new sheath design

I like this a lot Bud:thumbup: I have a leather neck sheath from Rick Garcia aka Rayban with magnets for my Izzy II & have had zero issues in the last three years I've owned it:thumbup:
 
I have and use a wicked edge sharpener, but not to re profile a FF blade, but do so on some of my other knives. It does create a bit of metal shavings, but I keep the area and sharpened knives clean. But some one is actually OCD enough to complain that a few magnets might cause a 'problem'? Geez.
 
I've got an Edge Pro, close enough to the Wicked Edge sharpener in this discussion. I've had a little slip sheath with rare earth mags on a carving knife (1095, not that it matters) and haven't noticed much magnetizing. It's not a daily carry knife so I cannot really comment on how it would affect one.

I did have a discussion a while back about this very topic and I believe the overall feeling was that it would be okay.

For what it's worth, I like the sheath quite a bit. Might not be good for someone with a pacemaker, but other than that I wouldn't worry about it too much.
 
Hey Bud,

Shoot me a price on one with FF spidey tooling in walnut brown. Based on past experience, I am sure it will be top notch quality. I would just forget this conversation with Beast.
 
Hey Bud, I just want to be clear on something in my description above. When I refer to re-profiling the the blade, I am only referring to re-profiling the cutting edge. For example, if a knife comes from the factory or maker with 20dps (40 degrees inclusive) and I sharpen it at 15dps (30 degrees inclusive), I consider this re-profiling the cutting edge. I have done this to many Fiddlebacks including my Runt. The overall blade shape and geometry is not modified, only the cutting edge. In this process, there are a lot of metal filings produced on the WE, the Edge Pro or any other sharpening system where you are putting a more acute cutting edge on the blade than what is currently on it.
 
MVM ... I was very clear on what you meant with the first reply. I hardly see why one would be re profiling a brand new fiddleback .. but to each his own, so knock yourself out. It won't affect the knife fitting into this sheath. ;)
 
I am also not sure why one would want to reprofile a convex Fiddleback into a V-grind. I guess to each their own.
 
Hone said:
I am also not sure why one would want to reprofile a convex Fiddleback into a V-grind. I guess to each their own.
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I actually convex the cutting edge by doing a 15dps to the apex, then put 18, 17 and 16dps facets. Then strop the facets into a convex cutting edge. Or some variant there of. I have yet to receive any Fiddleback that I would consider "scary sharp", either new but especially used. I can get any Fiddleback scary sharp using this method, and I have not learned nor perfected the mouse pad and sand paper technique. However, I have sharpened some Fiddlebacks to a V edge. If I am working with 01 steel, the most acute I will go is 16dps. I find that CPM 154 holds up well at 15dps. For the most part, Fiddlebacks come with more of a V edge than a convex one in that none are what I would call a 0 grind convex, albeit knowing Andy's process they are technically convex cutting edges. Personally, I find nothing wrong with V ground cutting edges, but I fully understand and appreciate the benefits of convex cutting edges for certain tasks.

But, bonafide is correct, none of this effects how the knife will fit into his excellent neck knife sheath prototype.:encouragement:
 
Mr. Bud, you've created a winner (in my opinion) on this new design! Would this type of design house just the runt model?
 
Bud and I do different styles of sheaths, but I totally agree with him on the use of magnets for the neck carry sheath he's presenting. I've used them this way for years and learned the method from guys doing it much longer. It works, the magnets last, the knife will stay in the leather, have never heard of any problem with blade becoming magnetized. If you like the look, buy it and don't worry.
 
Thank Rick. :thumbup: very much appreciated. I got the idea from Carl (CRex) last year when I met him at the fall hammer in. He was wearing an inverted neck knife in leather and i asked him, how the heck does it stay in there!!?? It took me this long to give it a go.
 
Yep, Carl's the guy! He's made a ton of those little neck knives with that sheath style of his. He's a pretty sharp guy all around and my best friend. Carl and I split a cabin at every Track Rock Hammerin and if you're at the next one, plan to spend at least one evening at the cabin for supper, adult beverages and solid conversation. Might even talk about leather.:D
 
Sounds like a plan! I had to work for the Spring event. I'll be sure to put in for days off for the Fall. :thumbup:
 
Great sheath Bud. My runt's gone...gotta get another....

Could you sew a bale into the tip and double stitch it? That would open up some interesting inverted carry attachment devices besides leather - including a carabiner...if so, I'm gonna need one in Kryptek Typhon :thumbup:
 
McVeyMac said:
I actually convex the cutting edge by doing a 15dps to the apex, then put 18, 17 and 16dps facets. Then strop the facets into a convex cutting edge. Or some variant there of. I have yet to receive any Fiddleback that I would consider "scary sharp", either new but especially used. I can get any Fiddleback scary sharp using this method, and I have not learned nor perfected the mouse pad and sand paper technique. However, I have sharpened some Fiddlebacks to a V edge. If I am working with 01 steel, the most acute I will go is 16dps. I find that CPM 154 holds up well at 15dps. For the most part, Fiddlebacks come with more of a V edge than a convex one in that none are what I would call a 0 grind convex, albeit knowing Andy's process they are technically convex cutting edges. Personally, I find nothing wrong with V ground cutting edges, but I fully understand and appreciate the benefits of convex cutting edges for certain tasks.

But, bonafide is correct, none of this effects how the knife will fit into his excellent neck knife sheath prototype.:encouragement:
Click to expand...

Wow, this is way too much for me to take in. Are we still talking knives....lol. I appreciate the level of detail stated, but I could never take it this extreme. I just want a knife that will cut and do what I need.

I am impressed with your level of detail Mac.

Martin
 
cmroberts1 said:
Wow, this is way too much for me to take in. Are we still talking knives....lol. I appreciate the level of detail stated, but I could never take it this extreme. I just want a knife that will cut and do what I need.

I am impressed with your level of detail Mac.

Martin
Click to expand...

Sorry Martin, I'm a sharp freak.
 
Sharpening nuts are a whole different breed of knife user. I had my Opinel down to 7° (inclusive) after thinning the whole blade. That's straight razor territory. Definitely an interesting sub-hobby that gets very expensive and the learning curve can be brutal. Spend far too many hours in the maintenance & tinkering forum and it'll all start to sound normal. :D
 
Strigamort said:
Sharpening nuts are a whole different breed of knife user. I had my Opinel down to 7° (inclusive) after thinning the whole blade. That's straight razor territory. Definitely an interesting sub-hobby that gets very expensive and the learning curve can be brutal. Spend far too many hours in the maintenance & tinkering forum and it'll all start to sound normal. :D
Click to expand...

LOL, I thought my post was normal. Thanks for pointing this out to me Martin, I'll try to do better next time.
 
Finished 3 more ..

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