New Ti/CPM4 Millie Not Smooth At All....

[Geode]

Sorry to hear about anyone who has issues with their Millie, mine seems right on the money.

I would guess that Spyderco will make things right if you are not happy with the way your Millie's action or blade alignment.

 

[webb_jr]

Reeek / Planterz, you guys nailed it. Pivot adjust / slab loosening solved the centering issue; she's dead nuts now. Though, it's quite a bit tougher to open and close since. If I loosen the pivot too much it slides back out of center. If I tighten it too much, the lock barely engages. I think I've got her where she needs to be but the action is really stiff both ways. Lube / oil and play with it now? :jerkit:

I hope I didn't turn anyone off to the knife, I guess when the hype and anticipation reaches almost "grail" proportions, the expectations are high.

Anyway, I'm feeling much better. Thanks fellas!

Webb_Jr

 

[The Mastiff]

Quality on mine is up to expectations. I've had sharper blades from the Golden plant but I'm really having to get picky to find a problem. I feel pretty fortunate to have it and can't but help think of all the years I've wanted a knife with the features and performance this one has. It's a keeper and will get some good use along with good care.

These knives are what I only dreamed about back in the 80's, 90's and even into this century. Things keep getting better and better.

 

[KeithAM]

The Sebenza is the single finest crafted, precision made production knife, period. It has this "issue" too, when new. Keep working the action, and it'll break in.

I agree completely. New Sebenzas I've had had the same kind of feel. They take a while to break in, and get smoother over time. When they are fully broken in, they're as smooth as butter.

Another explanation of why it may not seem as smooth as you'd like is discussed at the end of this link:

http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showpost.php?p=615808&postcount=9

But I didn't even notice any lack of smoothness when I got mine--I still think it feels fine. I suppose there could be some variation from knife to knife as to how well finished the blade is where the detent rides.

I predict yours (and everyone's) will get smoother with use.

 

[symphonyincminor]

Put some oil on the ball-bearing detent and you should be good to go..... it should smooth out just fine after a few openings.

If that doesn't fix it, there may by gunk build-up between the bronze washers (every new knife I've ever bought has this). Put a drop or two of your preferred oil/lubricant around the pivot and hit it with some compressed air.

In my experience, mineral oil is good for the blade, but doesn't last nearly as long as an opening/closing lubricant as something like Mil-tec.

 

[Reeek]

Leave her there and work her for a while. She should stay centered and should smooth out as you work the acton over time. Maybe some good after market lube too. Not much though. You just need some burnishing to take place.

Reeek / Planterz, you guys nailed it. Pivot adjust / slab loosening solved the centering issue; she's dead nuts now. Though, it's quite a bit tougher to open and close since. If I loosen the pivot too much it slides back out of center. If I tighten it too much, the lock barely engages. I think I've got her where she needs to be but the action is really stiff both ways. Lube / oil and play with it now? :jerkit:

I hope I didn't turn anyone off to the knife, I guess when the hype and anticipation reaches almost "grail" proportions, the expectations are high.

Anyway, I'm feeling much better. Thanks fellas!

Webb_Jr

 

[JNewell]

I may open mine up and re-lube with CRK grease. I don't usually use that on other company's folders, but it was an amazing upgrade for my Gayle Bradley, and it might be a good choice here, too.

 

[clockman]

I've worked the action of my Ti/m4 Millie several hundred times trying to get the

rubbing noise/feel out of the opening / closing. I have to have the blade

adjusted 80% to the right to get the smoothest(least rough) action.

Im going to ship it back to Spyderco to get it "right" like most other members

recieved their ti/m4 Millies.

I shouldnt have to call them 1st. when I have these issues.

I have 12-15 other frame lock knives. This knife is the only frame lock knife

with any problems.

 

[unit]

I may open mine up and re-lube with CRK grease. I don't usually use that on other company's folders, but it was an amazing upgrade for my Gayle Bradley, and it might be a good choice here, too.

I HATED my early version ti Military when I got it. Got ticked off and tossed it in the drawer for many months (never carried or used). One day I got bored enough to take it down and clean out the factory lube and put in some CRK grease...and it is a totally different knife.

I have no issues with Spyderco, but something about this knife (perhaps the ti/PB washers?) absolutely blew-goats out of the box, and CRK grease seems to have entirely fixed the problem.

 

[berserk87]

My Sage 2 had the same grinding/scraping sound and feel.

After 50 or so openings the ball bearing had worn a slight groove/track in the blade and is now very smooth opening and closing.

Take into consideration the wear resistance of M4, but maybe the Millie will be similar??

I have the same problem with my Sage 2. I hope the problem solves itself as yours did.

 

[dsmegst]

Mine is pretty smooth and didn't require any break in. It's much stiffer compared to the Para 2 with the pivot bushing but for a conventional pivot, not bad at all. The blade is perfectly centered and the lock up is tight. It's about as good as it can be.

Push the lock bar all the way towards to the clip and work the blade. If that's smooth, then it's the detent ball. If it's still rough, then there might be some grit between the blade and the bushings.

 

[ctk123]

Mine is pretty smooth and didn't require any break in. It's much stiffer compared to the Para 2 with the pivot bushing but for a conventional pivot, not bad at all. The blade is perfectly centered and the lock up is tight. It's about as good as it can be.

Push the lock bar all the way towards to the clip and work the blade. If that's smooth, then it's the detent ball. If it's still rough, then there might be some grit between the blade and the bushings.

great advice to help narrow down the issue.