New to knife making and need some advice.

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EgoSumNemo

Joined
Jan 19, 2015
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I'm trying to build my very first combat/ survival knife. I have the design drawn out and I've decided on the specs. I'm basically looking to build a redesigned ESEE 5. I want to build a knife that has a blade length of 7 inches long and a 1/4 inch thick with a semi serrated edge and tipped pomel and a blade tip like the ESEE 5. Ideally I'd like to have the hardness at about 56-59 rc if possible and I'm looking at using either 5160(2001 Ford f150 lead springs) or something like 1090 or 1095. I plan on using this as my only large fixed blade and using it for everything to camp craft to self defense/ hand to hand. I'm going to be using it in conjunction with an ESEE Izula 2. My question is this: Depending on what steel I decide to use between the grades listed above, what is going to be the absolute best DIY heat treatment that can be done? I'd prefer an easy method but I have the time and patience to try more advanced methods if they'll yield better results while still being a "Do it yourself" project. I'd greatly appreciate any and all helpful advice that you all can give me and I thank you in advance. Please ask me any questions as I may have missed or left something out.
 
I would suggest 1084 ( which is generally around .90%) for ease of HT. It can be done with a simple forge or even an OA torch with a rosebud tip. Shaping that beast of a knife with hand tools will be a task.
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It doesn't really matter, but the Ford spring is probably something other than 5160. It could be many alloys, but they all HT about the same as 5160. People always say "all car springs are 5160", but they rarely are that exact alloy. I am pretty sure that your springs are RF-2K.1TS-M steel (Rusty Ford 2001 Truck Spring from Mexico)

Good luck.
 
Even "real" 5160 isn't necessarily 5160... a well-known steel vendor told me that the specs for it have gotten so wide over the years that it's hard to say exactly what's in any given batch.

1084 is inexpensive, reportedly fairly easy to get good and hard with a very basic HT set-up, and makes a really tough blade that holds an edge quite well. :thumbup:
 
Thanks for the heads up on lead springs and 5160! I'll definitely go with a "10" steel, especially since I can get it from the metal fab shop in town. Any recommendations on a good type of forge to build? I've heard of people using a brake drum and I think I read somewhere about a large diameter un galvanized pipe with a capped end being used. Also what would a "10" steel be considered, a water or an oil cooled steel? If oil, then what would be better, peanut or canola oil or maybe something like atf fluid?
 
Get the 1084 from Aldo or USA Knifemakers. It is a knife making formula made especially for us in special runs.

The fab shop in town will not likely have any 1084, anyway. It was discontinued years ago. You might find some 1080 or 1075. They will work.

You can make a brake drum forge, but it is a lot of work for just a single HT. A large torch will do fine. Filling our your real location info will make it possible for someone to offer some HT help. Sending the blade to a professional HTer is also a good option. It costs between $10 and 15 per blade, depending on who you use.

The HT for 1084 is super simple. In knife thicknesses, even the "water hardening" steels are normally quenched in fast oil. Canola oil is cheap and works well for a DYI HT. Get a couple gallons minimum for such a large of a blade.
 
Thanks a lot for the advice Stacy. I didn't consider getting the blade hted professionally. My friends gun shop is literally about 40yrds from Fiddleback forge on the same sidewalk. Do you know anything about them? Do you think they'd do a good ht on the blanks I make?
 
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