New the knife making

anytime you push real hard with a bandsaw,you're looking to lose a finger.not much control when murphy's law kicks in.i agree with the 0-1.
 
miden said:
"I have lowered the revolutions to the drill press and im eating 3/16 like its butter :thumbup: "

Sounds like you are getting somewhere now. :D
The books are a good idea though.
Check out this link too. Plenty of good info.
http://www.engnath.com/public/manframe.htm

Are you going to forge or just try stock removal for starters?
Got a grinder, or just some files and a lot of heart? :)

Good luck.

Mike
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doing stock removal. Plan to build a mini forge for the heat treament. I was thinking of getting a disk grinder but wayne goddard says that its not recommanded. only because you need skill with a grinder. So i might go files. But if someone recommands a cheap grinder for me to buy i might take it into consideration.

Anyway last night i drilled holes into the 5160 and use the bandsaw to cut out the rest of the pieces. Looks real good so far. I will post pics later
 
Wayne is right about the grinder, any machine is potentially VERY dangerous. Lethal in fact, my best buddy killed himself with an angle grinder 22 years ago. The blade shattered and he did not have the guard on and a piece hit him in the heart.
I changed the appearance of a couple of fingers with the same type of tool many years ago too. Just an instant of not paying attention cost me dearly and I was not new to using that damned thing AND the guard was on.

What Tom says about the bandsaw is equally true. I work in a tool shop and have seen guys get terrible injuries and always because of attention lapses or pushing too hard. Use a push stick, any piece of wood you can hold comfortably.
Your fingers naturally align themselves with the blade because that way you get the best force, same as like when you point at something, always on target. So if you slip.....dire consequences because you are applying force towards the blade and you cannot pull back quickly enough.
That wood saw of yours is not the right tool buddy, and if you friction cut you need to apply a lot of force. You should never apply a lot of force with ANY tool, the tool must do the work, you just guide it.
If you cannot lower the RPM of the saw with a smaller drive wheel like I suggested in a prevoius post then rather just grunt it out with a trusty old hacksaw. Mind your little finger though, it is inclined to want to stick out like when a toffee nose drinks tea out of a fancy teacup. One slip and the pinkie hits the vice or the job.
Always think of where your fingers and hands will end up if something slips.
Those fingers are your 10 best tools and there are no spares in stock!! :cool:
A regular bench grinder will help you a lot, 6" or 8" wheel. You can remove the high spots left between the drilled holes and profile the blade well enough with it. With this you must also NOT get impatient and force. Grind lightly and the job will not heat up too quickly either, steel is an excellent conductor of heat! Be patient, concentrate and think what you are doing! And enjoy it. You are doing something that a lot of people only dream of doing.

Sorry if I sound like a teacher but machines are really lethal. Take care and post that pic. :thumbup:

ps, do you intend to do flat, convex or hollow grinding?
 
miden said:
Wayne is right about the grinder, any machine is potentially VERY dangerous. Lethal in fact, my best buddy killed himself with an angle grinder 22 years ago. The blade shattered and he did not have the guard on and a piece hit him in the heart.
I changed the appearance of a couple of fingers with the same type of tool many years ago too. Just an instant of not paying attention cost me dearly and I was not new to using that damned thing AND the guard was on.

What Tom says about the bandsaw is equally true. I work in a tool shop and have seen guys get terrible injuries and always because of attention lapses or pushing too hard. Use a push stick, any piece of wood you can hold comfortably.
Your fingers naturally align themselves with the blade because that way you get the best force, same as like when you point at something, always on target. So if you slip.....dire consequences because you are applying force towards the blade and you cannot pull back quickly enough.
That wood saw of yours is not the right tool buddy, and if you friction cut you need to apply a lot of force. You should never apply a lot of force with ANY tool, the tool must do the work, you just guide it.
If you cannot lower the RPM of the saw with a smaller drive wheel like I suggested in a prevoius post then rather just grunt it out with a trusty old hacksaw. Mind your little finger though, it is inclined to want to stick out like when a toffee nose drinks tea out of a fancy teacup. One slip and the pinkie hits the vice or the job.
Always think of where your fingers and hands will end up if something slips.
Those fingers are your 10 best tools and there are no spares in stock!! :cool:
A regular bench grinder will help you a lot, 6" or 8" wheel. You can remove the high spots left between the drilled holes and profile the blade well enough with it. With this you must also NOT get impatient and force. Grind lightly and the job will not heat up too quickly either, steel is an excellent conductor of heat! Be patient, concentrate and think what you are doing! And enjoy it. You are doing something that a lot of people only dream of doing.

Sorry if I sound like a teacher but machines are really lethal. Take care and post that pic. :thumbup:

ps, do you intend to do flat, convex or hollow grinding?
Click to expand...


Sorry to hear that man and yeah me and my bro learned a valueable lesson today. I told him to wear safety glasses and he didn't want to pay attention. Then he got a little flinch of steel that hit his eye but he is fine he was able to take out the little piece and he is getting his eye checked out by an eye doctor. Anyway i did the drills and cut the piece out. Then i used the "high speed" bandsaw to cut through. Then i pulled out my pops old grinder and this is the progress so far.



Looking good folks. If you got any advice on making the edge it would be greatly appreciated.
 
get a few metal cutting cutoff fiber wheels and put one in your circular saw. fairly quick cut and pretty straight,,, but wear ear protection cause its gonna sound just like my sister-in-laws voice.
 
....and of course eye protection, otherwise you will never see your sister-in-law....... ;)
 
lol gotta read my above post. We learned a valueable lesson. If you guys got tips for grinding the edge. I would really love to hear some. Even if you got some tutorials to go by. The books don't really define how to really work an edge. It just says file or grind but what about making the center line or what grit grind belt do i use?
 
I think your best bet instead of the band saw is to use a cheap Harbor Frieght cut off saw to cut the bar stock down and then use a grinder to get the final shape. Otherwise you'll be there all year with the band saw regardless of what blade you pick. Harbor Frieght always has some kind of special going on so I'd check there. I think I paid like $30 for my metal cut off saw from them and it could use more power but it gets the job done for smaller cuts on up to 3/16" bar stock for me.

As for bandsawing: A multi speed band saw is your best bet for metal so you can slow it down and one like my 14" Delta/Rockwell in size is probably going to perform better than a smaller one on metal to really handle the load thicker metal will put on it. At least a 3/4 hp motor on it also would be advisable. I put a 1hp on mine and it handles 1/8" bar stock pretty well now. I cut some D2 bar stock in that thickness in half with it today in fact and it went right through it. I most always use my bandsaw to cut out my locks and liners for my folders but rarely for bar stock though.

I don't spend a lot of money on blades because when cutting metal they don't last long regardless of what you buy. I just look for fine tooth metal and wood cutting blades and they seem to work out fine. Lately the ones I've been getting from Sears in a fine tooth (not skip tooth) seem to work just fine for cutting out my ti from 1/8" on down to .040 thick stock.
 
I know nothing but am learning too. I saved this for a rainy day to the point of saving on my own computer in case it went from the web.

Oh and to stop your steel making a lot of noise, screw it to a piece of wood and drill/cut the wood as well. Use a G-Clamp to anchor it to the bench, they seem to be called 'Carriage Clamps' over here.
========================================
Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives.

Let me start by saying that I am a newbie and I don't have all the answers, but I can tell you how to have a little fun making knives.

http://hossom.com/tutorial/jonesy - 16 KB
 
miden said:
....and of course eye protection, otherwise you will never see your sister-in-law....... ;)
Click to expand...
hmmm if i didn't use my eyes for other stuff,,,, wouldn't be that bad of a trade. thats an ugly woman.
 
STR said:
I think your best bet instead of the band saw is to use a cheap Harbor Frieght cut off saw to cut the bar stock down and then use a grinder to get the final shape. Otherwise you'll be there all year with the band saw regardless of what blade you pick. Harbor Frieght always has some kind of special going on so I'd check there. I think I paid like $30 for my metal cut off saw from them and it could use more power but it gets the job done for smaller cuts on up to 3/16" bar stock for me.

As for bandsawing: A multi speed band saw is your best bet for metal so you can slow it down and one like my 14" Delta/Rockwell in size is probably going to perform better than a smaller one on metal to really handle the load thicker metal will put on it. At least a 3/4 hp motor on it also would be advisable. I put a 1hp on mine and it handles 1/8" bar stock pretty well now. I cut some D2 bar stock in that thickness in half with it today in fact and it went right through it. I most always use my bandsaw to cut out my locks and liners for my folders but rarely for bar stock though.

I don't spend a lot of money on blades because when cutting metal they don't last long regardless of what you buy. I just look for fine tooth metal and wood cutting blades and they seem to work out fine. Lately the ones I've been getting from Sears in a fine tooth (not skip tooth) seem to work just fine for cutting out my ti from 1/8" on down to .040 thick stock.
Click to expand...


yeah i was able to get some 5160 1/8". My band saw does just find. Today Sanded the sides with 80grit on my auto sander. It looks sweet, i have the metal in some oil so it doesn't rust over the night. I will take pictures soon. But again i really need some times on doing the edge. Can someone post a tutorial on the edge?
 
http://www.ihostphotos.com/show.php?id=176987

Hey guys been awhile. Well i did the edge can't see to well in that shot. I want to do a satin finish but i dont know how. The holes look bad because as you know the blade wasn't stable enough to drill. Well looks like alot still has to be done on this one. Can anyone give me info on doing a satin finish ?
 
Either sand to 320-400 range and quit,or sand then bead blast.There are satin finish belts,but they don't do much unless the finish is almost right to start with.
 
bladsmth said:
Either sand to 320-400 range and quit,or sand then bead blast.There are satin finish belts,but they don't do much unless the finish is almost right to start with.
Click to expand...
when im sanding, i should go in one direction ?
 
I am not Bladsmth but yes, only sand in one direction, otherwise you get those annoying little marks when you change direction. Sounds like you have already encountered them!

Mike
 
miden said:
I am not Bladsmth but yes, only sand in one direction, otherwise you get those annoying little marks when you change direction. Sounds like you have already encountered them!

Mike
Click to expand...
lol yes i have. Thx mike
 
Gee,I sort of like all those little "J" marks from sanding back and forth.
Seriously,Finish sanding in one direction with smooth strokes.
 
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