New tilting 2x42

Thank you, Josh. Great post.

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This is the perfect example of how to properly show a product you want to recommend. It shows a great photo and gives information on where you can find it. It does not mention price and it does not have a direct link to a sales site.
 
If you go to the website you can download the manual with the parts breakdown exploded view. Looks like it would be very simple to convert to 72 using bar stock or cut down angle iron for more rigidity. I have been looking at them for a few weeks, it has to be a new offering. I can't find reviews on YouTube, Instagram, nothing. It's a ghost and that's damn near impossible now.

Edit: I just ordered one. They have been out of stock for like 3 weeks. They said in stock just now so I went for it.
 
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I think rigidity would be a problem expanding it to 2X72. The tool arms are only flat stock. Looks to be 1/4" thick. The work rest is only 1/8" thick. Still, at 38 pounds it likely has some degree of sturdiness. It isn't intended to be a TW-90 or Reeder level grinder, but as an entry level or small backup grinder it looks quite promising.

2X42 works the same as 2X72. It is the 2" part that matters most. 3/4 HP won't hog down a bowie from .200" stock, but will quite easily handle smaller knives and handles.

From what I can get by using the 1/8" table as a measurement gauge, the frame is around 3/16" and the tool arms are 1"X1/4"

One thing to note is a replacement motor is only $70 less that the whole unit. I think if you eventually needed a new DC motor, Amazon would be your friend.
 
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I think rigidity would be a problem expanding it to 2X72. The tool arms are only flat stock. Looks to be 1/4" thick. The work rest is only 1/8" thick. Still, at 38 pounds it likely has some degree of sturdiness. It isn't intended to be a TW-90 or Reeder level grinder, but as an entry level or small backup grinder it looks quite promising.

2X42 works the same as 2X72. It is the 2" part that matters most. 3/4 HP won't hog down a bowie from .200" stock, but will quite easily handle smaller knives and handles.

From what I can get by using the 1/8" table as a measurement gauge, the frame is around 3/16" and the tool arms are 1"X1/4"
It appears to be an open frame DC motor, but the holes could be just for cooling. It would be good to check that out.

One thing to note is a replacement motor is only $70 less that the whole unit. I think if you eventually needed a new DC motor, Amazon would be your friend.
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Looking at the layered design, I'm thinking you could unbolt the plate that the tool arm locking knobs screw into, and replace those 3/16 or 1/4 inch spacers with 3/8 or even 1/2 inch. You'd have to get longer bolts and make new tool arms as well, but a conversion to 2x72 would require that anyway. You're not gonna be hogging out battle axes on this thing, but it looks like a potentially nice setup for a mobile sharpening rig for things like farmer's markets and such.

I've always been somewhat surprised that none of the larger tool manufacturers have come out with a budget priced 2x72, or any configuration of a tool arm style grinder. I know Olympic/Wilton/Jet had their square wheel grinder, but that was more of a commercial/industrial grade machine, and not really a tool arm machine. Craftsman and one or two others had their handful of 2" machines, but nothing like the Grizzly. Maybe we'll start seeing some of the others following suit.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
The more I look at the photos I think it is a TEFC motor.
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Yeah. That's why I was thinking use angle iron and just trim to fit in the bolsters, but the unbolt and use longer hardware is a better idea if it is applicable. I was also thinking in the future use servomotorkit.com for a 1.5hp that bolts right in. Also I the servo motors would have alot more control options.
 
Wow, for that price that would be a really handy intro grinder. Especially compared to something like the Kalamazoo 2x42
 
The biggest concern I have is the large drive wheel and high speed. Who needs almost 7,000 SFPM belt speed on a small grinder like that? Even the slow speed around 2,000 SFPM is too much for low speed. Changing the drive wheel for a smaller size - perhaps half size for 1,000 SFPM to 3500 SFPM would be much better, and give the grinder more power.

The specs and parts list both show the motor as "MOTOR 3/4HP 110V 1-PH" - I wonder if that means it's an AC motor? I would have thought DC as that's simpler to have speed control.
 
Mine showed up this afternoon. Rather sturdy for small grinder. Played just a bit with it after assembly. The platen is a weak point. I'm sure it will be improved once I install a piece of ceramic glass. Tracking/belt tension will be interesting to see how it fares once I start really grinding some steel. I added a small spacer to platen mount to assist belt placement during tracking. The motor plate states 110Vac RPM 100-5000, I'm sure Grizzly added the plate. I haven't disassembled controller but it sure looks like a TEFC.
One positive is woven conditioning belts fit, unlike some of the other 2X42 grinders.
Tomorrow I'll be mounting on work bench. I only have hardened blades right now, so I will wait until glass platen arrives as don't want to screw up my plunge grinds with the original platen.
 
Update: played/tested Grizzly grinder a bit more this morning. I’m changing my decision on type of motor. Now I think it is a stepper motor as Drew Riley stated earlier. The reason is as I was trying to load motor to see if I could stop grind, I noted that RPM display dropped about 1000RPM. I was running a 36 grit belt at max 5000 RPM, why just because I could. I had old garbage blade and was hogging away with full pressure via push stick. Noted motor speed slowing some but could not stop belt. Display dropped to about 4200 RPM, so there is a tachometer somewhere, most likely on motor, so I’d concluded most likely stepper motor. When running at 2500 minimal slowing noted.
Now when running at max and really pressuring blade, belt did move a bit with blade. Again at lower speed, max pressure didn’t note wandering of belt.
The real test will be performing initial bevel grind, but I’m not doing that until ceramic platen in place. Hopefully by end of week.
 
J Lensmire-
Before you add a glass platen, give the graphite-coated platen a chance. You may be pleasantly surprised.
The graphite lubricates the belt, minimizing heat build up. It also slightly cushions the platen-making grinds less harsh. There are other benefits- belts seem to last longer, etc.
 
The problem with the graphite-coated platen supplied is the edge is very “soft” and not sharp. It appears that it will be difficult to get good matching plunge grinds. I fought this with my original steel platen on my other 2x42. Once ceramic glass installed, my plunge grinds improved dramatically. I’ll give it a shot but glass is on order. I do have 2 additional platens on order, but there on back-order until March 2024
 
I just ordered this, it is my first grinder so I'm here to follow the thread and see what kind of mods you guys might be doing to the grinder. I like the sound of the glass platen, pleas let us know how you mount it up when you do and where you purchased it would be cool too.
 
As someone who has had a lot of tools and equipment:
Before you start modding something new to you, learn to use it as it comes. Then you will know what areas it can be improved on and where to leave well enough alone. Often the weaknesses are more your abilities than the tool's fault.

I saw suggestions of tearing it apart and rebuilding it to a larger size. This will usually end in failure or at least considerable extra expense.

This is a 3/4HP grinder. It looks great as an entry level grinder just as it comes. Don't expect it to do what a 2HP KMG/TW-90/Reeder/etc. will do as far as speed of removal. Take your time and learn to get the max out of it without stalling the motor or bending the arms.

I'll tell you a little tory:
When I was very young there was a country store nearby. There was an old man who sat outside carving chains from sticks of wood. He used an old small pocketknife. I was fascinated. I asked how he did it and he said, "Sharp knife and taking my time." I found an old knife in the barn and tried to start carving a chain. I got nowhere. I decided that if the knife was sharper I would carve better, so I used a whetstone to make it really sharp. It cut my fingers quite easily, but did nothing to make the stick of wood into a chain. Later in life I realized the trick was that the old man KNEW how to make the knife carve a chain. So, it wasn't the tool, but the skill of the user.
 
I bought one on a whim a week or two ago and tracking says it should be here Tuesday. Up until now I’ve been using a 1x42. I’ve been planning to upgrade to a 2x72 “eventually.” I have almost pulled the trigger on a 2x72 a few times but when it comes to spending money on my hobby, I’m pretty cheap. A wider belt and a VFD are what I was looking for l, so when I saw this one, I took the leap. I figured worst case scenario, if I don’t like it, I can probably sell it for about what I paid and put it towards a 2x72.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
As someone who has had a lot of tools and equipment:
Before you start modding something new to you, learn to use it as it comes. Then you will know what areas it can be improved on and where to leave well enough alone. Often the weaknesses are more your abilities than the tool's fault.

I saw suggestions of tearing it apart and rebuilding it to a larger size. This will usually end in failure or at least considerable extra expense.

This is a 3/4HP grinder. It looks great as an entry level grinder just as it comes. Don't expect it to do what a 2HP KMG/TW-90/Reeder/etc. will do as far as speed of removal. Take your time and learn to get the max out of it without stalling the motor or bending the arms.

I'll tell you a little tory:
When I was very young there was a country store nearby. There was an old man who sat outside carving chains from sticks of wood. He used an old small pocketknife. I was fascinated. I asked how he did it and he said, "Sharp knife and taking my time." I found an old knife in the barn and tried to start carving a chain. I got nowhere. I decided that if the knife was sharper I would carve better, so I used a whetstone to make it really sharp. It cut my fingers quite easily, but did nothing to make the stick of wood into a chain. Later in life I realized the trick was that the old man KNEW how to make the knife carve a chain. So, it wasn't the tool, but the skill of the user.
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Of course, you gotta put in the work to get the results.
 
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