New Stamp

John Katt

John Katt

Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
7,863
Well with everyone getting stencils, etchers, stamps, and laser etching all over the place I was starting to feel a little left out, so I finally pulled the trigger on my new stamp, I decided on my design last year so the hard part was already over :0)

A few weeks ago www.steelstampsinc.com came up in another thread, so on a Saturday afternoon I sent out an email expecting to hear back sometime the following week, and to my surprise Tim Purdy returned my email Sunday morning, I proceeded to tell him what I wanted, he sent me an image and a price the same day, then we set up a Monday phone call to close the deal, I was given a 3 week lead time date and that was it...easy peasy

To my surprise my stamp came today, 7 days early, You gotta love service like that Right??

At the same time I sent out 3 other emails to 3 other stamp companies, two I never heard back from and the other one replied 8 days later, I guess those guys are rich and dont need my money

So anyway here it is ;0)

 
Chomping at the bit to get mine. Tim called me the day after I sent an email, I ordered 2 and am around the 3 week mark, hopefully they come soon. Looks good John.
 
Sorry to butt in, but do you by any chance know whether thre are any restrictions on minimum width of the lines in the stamp? I personally use a rather elaboarte stamp (a sort of ex libris-cum-personal stamp which might look good as a tang stamp- but unfortunately the stamp size is proportional to min. line thickness)... I know it sounds daft, but if I was to make a tang stamp such 'detail' would greatly influence the type of the stamp and its 'implications'.
 
Nice. I did 1/16" on mine just so I could fit it on ricassos. I also have 11 characters and at 1/8" I thought it would be too big.
 
setlab said:
What did it set you back if you mind me asking?
Click to expand...

170.00 plus 5.95 shipping

Wolf_HR said:
Sorry to butt in, but do you by any chance know whether thre are any restrictions on minimum width of the lines in the stamp? I personally use a rather elaboarte stamp (a sort of ex libris-cum-personal stamp which might look good as a tang stamp- but unfortunately the stamp size is proportional to min. line thickness)... I know it sounds daft, but if I was to make a tang stamp such 'detail' would greatly influence the type of the stamp and its 'implications'.
Click to expand...

Wolf_HR I would love to answer your question but you're asking a carpenter turned hobby knife maker and I haven't the slightest idea what can and cannot be done with steel stamps, Tim seems like a great guy drop him an email
 
Looks good John. Do you use an impact press or strike with a hammer? I'm contacting the stamp company in Bridgeport Ct. that made the stamps for my great grandfather in 1926. A 100 year old company.
 
William Schrade said:
Looks good John. Do you use an impact press or strike with a hammer? I'm contacting the stamp company in Bridgeport Ct. that made the stamps for my great grandfather in 1926. A 100 year old company.
Click to expand...

I used a 16oz ball peen for the marks in the picture and I had to strike it pretty hard to get the mark, I'll probably step up to my 3lb cross peen next time, should be able to slow things down a bit with that hammer and get a deeper mark with a single hit

Sure would be cool if you could find one of the stamps your grandfather used ;0)
 
Thanks Lo/Rez

I wanted something simple, and choosing comic sans as my font just seemed right, LOL
 
John, glad to see another "stamper". I've been using my stamp for over twenty years and it's still going strong. I tried etching but what turned me off was that most of my blades are mirror polished and if I wanted to touch up the blade on the buffer after I marked it with an etcher it seemed to mess up the mark. stamping is forever. the one thing I found out right away though is getting it right on the first strike, to solve that I had a stamping jig made up. once the blade is clamped in it you can hit it all day till next Tuesday and the mark will not jump or shadow, just go deeper. here are a few pictures of my jig to give you an idea. the second picture has a heat treated blade in the fixture just for reference, of course if you strike a hardened blade, game over Ha Ha......
SN851156_zps6da7b93c.jpg

SN851157_zpscedd053c.jpg

SN851161_zps4d8c777e.jpg

IMG_0031_zps7b834d48.jpg

SN851150_zps3d3cefc9.jpg
 
bladegrinder said:
John, glad to see another "stamper". I've been using my stamp for over twenty years and it's still going strong. I tried etching but what turned me off was that most of my blades are mirror polished and if I wanted to touch up the blade on the buffer after I marked it with an etcher it seemed to mess up the mark. stamping is forever. the one thing I found out right away though is getting it right on the first strike, to solve that I had a stamping jig made up. once the blade is clamped in it you can hit it all day till next Tuesday and the mark will not jump or shadow, just go deeper. here are a few pictures of my jig to give you an idea. the second picture has a heat treated blade in the fixture just for reference, of course if you strike a hardened blade, game over Ha Ha......
Click to expand...

I've been looking at stamp jigs since William made mention of them above, and I have to say yours looks like the best one so far, with any luck I should be able to make one just like it without to much trouble

Thanks for the pictures ;0)
 
A basic jig works, too - I went mega-basic welding two pieces of channel and some grinding inside to smooth it out so the stamp slides. It helps me a lot, but I will make that Jig you have featured -Wonderful!
jh3qzr.jpg

2igixwo.jpg

21en342.jpg
 
bladegrinder said:
John, glad to see another "stamper". I've been using my stamp for over twenty years and it's still going strong. I tried etching but what turned me off was that most of my blades are mirror polished and if I wanted to touch up the blade on the buffer after I marked it with an etcher it seemed to mess up the mark. stamping is forever. the one thing I found out right away though is getting it right on the first strike, to solve that I had a stamping jig made up. once the blade is clamped in it you can hit it all day till next Tuesday and the mark will not jump or shadow, just go deeper. here are a few pictures of my jig to give you an idea. the second picture has a heat treated blade in the fixture just for reference, of course if you strike a hardened blade, game over Ha Ha......
SN851156_zps6da7b93c.jpg

SN851157_zpscedd053c.jpg
Click to expand...

I just wanted to say that is a pretty damn sexy jig for stamping.
 
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