New to hand sharpening

timsclips

timsclips

Joined
Nov 27, 2007
Messages
610
I had just recently purchased a combination coarse/fine sharpening stone from the local Ace hardware store here in town, that and a sharpening steel that came with a knife set that I already had I was able to get my kitchen knives sharp enough to cut paper ribbons. The first pocket knife I tried to sharpen, starting with my least valuable, is a pakistan made dual bladed jack knife that I had purchased some years ago and I have failed to get an edge. I have read about the "soft" steel used in these knives rolling instead of taking an edge and I was wondering if anyone has an idea how to get one reasonably sharp?
 
Use the coarse grit side of the stone and do not press hard, this will help to minimize burr formation. Once you've gotten it reasonably sharp on the coarse side move to the "fine" side of the stone, which with practice should give you a shaving (arm hair) edge.
 
Have you tried using your steel on it? If that doesn't work it's probably the knife. Try one of your kitchen knives on the new stones and see how that works. Remember this, BEFORE you progress to a second stone, you MUST raise a burr.

I don't know anything about those ACE stones either. Buying from places like that generally won't get you to very fine grits.

If you want more info (a lot more) check out the "In The Kitchen" section at KnifeForums. This is absolutely the best place on the planet for what you're looking for.
 
I have learned myself sharpening on a stone by practicing on printing paper. You can't really mess a blade up this way, and still get it sharper(if the steel isn't too hard, and the blade is already reasonable sharp if you begin). And when your sharpening angle is too high, you will see that because you will be cutting into the paper. So you need to practice keeping the blade at an angle that it almost cuts into the paper, but not totally. And when the blade has got a coating, you won't be scratching it when you sharpen on a wrong way.

There are probably better ways to learn this though, since I've inventend this method myself(after reading that some people use paper to polish/strop their edges).
You can't really use this method on a dull blade. And I don't know if paper will sharpen a premium steel(haven't got any premiums yet, but that will change in the near future). But when I use it on a steel like 420HC, it gets the edge sharper.
I hope this is of any help, but let's hear what the real professionals have to say.
(If you look for general sharpening instructions, try using the search funtion, as there are already many topics about that I think)
 
buckabee said:
There are probably better ways to learn this though, since I've inventend this method myself(after reading that some people use paper to polish/strop their edges).
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We never push the edge into paper as it's much too easy to cut it. When I want an insane edge I finish first with .5 micron chromium oxide on paper on glass followed by .3 micron honing film on glass, always pulling spine first.

My finest stone is a 10,000 grit Naniwa which creates a hell of an edge, but the addition of stropping makes an enormous difference. :p

Buzz
 
i dont know mcuh about sharpening stones, but i can tell you you probably wont egt an edge on the pakistan knife, ive got 2 pakistan knives, and they' re impossible to sharpen, the edge just sort of ''dents''
 
Like I stated I am new at this, I just realized that the stone had a different texture on opposite side. Both sides are the same color so it does not appear different but it definitely is coarser, I was trying to cut a bevel on the fine side of the stone. Once I used the coarse side of the stone to get a bevel going the rest was easier. The knife will now cut paper easily and that was all I was hoping for on this particular knife due to the steel used.
 
not being rude at all the stones are not very useful and the paki knife is a demo for what not to buy.

norton 1000-4000 combo waterstone is 'the' learners stone, IMO, and everybody has their own.. but it's good enough to teach you something, good enough not to ruin your knives, affordable for the years you'll use it, about 60$ ..

it'd be about as little as i'd recommend for even decent utility knives. *it ain't wrong* and many will buy it a a slight discount if you don't like it.

the coarse cheap rocks are very difficult to learn on. they grab too much, and you can't feel the 'bite' cleanly enough..

once you're totally aware of angles and bevels, they're ok for rough work on machetes and such, but until you have the muscle memory they slow down the march of progress (in skill)..

the rock you bought i use to clean other rocks with, or rust removal on flea market blades. it works great, i have several. USE WITH DILUTED DISH SOAP (10-1 water/soap mix works) .. which is a good standard lube that won't trash even good stones..

all in my opinion. it's a very FIRM opinion, though.. ;) i give away old knives sometimes..but i put paki stuff in the dumpster, after dark, and don't let anybody see me do it..
 
I've been trying to learn on the hones from my Lansky Standard kit. It shaves, but not nearly as well as those of other posters.
 
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