new sword forge

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Jul 8, 2008
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Well I decided to make a large forge for heat treating big choppers, and a couple of swords that I want to make. Got the idea from the first blades guide to making knives, in the chapter by don fogg. I looked for a link to his forge, but could not find it on the net. so I figured that if I had problems, someone else might also, and so here is what I built. it seems that the sword forges are not near as common as normal sized ones, and WIP's aren't very common, or at least I was only able to find a few.

If anyone has a link to don fogg's forge I would love to see it. It seems his website is down.

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I started with a 40 gallon gas hot water heater. cut the ends off, while keeping the rims intact as I wanted it to stay round. then lined it with the 1" body soulable refractory blanket with stainless wire used to hold it to the sides of the forge, and then coated it with kastolite. then I ran some more stainless wire through the top to hold a baffle pipe, which was the flue from the hot water heater. had to make a new back as the bottom wouldn't work right. the front door, I may tinker with to make it a little nicer, as right now it just kind of sits there and isn't really stable. built a forced air burner with 1/4" pipe threaded on the inside for removable orifices, welded inside 1 1/2" pipe for the rest.

I did have problems with the air flow through the forge for awhile, there is a good sized hole in the back door that lets burned gas escape, and she seems to run best with the front door not closed all the way for more combustion air. and she takes about 30 minutes to come up to temp.

but she is very nice! with the baffle tube, once she is up to heat, I can place a blade in the baffle and watch it come up to temp, go through the phase change, steady out and then pull for the quench. no more pumping the blade back and forth in my forging forge {the rack she sits in has the sword forge on the bottom, my big forging forge in the middle, and my little forge on top so they don't take up much floor space}.

interior dimensions are 42" long by 13" inside diameter. I suppose I could cut a hole in the back door where the baffle tube ends and then could do a longer blade by pumping it back and forth.

I can also take the baffle out, and just use her as a large forge pretty easily.

the next few modifications to her will include a removable heating element and PID controls for her to double as a tempering oven, and I also have a gas setup from a kitchen oven that works ok also. and I would like to find a 1 1/2" brass air control valve, but they seem to be in short supply in the hardware stores at the moment, so that is why I have the plastic one on there.
 
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Holy schmoly thats a big girl...
Very cool. I like the integrated muffle pipe.

Would seem like the proverbial hammer flyswatter with my knife sizes :)


-Eric
 
Eric, thanks!

she is pretty much just a large chopper and sword heat treating forge though. I did forge out a couple of gladiuses the other day that Ill use her for soon!
 
John White uses a smaller version of the Fogg forge to heat treat big bowies, etc. You might want to drop him a note.
 
Joe, that looks good. I really like your can-do attitude, and you've made some great tools! I plan on using a similar water tank for my upcoming sword forge project as well. I too, get tired of pumping larger blades through the forge. The baffle tube is a good addition, and I'll probably try to integrate one into mine as well.
Thanks for posting that. The only thing cooler would be a vid of it heating a blade...
 
thanks for the links guys! I didn't see the oil drum forge that was in the book in there, but the sword forge that is in there with the 2 burners sounds like a nice one!

Salem- thanks man! you will love the larger forge when you build it!

the way I put the baffle in, I can swap it out for a larger one if I need to do a wider blade, or replace it when it burns out pretty easily.

the biggest change I will make to this one in the future is to coat it with satinite. I really don't care for the kast-o-lite, but I had a 50 pound bag of it on hand so that is what I used. ill have to shop around for a big bag of satinite soon. I do like the superwool though, as they say it is body soulable, so its not so important to coat it I guess.

I would post a video, but don't know how to do that yet. also I wonder if the camera would catch the colors. it seems like everytime I try to get a pic of a hot forge, it just appears very bright.
 
Is the inside coated with refractory cement? I can't tell. If it is, that must have been a pain.
 
yes, it is coated with kastolite. it wasn't too bad to coat it, roll the forge upside down, coat the top, then roll it a quarter turn and coat, and keep going till all coated. then touch ups afterwards. it helps to spray the wool down with water first also. I had both ends open while coating also, so just a 2 foot reach in from each end. then made the back door separate
 
just a quick update, I had my friend down at the appliance repair place do some scrounging for me, and we came up with the guts out of a natural gas kitchen oven. changed the orifice on the control valve, drilled a hole in the top of the forge for the thermocouple to slip into, extended the burner, and she can now double as a tempering oven!

still have to play with the settings, and a dedicated sword tempering oven and separate forge would be better, but for the small shop with limited space, I think this will work out well

got the settings figured out, and from what my thermomters say, she will hold about a 7 degree tolerance around the set point inside the baffle tube over the hour that I was taking readings every 15 minutes. so if set at 400, she will cycle between 393-407 inside the baffle. not bad for a salvage yard project
 
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