What accessories/upgraded items have you added to the basic K02?
TIA
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Shapton glass stones, cktg diamond stones and a number of strops that I made myself. I've also added a much larger ball for the handle.
 
cbwx34 said:
While technically you're correct, that you can't "stroke both sides at the same time"... if you've used a W.E. for any length of time, you'd see the difference. It's a bit more than just eliminating the "flip" time. (Think of having a KME where, as you moved one stone off the edge in a stroke... the next one was already headed down the edge... if that makes sense). And, especially in finishing a blade... where you alternate strokes to clean up the edge... the W.E. just does it better. You'll really see the difference if a blade needs some serious work. Not saying that any of this can't be done on the KME... but it is different. (In addition, sort of related, is the way stones are changed on the W.E. vs. the KME... a quick swap vs. stopping, unscrewing one and screwing in another). Like you, I think horizontal does give a bit better view... but it's easy enough to adapt.

Again, the "cheaper to add accessories" is a bit of a misnomer. It is cheaper because you add a "smaller amount" to the KME (one vs. two stones)... although overall it's a cheaper route, it's not as big a difference as it appears. I do think, in the case of some "hobby sharpeners". this may be the better way though, because it is a cheaper way to try stuff without having to buy 2 (or 4) of everything.... if that makes sense. (IOW, I can buy one 600g Chosera if I want to try it on the KME... really can't do that on the W.E. without some effort anyway). But if you plan on using stones/strops more than just a trial... the cost difference isn't as great in the long run.

Like I said, both will get a knife sharp... just a bit different way of getting there. The choice depends on what's important to the user in the differences.
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WHat turned me off on the WE is that with certain type os blades you have to shim the clamp to keep
cbwx34 said:
While technically you're correct, that you can't "stroke both sides at the same time"... if you've used a W.E. for any length of time, you'd see the difference. It's a bit more than just eliminating the "flip" time. (Think of having a KME where, as you moved one stone off the edge in a stroke... the next one was already headed down the edge... if that makes sense). And, especially in finishing a blade... where you alternate strokes to clean up the edge... the W.E. just does it better. You'll really see the difference if a blade needs some serious work. Not saying that any of this can't be done on the KME... but it is different. (In addition, sort of related, is the way stones are changed on the W.E. vs. the KME... a quick swap vs. stopping, unscrewing one and screwing in another). Like you, I think horizontal does give a bit better view... but it's easy enough to adapt.

Again, the "cheaper to add accessories" is a bit of a misnomer. It is cheaper because you add a "smaller amount" to the KME (one vs. two stones)... although overall it's a cheaper route, it's not as big a difference as it appears. I do think, in the case of some "hobby sharpeners". this may be the better way though, because it is a cheaper way to try stuff without having to buy 2 (or 4) of everything.... if that makes sense. (IOW, I can buy one 600g Chosera if I want to try it on the KME... really can't do that on the W.E. without some effort anyway). But if you plan on using stones/strops more than just a trial... the cost difference isn't as great in the long run.

Like I said, both will get a knife sharp... just a bit different way of getting there. The choice depends on what's important to the user in the differences.
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The thing that turns me off about the WE is the fact that with certain blade types you have to shim the blade in the clamp to keep it completely vertical. If you don't you will have a larger bevel on one side than on the other. For the amount of money spent you shouldn't have to do this (design flaw). It is much harder to keep something in a clamp vertically precise than it is keeping something horizontally precise. Another advantage to the KME is being able to either place it in the base or use it by just holding it as it was originally designed to be used.
 
wrightwrjr said:
The thing that turns me off about the WE is the fact that with certain blade types you have to shim the blade in the clamp to keep it completely vertical. If you don't you will have a larger bevel on one side than on the other. For the amount of money spent you shouldn't have to do this (design flaw). It is much harder to keep something in a clamp vertically precise than it is keeping something horizontally precise. Another advantage to the KME is being able to either place it in the base or use it by just holding it as it was originally designed to be used.
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The third gen clamps (i.e. we130 2017 version) on the wicked edge are self-centering with manual tension adjustment and don't have a problem with any blade grinds or distal tapering. They do need an adapter for blades thicker than 3/16", though the adapter is also self-centering.
 
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