Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Along with Greg's questions, I'll offer the normal way a chainsaw damascus billet is done.
First ,make sure the chain is all steel.
1) Take a 6X2" bar of blade steel - 1084 is good.
2) Fold the chain back and forth along the bar, tack welding it here and there to make it stay in place. Grind any excess weld metal away if sticking out.
3) Repeat step #2 on the other side.
4) Wrap the billet with one layer of stainless HT foil. Just go around the four sides, no need to fold a seal or cover the ends. Tape it in place with some blue painter's tape.
5) Make a welding box from two pieces of light weight angle iron, or cut down some square tubing. It should fit the billet bar loosely, and be about 1" longer. Weld an end plug in one end, and trim the sides flush.
6) Spray the inside of the box with WD-40, and put the billet in the box. Fill with 1084 powder. Vibrate and tap the powder down until all voids are filled.
7) Weld an end plug in the box, compressing the powder tight with a big C-clamp. Weld a 3 foot long handle of 3/4" rebar on the end of the box.
8) Drill a 1/32"( or smaller) vent hole in one corner on the non-handle end of the box.
9) Bring the entire box up to welding heat and soak well to assure the box is at full weld heat all the way through.
10) Weld up, statrting at the end, and going toward the handle. A power hammer or press is the tool for this job.
11) Repeat as many times as needed until the box is flat and the billet feels and sounds solid. When you are sure the billet is fully welded, give it one more welding pass. Cool off and cut/grind the box apart. Take out the billet, grind clean, and draw out as desired.
First ,make sure the chain is all steel.
1) Take a 6X2" bar of blade steel - 1084 is good.
2) Fold the chain back and forth along the bar, tack welding it here and there to make it stay in place. Grind any excess weld metal away if sticking out.
3) Repeat step #2 on the other side.
4) Wrap the billet with one layer of stainless HT foil. Just go around the four sides, no need to fold a seal or cover the ends. Tape it in place with some blue painter's tape.
5) Make a welding box from two pieces of light weight angle iron, or cut down some square tubing. It should fit the billet bar loosely, and be about 1" longer. Weld an end plug in one end, and trim the sides flush.
6) Spray the inside of the box with WD-40, and put the billet in the box. Fill with 1084 powder. Vibrate and tap the powder down until all voids are filled.
7) Weld an end plug in the box, compressing the powder tight with a big C-clamp. Weld a 3 foot long handle of 3/4" rebar on the end of the box.
8) Drill a 1/32"( or smaller) vent hole in one corner on the non-handle end of the box.
9) Bring the entire box up to welding heat and soak well to assure the box is at full weld heat all the way through.
10) Weld up, statrting at the end, and going toward the handle. A power hammer or press is the tool for this job.
11) Repeat as many times as needed until the box is flat and the billet feels and sounds solid. When you are sure the billet is fully welded, give it one more welding pass. Cool off and cut/grind the box apart. Take out the billet, grind clean, and draw out as desired.
If not there are other smiths that might be willing to help you out.
